Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Engine brake questions?

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission front axle re-do...couple questions

Status
Not open for further replies.
What does a engine brake do to the auto transmission that is bad? They would void your warranty if you put one on. I have done 6 brake jobs on the front in 125,000 and may be 4 in the rear. One original rotor that is going to be replaced next. Who makes them besides Banks? Any recommendations and approximate cost to buy and install? Thanks!
 
I believe the problem is the electronics in keeping the torque converter locked. An unlocked torque converter might generate too much heat. I'm not the expert here. I'm sure others will provide a better explanation.



Wiredawg
 
You'll need a controller with the brake to lock up the convertor and raise the line pressure, so the clutches don't slip.

The harder you push down on the go pedal, the higher the pressure. With your foot off of the pedal, the pressure is really low. Things slip and burn up over time.

Jacobs

PacBrake

BD-Power

Some have the controllers available to go with the brake as an option.
 
Jacobs makes the factory recommended one for your 2001, but the factory only recommended them for sticks due to the reasons listed above. The braking effect heats up the auto trannys too much because the torque converter doesn't lock up with the brake. If memory serves, I read that there are some nylon (plastic) parts inside the transmission that can't take the extra heat and may start to melt under extreme circumstances.
 
Dodge didn't have an adequate thrust washer in the automatic trans to dissipate the force an e-brake placed on it.
 
Well I think the issue goes deeper than that. When you put a controller in to handle torque converter lockup you are doing lock to lock shifts and the whole transmission needs to be upgraded to do the job correctly. Which includes increased line pressure to hold the clutches in the TC from slipping. You want at least billet input and 2nd gear cage. DTT gives you second gear lockup for those really steep hills.



Call Bill at DTT and he will explain the whole thing to you.



BTW, a good transmission is equal to one really good power upgrade! You will not believe the way it puts the power to the ground.



SNOKING
 
I can't speak for the thrust washer weakness. But the pressure thing is true. Most auto's are not designed for having a load on them at low to zero throttle. The line pressure is too low to hold the load. The cure for that is something like the BD pressure loc with the towloc or similar controller. It overides the throttle pressure and raises the line pressure in the trans.

Some transmissions can do this through electronics, our older dodges require linkage to do this. I don't know what DTT or the other big name builders do to combat this. I'm sure there is something to cure it.

As for the billet shaft, it's not a must, but it is recommended if you are going to be doing locked shifts. I believe some of the controllers do downshift locked to locked and that can be pretty hard on things.

If someone wants to link or provide information about the thrust washer issue, I'm all ears, as I have rebuilt my own transmission once and will probably be doing another one here soon.
 
diesel dog, that's where I ended up too and I've got a Goerend transmission that could handle the exhaust brake, I just couldn't justify the cost



what are you pulling? does it have trailer brakes? I pull hard and heavy but get longer life than you do, I alo put on the really good pads, just a thought
 
I am a strong believer and advocate of exhaust brakes in our Rams. My first one, an '01 HO/6spd had a Jacobs/MOPAR brake installed by the dealer before I took delivery. I ordered the '06 48RE with a factory Jacobs/MOPAR brake but it came in the box on the backseat floor and was installed by my own mechanic. My current one, an '08 ISB6. 7 has the sliding nozzle turbo that provides exhaust braking.

EBs certainly save on brake pad replacements but IMO the larger advantage is the added control, safety, comfort and driving pleasure that the exhaust brake provides. It is a great feeling to top a long steep grade with a heavy trailer behind and simply shift down a gear and activate the brake and let it rumble all the way down without ever touching the brake pedal.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top