Engine Oil leak

[tomblue01]

"The o-ring has plenty of resistance to hold it in."
+1

When timing the engine using the pin, I remove the o-ring altogether. After everything's done, the o-ring gets reinstalled - no retainer washer.

 

[tomblue01]

"... and find a way to make one with metal... any idea is welcome."
I recommend a new plastic one. Should you ever forget to remove it, nothing bad will happen to your gears when the plastic one shears off.

 

[FHerault]

There isn't any need for the cam timing pin. It is difficult to use and is sometimes the cause of oil leaks. When I assembled my engine I RTVd it into place. Find engine TDC using the procedure in the FSM for installing a new pin. That procedure is commonly called the drop valve method. Page 9-189 in the '97 manual.

I'm there finding TDC with that method but I'm confused. In the manual, they tell to use the intake valve but on fig.63 and 64 they show the exhaust valve...

 

[GAmes]

It doesn't matter. Either valve will work.

 

[FHerault]

It doesn't matter. Either valve will work.

I was thinking so, but the manual seems a bit weird to me ...
In the same idea, when you have to turn the engine clockwise for the second mark, I think you can not do so if you have tightened the adjusting screw for the valve five turns. Otherwise the valve spring is completely compressed so you have to ''reset'' the valve after the first marking procedure. I don't know if I am clear with that... sorry.
Tomorrow, if the weather is good, I will install the pump and put a plug in the timing pin hole.

 

[GAmes]

The number of turns on the adjustment screw varies by engine. I only have to drop mine two turns for piston contact. The fewer the better IMO because it puts the two lines closer together which makes finding the center easier. After the first mark I back the adjustment screw to zero, rotate the engine past TDC, then turn the screw back in two turns followed by reversing the engine rotation until the piston touches the valve again. The last time I did the procedure I didn't put a mark on the damper, I used a piece of masking tape on the serp belt. Much easier to access and measure. I don't recall what I used as the reference point.

 

[FHerault]

I took my time but the truck is running now and starts better than ever, and no more leaky tappet cover. I've adjusted the valves since I had to replace the valve cover gaskets and it was a good thing. I replaced the serpentine belt too and thought I should preventively replace the water pump but it was enough for that time. Thanks for your advices !

 

[FHerault]

Since my last post I've used the truck as a daily to go to work and I noticed some things that I dislike :
- the tappett cover is not leaking anymore but I do have an other bad oil leak (my hand palm every morning on the driveway...). It seems to leak by the little cover at the front of the transmission when running and 5 minutes or so after shut off. Main seal ?
- I noticed some smoke coming out the breather tube. If I open the oil filler cap, it's smoking there, and it stops smoking at the breather tube. Excessive blowby ?
I've adjusted my valves and I don't remember seing so much blowby before the adjustment... I know that some blowby is normal but it seems to have much more since I've done this job...
- I can see a litle leak at my number 5 injector. I checked the fitting on top but it does not seem to seal well since tightening it has no effect.
- My engine seems to operate at higher temps, between 194 and 210 degF. I did not notice any change in coolant level. My engine does not smoke (black, white or blue !) Could it be a little lean on fuel ?

Opinions welcomed

 

[GAmes]

You could have a front crank seal leaking. They do wear out.
Smoke isn't necessarily blowby. Air rushing out the vent tube is blowby.
Try backing the fitting nut off, cleaning both surfaces completely and re-tighten.
Only gas engines run lean. Diesels go from low air/fuel mixture to higher air/fuel mixture with every application of the go pedal.

 

[FHerault]

When I said lean, I wanted to refer to the star wheel adjustment. Since I have no smoke at all, even if I step briefly on the go pedal in neutral, I'm wandering if I could turn the starwheel up a few clicks to give a little more fuel at low rpm before boost. Perhaps ''lean'' is not the good word, but since it takes me sometimes 10 minutes to write 3 lines, it is the one that came to my mind first ;-)

 

[GAmes]

Your question was a follow on to the engine running at higher temps. In gas burning airplanes too lean of mixture will cause the engine to run hotter IIRC. Yes, if you roll the starwheel toward the front of the engine you will get a little more pre-boost fuel.

 

[JMcCoy]

I would start with the basics first. (K.I.S.S.) I have a bad habit of going straight to the worse-case- scenario. I would hate to pull the transmission just to find out the rear valve cover was leaking. Try to find exactly where the leak is coming from. Maybe some garbage got pinched in the rear valve cover seal.

I would pop the valve covers off one at a time to make sure your valve seals haven't popped up. I don't know if you would get any blow-by at idle (zero boost), but worth looking at while in there.

As for running hot, I would check your boost line going to the turbo. I would also check your fuel return line/fuel overflow valve before adjusting your star wheel, plate, or smoke screw. Fuel pressure gauge would be best.

Just for clarification, I was not calling you stupid (K.I.S.S.). It was more of a reference to me. Lol!

Hope you get it fingered out.

 

[FHerault]

I've replaced the valve cover gaskets when I adjusted the valves because some of the old ones were in bad shape. I can not see any oil leak behind the rear cover. I've checked with a mirror and put my fingers, no oil there. The leak seems to be worst every day, I have to find out because I hate that.The front cover seems to leak a little bit because it's oily around it but the main drops come at the front of the trans. It's about 1 drop every second at idle...

 

[JMcCoy]

The only thing I can think of is the on the injection pump and . I would also check the following:
Fuel sending unit (easy to break. I know)
Fuel plate screws (mine caused same leak)
Injection pump (oil pressure and return lines)
Vacuum pump (oil pressure and return lines)
Lift pump gasket.

I had to use the UV additive and black light to find where my leakS came from.
I hope it's one of the above. Keep is posted.

 

[Signal73]

Oil dripping off the trans plate it could be the rear main seal or cam plug. Both would require trans removal. It’s a collection point for oil leaks however, since the motor tilts towards the rear of the truck. I’d be darn sure it wasn’t something else before dropping the trans.

 

[FHerault]

I've re-checked the rear valve cover and no leak. I might have a leak at the front gear cover because it's oily under the front of the engine, on the trans hoses and the cross member (under the pan). I will take more time this week-end to crawl under to have a look at the main seal and cam plug...

 

[Signal73]

I've re-checked the rear valve cover and no leak. I might have a leak at the front gear cover because it's oily under the front of the engine, on the trans hoses and the cross member (under the pan). I will take more time this week-end to crawl under to have a look at the main seal and cam plug...

“- the tappett cover is not leaking anymore but I do have an other bad oil leak (my hand palm every morning on the driveway...). It seems to leak by the little cover at the front of the transmission when running and 5 minutes or so after shut off. Main seal ?“


So no leak at the rear?

 

[FHerault]

There is too much oil everywhere. I have to pressure wash it again and let it idling for a while to see if the main seal is leaking. I hope this week-end because too much work until friday. I'll keep it posted. Thanks !

 

[BigPapa]

I thought I had a bad front crank seal. Oil everywhere. I had been checking the gear cover bolts and they were good. But, when I pulled the damper off, the front cover bolts behind it weren’t even finger tight. I’d say that was my leak, but I replaced the seal and resealed the cover anyway. All dry now. Pull the damper and check those bolts first.