Engine running while fueling

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New member and first time poster. Awsome site and am glad to be a part of it. Next week I will be taking my new truck on a long trip to the river. I will be towing a 5000 pound boat. The owners manual states I should wait as long as five minutes before shutting the engine down. I realize that this is done to cool the turbo but I do not want to just sit in the cab for five minutes before I get out to fuel. I'm sure the rest of my buddies in our "convoy" won't think too highly of me slowing us down. Is it O. K. to let the engine idle while fueling knowing that I'm going to jump right back on the freeway?
Sorry for the long post but I want to know and nothing came up when I used the search engine.


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Y21 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4, LWB, Regular Cab ST, 24V Cummins, Auto, 4. 10 LSD, Camper Package, Trailer Package, 100% Stock

 

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Welcome to the TDR BadArseRam!

Are you Porky's next door neighbor? How big could Hemet really be? #ad

 

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Hello BadArseRam,
If you haven't already, you'll want to get an EGT (exhaust gas temp) gauge, sometimes called a pyrometer, and probably a boost gauge. With the pyro, you'll KNOW what the temp in your turbo is, and probably be able to shut off a lot sooner than 5 min if you've coasted down an offramp or idled before pulling into the fuel station.



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99 3500 Reg Cab, Red, 2wd, 5spd, 4:10
(2) 87 GN's (Also turbo 6's)

 

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Welcome B. A. R. , there will be no damage to your engine to leave it running while fueling, the station attendent may not like it. Just don't leave it sitting there running while you eat lunch and take a nap! #ad

Regards Pete


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99'3500,quad cab,4X4,a/t
3:54,all the right packages!PROPER VALVEMENT

 

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Welcome aboard dude. Personaly I pull in the fuel station, leave it running, fill it up, stop the pump, turn off the moter and lock the truck before going inside to pay.

I have an EGT gauge, and wait until I see 200 deg before shutting down. Like another guy said, just by slowing down and coasting before stoping will drop the temp quite a bit. I don't think I have ever had to set for more then a minute or so to see 200 on the EGT. Except for towing my RV to the campground that is on top of the mountain, Once I get there, it takes more like 5 min to bring the temps down.

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• 98 ISB,QC,5spd,2wd,3:54lsd.
• 2000 Terry 305G 5th wheel

 

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For about 19 yrs. I've been leaving my truck idle while I fuel... use my spare key in my console to lock the door while I go pay for the fuel, leaving the truck running. Works for me.

 

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I do the same, leave it running, and lock it when I go in to pay. Most of the time I fuel up where you can pay at the pump. The main concern is to remember the parking brake #ad


Talking about EGTs, I've been wondering if what the EGT gauge says is more representive of actual turbo temp or the temp of the exhaust airstream. After I get my EGTS up to say 1000, it will drop straight down to 300 by the time I've coasted down to 30-40mph (unloaded). I think the turbo would remain at a little higher temp than the EGT reading until there is time to carry off the excess heat. I always let it idle a minute or so after it drops to 300, but it doesn't go under 275. These are all pre-turbo readings.

Vaughn

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2001 Ram 2500 QC SWB 2wd, Patriot Blue/Driftwood, HO Cummins & 6-speed, 3. 54LSD, Cab & Fog lamps, Camper & Tow Pkg.
BOMBings: K&N RE0880, straight piped, debadged body.
Performance: 245rwHP on BD Dyno. 18/22 mpg city/hiway
6595 miles (5/22/00)

 

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Vaughn, that's why I like having my EGT probe in the elbow downstream from the turbo. I'd really like to have 2 pyrometers, one in the manifold for measuring actual EGT's and the one in the elbow to indicate when it's safe to shut 'er down. The whole idea of a safe shut down temperature is to keep the engine oil from baking on the turbo bearings. If this happens, it will form a diamond-hard "coke" form of carbon. The next time the engine is started, the coke will flake off and circulate through the engine. Imagine what little bits of industrial diamonds can do to bearing surfaces. Waiting a few minutes before shutting down can make a big difference in how long your engine will last.
Hope this info helps new owners.
Andy

 

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Andy, that is EXACTLY one of the two reasons I wanted to place my pyrometer thermocouple post tutbo. This is the ONLY location to accurately convey data pertaining to turbo temp. for the basis of shut down. Like you, I am also considering the addition of a second pyrometer that would have its thermocouple installed pre turbo. Maybe later this summer.

 

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Welcome to the TDR and to the ST owners club BadArseRam #ad


Im less experienced than the other members that have replied . . but from my experience . . concur.

A service station stop is ok to leave running. I set the break . . take my spare key . . and lock it up.

But there are a few things to consider. There are areas of the country where leaving a unattended vehicle running is a ordinance violation. Just be mindful of that.

Extended idleing isn't recommended . . especially in cooler climates. Idleing can cause the cylinder walls to cool too much . . and unburned diesel gets past the rings and causes lubrication problems. Raising the rpm's above 1k is the recomendation for extended idleing applications. I learned this from reading the numerous posts on this subject Sounded like I knew what I was talking about huh? #ad


A lot of good reading in the posts . . take your time and start reading #ad


Again . . Welcome!
Michael


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00 Driftwood 2500 ST QC ISB LB 5spd 3:54 LSD Tow & Camper Groups

my photos

 

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On every trip I've taken or every time I go to the fueling station... by the time I idle down the off ramp,sit and wait for a light to turn green,then proceed a block or two to the station,I'm down to 240-250deg pre turbo.
I just don't see the point in letting it run while at the pump. By the time you got there it's already had more than a few minutes to cool off... unless there's diesel pumps sitting on the side of the hiway somewhere that I missed? #ad


-Mike

 

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Post turbo reading: I have to wait (or fuel while running, illeagle in WI, to let the turbo temps get to 300 post turbo. Especially when towing my snowmobile trailer (its cold then).
One thing that really help suck the heat out is coasting down the ramp with the TC locked and the throttle off.
Is it possible to run two EGT probs to one gauge with a switch?

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'94 3500 4x4, 196,000 miles, Auto w/shift kit,3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro gauges inplace of cupholder & Amsoil Bumper to Bumper. NRA member.

 

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I most always leave mine idleing. It's HOT around here, and I like to leave the AC running, besides my little dog doesn't like getting too warm #ad
#ad
Confession, I'm the world's worst long idler. Like I said, it's hot around here, in the summer usually always over 100* and I leave the AC on for the little dog when I'm traveling and stop somewhere, yes even when I'm eating in the restaurant #ad


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95 2500 SLT Laramie 3. 54, automatic,Herculiner bed liner, JVC cd out of factory infinity system, southwest grill gaurd (a favorite amongst the deer population), K&N, AFC adjusted, dual straight exhaust out of "gutless" cat, Geno's dual EGT/boost gauge, TST #6 plate slid all the way forward, AFC housing slid all the way forward, silencer ring removed
"Layin' the 'SMOKEDOWN' on their ROOdy Poo CANDY GASSERS!"

 

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I've found that there is a huge difference between pre and post-turbo temps at shutdown. I have an egt gauge hooked up to a pyro pre-turbo and added a pyro post-turbo that is hooked up to an ISSpro turbo-temp monitor. What it does is it monitors the pyro which is mounted post turbo and if it's above 300 degrees (this point is settable) it outputs 12v and backfeeds the ignition to keep the engine running even if the key is removed. So I can pull into the gas station (or whatever) and set the brake, put the truck in neutral, turn off the ignition, remove the key, lock the doors and walk away, the truck idles until it's below 300 degrees.

Now what shocked me was that when I first hooked it up I had my gauge attached to the post turbo pyro as well (to set the temp). I was amazed how often I was shutting my truck off WAY before the turbo was cooled off going by my pre-turbo gauge. I like having the gauge pre-turbo for performance reasons but for shutdown the post-turbo is a must, IMO. What I found is that some of the stuff people say to cool the turbo like decelerating in gear as long as possible (which I did), that look like they are cooling the turbo faster actually arent. There are many times that my pre-turbo egt gauge will read below 300 for 3-4 minutes before the engine shuts off (hence below 300 after turbo).

I think I have the best of both world's, pre-turbo pyro with a gauge to watch for high egt's in the best place, and a computer making sure my engine doesn't shut down until after turbo get's below 300 (I have an emergency kill switch right behind the ignition key too). See my post https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum3/HTML/000507.html regarding the installation of the turbo temp monitor. Total cost for it was $180 and it's the most convenient thing I have on my truck.

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-Steve St. Laurent - President of the Great Lakes TDR, Chapter Forums Moderator
'98 Quad Cab Long Bed (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4. 10 LSD, Prime-loc remote fuel filter, boost & pyro gauges, TST Powermax, muffler eliminator, 5" chrome tip, BD Exhaust Brake, Isspro turbo temp monitor, Permatech spray in liner, Grizzly stainless nerf bars, Stull SS grill & bumper inserts, Front Draw-Tite receiver, BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's

[This message has been edited by Steve St. Laurent (edited 06-18-2000). ]

 

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I like to let mine idle while fueling, especially if I come in hot off the Pike. I have an automatic, so I do this in "N", not Park. While the engine & turbo are cooling down, "N" is circulating transmission fluid through the cooler & filter. If it's in Park, little of no fluid is moving, just laying in the pan. (don't forget to set the park brake)... . DDG

 

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Folks- I have read with interest the comments about using EGT as a means for determining Turbo temperature, and offer the following caution. The mass of the EGT probe is much much less that that of the turbo. Although I have no data I am sure the thermal time constant of the sensor is on the order of seconds while that of the turbo is minutes. This means the EGT will quickly reflect the temperature of the exhaust gas during cool down while the temperature of the turbo will take much longer to stabalize back down to the cooler exhaust gas . I believe this to be independent of EGT probe location. HTH

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1995 2500 Auto 4X4 Ext Cab, Sun Coast torque converter, Trans Go shift kit,Jacobs E brake,BD Auto Lok,Prime Lok fuel filter relocate, Boost/EGT and transmission fluid temp gauges, and Mag-Hytec transmission pan/rear end covers

 

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I let mine idle while fueling also. I just like listening to it rattle and people in cars and gassers shakin' their heads!

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99 2500 4x4,quad cab,lwb,black sport,4. 10lsd,5-speed,everything but leather,5" Tuff Country suspension lift chromed,3"body lift,38"Ground Hawg radials,16. 5x12 American Eagle wheels,K&N. VA box
2000 24' Weekend Warrior
97 Yamaha Banshee

 

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After receiving a suggestion from Andy P. to read this post and add some input, I took my stock 98. 5 4x4 out for a ride. I don't have any EGT gauges yet, so I use a hand held infrared heat sensing gun.

I went up route 97 from the Columbia River up to the top of the grade towards Goldendale, WA. About a 2,200 ft. elevation rise, I think. The last part is about 3 to 4 miles of 5 to 7% grade. I ran in 5 th. gear at 60 to 65 mph until just before I turned off at the top onto a side road. I had to sort of idle at 25 mph for about 1/4 mile until I found a place to get off of the pavement.

There was about a 25 mph wind blowing at 73 degrees. I popped the hood and these are the readings I recorded.

The first set is right away. The second set is about 2 minutes later.

Exhaust Manifold Flange: 562 346
Turbo Housing: 560 370
Exh. Brake Elbow: 301 257
Cylinder #1 Outlet: 268 212
Cylinder #2 Outlet: 311
Cylinder #3 Outlet: 356
Cylinder #4 Outlet: 382 270
Cylinder #5 Outlet: 415 289
Cylinder #6 Outlet: 368
Exh. Brake Actuator Can: 97

The 20 mph wind blowing through the engine compartment probably cooled things down a little faster than normal.

I periodically check the Exh. Brake Actuator can just to see how hot it is back there behind #6 cylinder. When its about 90 degrees outside, it usually runs about 120 degrees.

So, you can see that things cool down quickly, but it takes a while for the turbo housing and the manifold flange area to dissipate the extra heat, probably because of their extra mass.

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98. 5 ISB CC, 5 spd.
3. 55 LSD, Jacobs E-Brake

 

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Also, an exhaust brake will build and retain heat in the turbo and manifold. I can watch my gauge climb or stop dropping when I turn on the exhaust brake. Keep that in mind when you're going to be shutting off the engine, temperatures will drop faster if you do not use the exhaust brake.
Andy

 

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THAT IS THE EXACT REASON I ORDERED MINE WITH REMOTE LOCKS #ad
... ..... WANTED TO LIMIT THE NUMBER OF STARTING CYCLES. I AM UNDER THE IMPRESSION TURNING OFF AND ON THE ENGINE CONSTANTLY IS TOUGH ON THE CUMMINS. JUST MY 2 CENTS WORTH.

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'00 2500 SLT QUAD 4X4 SB/DRIFTWOOD-MIST GRAY/AUTO/3. 54/POWER SEAT/CD/FOGS/SPAY LINER/NERF BARS/4X ABS/CAMPER PKG/TRAVEL/REMOTE/FLAPS/AMSOIL SYNTHETICS/NOT BOMBED..... YET/MFG:ST. LOUIS,USA.