Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Eng. maintenence and performance questions

[raxley]

I recently noticed that my 94 Turbodiesel doesn't immediately start up when cranking. After I replaced the starter contacts, it would start before turning over 1 or 2 revolutions. This is all in weather 50 to 110 F. Now it takes maybe half a second to start. Also I've noticed some soot on the bumper, where I've only noticed it on the fender immediately above the exhaust.
I replaced the fuel filter-and filled the new filter with diesel. I pushed on the button near the fuel pump with that 10 mm nut loosened (getting the air out at the top of the filter), and afterwards the truck started after only a couple of tries. I didn't crack any injector lines, is this necessary? Is the 'prefilter' something I should look at/clean etc.? I noticed the 'word prefilter' in the Dodge manual, but was only concerned with the filter at the time. Although I noticed there was fine dust leaking from the old filter after it had drained (apparently it really needed the filter) it was caught by the filter, correct?
I also replaced the paper air filter and thought the hesitation while starting went away, but it only starts the same as before now. Sometimes it WILL start immediately without any cranking, but it's rare when before it always happened.
Another thing that has recently happened that I am sure was not there before. After I turn the truck off, I can smell diesel. I'm noticing it when I open my door, after turning the truck off. I look for diesel on the ground but don't see any.
After all of this, I have been trying to tell a difference in the power while driving. I think it has gone down a little, although anything past a point doesn't do anything. IOW, I don't go any faster or accelerate any quicker when I depress the pedal past a fairly high point. There is a lot of pedal left. I always drive with traffic (except while accelerating, it's fairly slow then) and easily cruise at 70+. I've never driven 80 mph, but it's been at 75+ and I'm pretty sure it would go to 85 maybe, I have never tried.
Any advice/information is appreciated. I'd like to 'stay on top' of any potential problems developing. It has about 210,000 to 215,000 miles, and I've had it since about 192,000 miles.

 

[BigPapa]

First thing I would suggest would be to replace the rubber part of the return line. It was discussed last month here:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/253087-fuel-pours-out?highlight=return

 

[raxley]

Thanks for the reply. I will be replacing that line as soon as I have a chance. I'm thinking to replace all the rubber parts of the lines, suction and pressure. I'll be checking intercooler hoses too. As far as I know, it hasn't had valves adjusted. How many tools do you need for that? I used to adjust my VW valves.

 

[BigPapa]

As far as I know, it hasn't had valves adjusted. How many tools do you need for that? I used to adjust my VW valves.

Tools and a couple of different methods can be found here:

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/valve_adj/12_valve.html

 

[raxley]

I wanted to see how much trouble it was to remove the filter housing, so I started to take it off but then realized I'd have to take the steel lines off too, and it's a mess (oily, dirty) and I didn't want to worry about dirt in filter assembly/fuel lines (and I'm busy today anyway) so I put the bolts back in. I ended up making the leak much worse. I can't quite see it, even with mirror and flashlight but there is no doubt about where it's coming from. It looks like it's coming from behind the filter housing and is dripping straight down between the prefilter/heater and lift pump.
So after I wash that side of the engine a little, and get some 3/8" hose, what is the best way to repair it? I've read the post linked above. Do you remove the filter assembly and are you then able to get to (it looks like) a place where it turns from a rubber line to a steel line? Is this line returning from the P7100 and changes from steel to rubber behind the filter housing?
The parts I need, I guess just some 3/8" fuel line and hose clamps?

 

[raxley]

I put a caliper on the metal lines, it looks like about 5/16"

 

[BigPapa]

I replaced and re-routed my return line, without removing anything but the overflow valve, with some hose, 4 clamps, and basic tools in @ 30 minutes and she's still going strong. I took the return line loose at the pump (where the overflow valve is) and broke it off at the bracket by pushing it back and forth, then cut it off square and cleaned it up. Then I flipped it over and slid the new hose on and put two clamps on it. Then got under the truck and reached up as far as I could and cut the rubber line. Then I disconnected the steel line at the quick connect fitting, down on the frame, cut the steel line close to where the original rubber hose is connected, cleaned off the burrs, slid the new hose on and double clamped that end. Then reconnect the steel lines and drive on. The return line is 5/16".

 

[GAmes]

You don't have to remove the housing, just the filter.

 

[SSage]

My idle rpm keeps dropping and power is down too, but I've narrowed the fuel smell down to the lift pump. I already replaced my firewall fuel lines. The first things to address are the fuel heater, the top rubber gasket along with the strainer and it's gasket. The little prefilter/preheater rubber hose elbow, the two rubber fuel hoses coming up the firewall and the lift pump itself. I would delete the fuel heater and eliminate that problem area, don't need a fuel heater anyway.

I've been chasing a fuel leak on mine for a while and after staring at the wet areas I finally realized the fuel was coming out of the bottom of the lift pump primer boot. So, I ordered the lift pump from Genoes. If you get all the parts around the lift pump it's about $120 to do it all and then that area is good to go. Then its the hard fuel lines, mine are still holding on my 95, so far I haven't needed to drop the fuel tank either, my fuel gauge still works too. My little prefilter 90 degree elbow hose was actually decent, looks like my main issue was the lift pump. But, when I pull the pump I'm going to put new gaskets in the prefilter thing while I'm there.

If you need new fuel lines just replace with diesel rated fuel hose, LarryB's has a convenient kit with the fittings. Not cheap though, but my local auto parts guy ain't cheap either. Thats good hose from LarryB's, I've got many years on a hose kit from them.