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Archived Engine Died, will not restart

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Archived No start problem

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I have a 2002 2500 4x4 6spd. On Friday I was on my way home from a trip at 75 mph in the left lane and the engine started to die like it was running out of fuel. I got to the shoulder and it went dead before I could stop. When switching lanes I could see some gray smoke from the exhaust. I thought that I might have run out of fuel but the low fuel chime had just come 5 miles earlier and the gauge still read 1/8 tank. I have taken it all the way to 0 and still had 4 gal in it when I filled up. It was towed to the local dealer and I put 5 gal in the tank, the gauge wnt to 1/4 tank, before I cranked it. I can hear the fuel lift pump if I crank and then leave the key on the On position. I loosened the banjo bolt on the supply line to the injector pump and got no air bubbles just fuel. Torqued bolt back to 18 ft-lb spec. The check engine light does not come on. When I crank I get no hint that even one cyl. is firing off. No smoke at all from the tail pipe. I have a turbo saver from Geno's and thought that maybe it went bad and cut the run signal to the engine just like if the security switch is on. I took the turbo saver out and hooked up the ignition wiring back to stock. No difference. Any ideas? The dealer has not even looked at it yet because they only have two diesel guys one is on vacation and the other is working on a gasser. It kills me to pay for a rental car for 3 days before the dealer even looks at it. In addition I broke down 1. 5 hours from home.
 
I know you don't won't to here it but it might the VP44 (injection pump):{ or ECM. Thats all that I can think of that would cause it.
 
nmurray,

Now that you know there is fuel going to injector pump check to see if fuel is reaching injectors by unloosening the nut to the injectors ( the same way you did injector pump banjo bolt, just a little and when/if you see fuel tighten them-do one at a time).



If it is not fuel at has to be electrical. (ECM,Crank position sensor... wires/connections/connectors)
 
Well, I am going to crack the injector lines just to be sure. I am also going to pull an oil sample. At least it is still under warranty. If it is the VP44 at least it shot craps before I installed my fuel pressure gauge so that the dealer can not blame me. I still for some reason think I ran out of fuel, it sputtered like it did but this has to be the hardest diesel I ever worked on to prime, normally you get at least some white smoke and a cyl. to partially hit while cranking a engine that has lost prime, I get nothing. If I did run out of fuel and torch the pump it is still Dodge's problem because the gauge was still reading 1/8 tank. I will let everyone know what the problem was/is.



Thanks, Neil
 
I own a 12 valver so my idea might not be an idea! On my fuel lift pump there is a manual hand pump that you can pump to help restore the prime to the injection pump. After I replaced my leaking rubber fuel lines it took alot to get it started again. By the way, I'm on my third fuel sender and only has 62k on my '96 truck due to fuel sender failures. Sometimes the sender is wrong and you could have more or less diesel than you think. Until I got fuel again into the system, my truck had no smoke or fire until I pumped the crap out of it. You can feel the fuel in the hand pump when it gets pressured up. Let us know what you find. Herb:cool:
 
Well I chickened out. I was going to crack the injector lines but figured I would not touch anything else until the dealer had a look. In addition I did not have the correct adaptor to my torque wrench to torque the lines back to the 28 ft-lb spec. I should know what is up by the end of the day. I wish I had a hand pump like an old 12 valver. I think every diesel should have a hand priming pump, but the bean counters always ax stuff "unecessary" stuff to cut costs. Yes the pumps are a pain to use but it is better for your engine than cranking the %$#% out of it.



Thanks
 
Now I know!

I'm surprised they would take something so useful off the pump. Money talks and suckers walk they say. Your not the sucker, just the walker because they saved a dollar. It will cost them more if this is warranty work. Good luck, Herb:{
 
It is possible for you to somewhat run out of fuel even with a few gallons left.

The reason that this is possible is that when you run it that low you stand a good chance if there is any water in the fuel to take that water in, and in that case it will act just like you ran out of fuel. I had this happen to a ford diesel that I used to own before I was converted to a REAL diesel. So for future use, I recomend not running it below a 1/4 of a tank.

Jim Aughenbaugh

98. 5 3500 cab/chassis Edge EZ, Straight Pipe, K&N, 100 h. p. injectors
 
When the truck was towed to the dealer I did pull some fuel out of the drain on the fuel filter. I performed the quick "spoon test". put some of the sample fuel in a metal spoon and hold a lighter under it. If it sizzles like bacon you have water in the fuel. The same test works for engine and axle oil. I have run to E before and still had over 4 gal. in the tank. I run from NJ (cheap fuel, station moves large quantities and all the local truckers fill there)to VA ($0. 20 more per gal. ) so I like to make it back to NJ without refuelling. If I have more than 4 gal of water in the tank somebody must be putting it in.



Well the dealer got the truck started, they bled the fuel lines at the head, and said the truck was ready to go. They also said they hooked the computer up and there are no codes and the gauge "checked out OK". So they wanted me to pay them $79. 00 and they would not fix the gauge. I went down there and yelled at them drained the fuel tank myself and showed the service manager that the gauge read 1/8. Now they are pulling the tank to look at the fuel sending unit. I can not believe that they trust a "computer" over common sense. Tank is dry gauge reads 1/8, obviously something is wrong.
 
Neil,



The fuel gauge sending unit in the tank has been a PITA since '94 at least. I'm surprised that your dealer doesn't know that. The original in my truck was a joke. Out of fuel according to the gauge for 50 miles once on a remote road in AZ and when I filled up it only took 28 gallons. The next one was crazy. Just a big guess about how much fuel in the tank. The one I have had for the last 100K miles is right on. Hard to believe.
 
Well I just got off the phone with the dealer again, apparently they finally talked to the Chrysler hotline and there have been problems with the fuel level indicators, so much in fact that the part is back ordered with out any guess of when they will be available. So $160. 00 in rental car costs and countless hours of arguing with the dealer, the truck runs but the problem was not fixed.



I guess I will be keeping track of miles and estimate on the safe side that I get 16 mpg when the worst I have ever had was 17. In addition I will use 30 gal. as the tank capacity so I can go 480 miles safely.



What a waste of my time. Thanks for all of the help.
 
i always use my mileage to keep check on my fuel level. i can go 550 miles and have 3 to 5 gallons left. i get 18 mpg, but dont like to let the fuel get that low
 
fuel guage out of wack??

when mine is on '"e" I have 10 to 12 gal's . . when it's on a quarter below it had 3 gal's or so! it's out of wack but I like it better than being out of wack the other way. I'v been out of fuel before so I Know how mine work's
 
nmurray. . might I suggest a Transfer Flow bed tank... . that way you could go a ton of miles and get to the fuel stop when you wanted...

with mine I go 1400 +/- a few or to the fuel station on my schedule v/s a damn tank gauge and I have a 54 gal fuel/tool combo.
 
The fuel sender on my '98 12V acted real strange for six months or so. 150 miles and it showed 1/2 tank. 300 miles and it showed E. But I tended to ignore it and go by the trip odometer. Then, mircaculously, it fixed itself. It's now back to its original deal. 300-350 miles is a half tank, 540 miles is 1/8-E. I usually refuel, when on the road, at 500-550 miles; then the tank only takes 30-32 gallons.

To actually need to put 35 gallons in the tank, I have to drive at least 600 miles.

Bottom line is that if you track your fuel economy, you can drive by the trip odometer. And if you are patient, maybe the fuel sender will correct itself. :)

Fest3er
 
Fuel gauge issues

Fuel gauge accuracy has been a perennial problem with these trucks. When my truck got just past the 3/36 bumper to bumper warranty, my gauge went wacky. You could fill the tank to the brim, the needle would be above the full mark, then drive ten miles and it would go to empty. I had rodeo friends who ran a whole fleet of CTD's and they also had the same problem. Dodge didn't want to do a recall, so they pretty much ignored the problem and left it up to the owners to pay the freight if beyond warranty. I carefully and methodically called them daily and raised hell until they got tired of hearing from me. They told me to take it to my dealer and something would be "worked out". Took it to my dealer, and Dodge told the dealer that they would pay half of the price of the part (sending unit). My dealer wrangled with them until Dodge agreed to pay for the part and half the labor. So, in the end, I only spent about $40 for the repair. Sometimes it pays to be a persistent PITA.



By the way, my 5 Star Dealer, Corigliano Motors, Boonton, NJ has been first rate since I purchased my truck there in 1996. They really work for their customers on warranty issues and get you up and running in a hurry. And their sales department is low pressure and great to deal with. I'll buy all my subsequent CTD's there.
 
Where the heck is Corigliano Motors in Boonton, NJ. I live in Pennington, NJ right up Rt. 31 from Ewing. I have been trying to find a good dealer Flemington is a waste of time and Greenfield is good but you can not make an appointment. What is up with that?
 
Corigliano Motors is on Mountain Lakes Road in Boonton, easy to get to from 287... ... about a mile after passing the I-80 ramps, the next exit is for Mountain Lakes Road, take that exit, turn left at the end of the ramp, and go to the first traffic light. They're across the street on the right hand corner. They work by appointment, and they stay busy because they're good. Ask for Ray in the service department... . he's great. Phone is 973-334-3300.
 
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