Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Engine Block Drain Plug

[RRFinch]

Time to change the antifreeze.

Found the drain plug for the radiator.

Where is the drain plug for the block?

Service manual has a misprint - no description and figure showing

location is blank.

 

[WOT]

There was a writeup on it a few issues ago. Seems to me that there is no drain plug on the block. When I did mine I just parked it on a slight hill so the back end up. It seemed like I got all the old stuff out. Also remember it taking a while to drain from the radiator plug.

 

[RRFinch]

Interesting! Because my service manual talked about one I never

thought about their NOT being one.

Considering the article in the last TDR issue about using Zerex Extended Life, getting all the old stuff out is apparently important.

The only other solution I see is to pull the lower radiator hose, and that is not something easy to do. The constant pressure band clamp is large and hard to get something onto. Even then

once you remove that the lower hose is always "stuck" to the fitting and you can't get any tools in there to work it loose.

*

I was only able to put in 4 gallons out of 6, so that is how much is in the engine block. If the advice is true that Zerex should not be diluted with the "green" stuff more than 10%, I may not realize the full benefits of the extened life.

*

Oh well. At least I have new stuff.

 

[EricBu12]

when doing a flush, use the "T" for a hose on the backflush "T" and rinse the old stuff out then use a air compressor on that same connection through the adapter for a hose to blow out.



The adapter has a small hole inside so you can use a airgun to blow out the heater core.



When doing this, I would pinch off the left then the right side of the "T" to force more cleaning out in either direction...

 

[RRFinch]

Originally posted by EricBu12

when doing a flush, use the "T" for a hose on the backflush "T" and rinse the old stuff out then use a air compressor on that same connection through the adapter for a hose to blow out.



The adapter has a small hole inside so you can use a airgun to blow out the heater core.



When doing this, I would pinch off the left then the right side of the "T" to force more cleaning out in either direction...

 

[RRFinch]

I have a T hose fitting installed in the heater hose line.

I was reluctant to use that because it would push all the "junk" back into the bottom of the radiator, or into the top of the radiator depending on which way you push water into the heater hose. The service manual talks about taking off the lower radiator hose to prevent all from going into radiator.

*

The air hose is a good idea, but unsure if that would get all the water out.

*

since I was wanting to use Zerex which is pre-diluted, I didn't want either the old anitfreeze, nor residual water from flush still in the engine block.

*

That is why i was wanting to find if engine drain block really exists.



Anybody know if their is one???

 

[DavidC]

There is no block drain. The best you can do is remove the hose from the water pump. Good luck, mine has been on since new in 99 and was not about to come off short of a razor blade. I did all my draining and flushing thru the petcock since I could not see cutting a perfectly good hose. If you use Fleetguard ES Compleat anti freeze it says it is compatible with all other anti freezes. So if you do not get everything out it is not a big deal.



Dave

 

[jwilliams3]

Does not exist.

 

[JSHAW]

I drained everything through the petcock with the truck running for 45 minutes. I left the heat on high and used undiluted antifreeze, this way I was sure to get the full three gallons in before topping off with water. It worked very well.



Jim Shaw

 

[illflem]

If you want to get out more than just simple draining, drain it at the petcock, refill with water, warm it up till the thermostat opens then drain it again. If you want to get anal do this several times.

Determine how much water is left in the engine after the last flush and add that amount of straight antifreeze, add the rest as a premix or 50/50.

 

[Proram]

Fluh

Just a little note:: when using air pressure to blow out the heater core be EXTREMELY careful, you can blow the heater core apart!

use a max of 15 psi. i'm just passing this along from experiance.



Just my . 05$ worth ( went up with the gas prices )





Scott

 

[EricBu12]

With the small hole of the hose adapter, and the large volume of space it is not much concern on getting more than 15 psi unless you put the Air hose right in the heater hose opening then it would... .

 

[socal_rattler]

If you follow the instructions on this page:

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/cooling-sys/antifreeze.htm



You will get almost everything out.

 

[tractorface]

just a thought

I have not tried this yet, but removing the block heater may help. It is not a bad idea to clean the crap off the heater anyway (saves on the Lectric bill). Not sure if its low enough to get all the A/freeze out but it should get you close.

 

[Loren]

RR,



If you have been able to remove only about four gallons of coolant, I would strongly recommend removing the lower radiator hose as suggested in issue 35, pages 76-81. You will really want the hose clamp pliers from NAPA or other tool supplier to do this job.



The way I remove these hoses is not easy, but I've never had to cut one off yet. Here's how I do it:



Remove the clamp. Slide a screwdriver or other similar tool under the hose to create a channel. Spray Armor All, or similar lubricant into the channel along the screwdriver. (I suspect that you could use penetrating oil, but I try to keep petroleum products away from rubber. )



Remove the screwdriver, allowing the lubricant to be compressed by the hose against the fitting. Wiggle the hose back and forth as much as possible, using your hand, large pliers, or any other suitable tool. Repeat the application of lubricant if necessary.



Once the hose will rotate on the fitting, it's ready to come off.



An alternative method that I've used as well is to squirt the lubricant into the hose as above and then push against the end of the hose. I use a large screwdriver or (gasp!) an actual pry bar to pry against the hose.



Be careful what you pry against.



Pulling on the hose won't work as well, because pulling against a hose that's stuck will just cause it to shrink in diameter. Pushing against it has the opposite effect.



Removing the radiator hose will allow full flow of coolant from the engine and attaching a hose at the heater fitting, as described in issue 35, allows you to flush the system very well.



I have found that it doesn't matter if you park the truck downhill or not. I get about the same amount of coolant out when the truck is level.



I like illflem's advice regarding successive changes, but if you are REALLY anal about it, you will use distilled water for the process.



If you do use compressed air, be careful. The system is meant to hold the pressure on the cap, about 16 psi, not the 100 psi that is commonly available from a compressor.



Loren