Here I am

Engine timing pin

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Fire in engine compartment......!

Local chanpter of TDR

Status
Not open for further replies.
I have a '97 3500 12 valve. When locating TDC how do you push and hold in the timing pin and bar over the motor at the same time, since you can't reach them both at the same time. Also after adjusting the valves can you reuse the same valve cover gaskets. Will they seal back up. And do you need to use any gasket sealer. Last, has anyone had a temperature problem like this? My guage cosistantly moves up and down from 190deg to 160deg all the time. Antifreeze is ok.
 
Two person job if you're using a barring tool. I turn mine with an open end wrench on the fan nut. There is enough belt friction to turn the motor over. When you do find TDC, make a mark on the crank pulley that aligns with a bolt head with whiteout. Next time that you reset valve lash, you'll be able to bar the engine almost to TDC right away.

Reuse the valve cover gaskets. They are rubber of some sort and can be used many times - no gasket sealer required. Suggest you clean off the head area Before you remove the valve covers. easier to clean up the surfaces to reseal if no road grime and grit is there.

The 'overactive thermostat' is a common occurance on the 94-97 (maybe 98) 12 valve motors. Make sure that you have the latest thermostat upgrade kit. Doing a search on this list will get you the updated number.

Other than that, learn to ignore the gauge, no one seems to have had any long term problems result from the engine running too cold.



------------------
 
Valve timing doesn't require precise crankshaft position. The procedure outlined in the TDR works just fine. OTOH, one benefit of using the timing pin is that will keep it freed up. It tends to "freeze" in position if not used.

When you remove the valve covers for valve adjustment, try blowing out any loose grit/debris around the covers before you remove them. It makes the job of cleaning the gasket surfaces a little easier.

------------------
1996 Dodge 2500 4X4 SC, SLT, Cummins 12V, 5-spd. , JRE 4" exhaust (my kitty ran away into the woods and the muffler fell off!), TST 280 HP/685 Ft-Lb Uprate Kit, AFC Spring Kit, Horton Fan Clutch, Jacobs/Ram Exhaust Brake, MagHytec Differential Cover, Prime-Loc, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Combo Gauge, K&N Air Filter, Brite-Box, Geno's finger-touch oil pan drain plug, Optima Yellow Tops, no turbo silencer ring, full-time fog lights.
 
Originally posted by Easy:
I have a '97 3500 12 valve. When locating TDC how do you push and hold in the timing pin and bar over the motor at the same time, since you can't reach them both at the same time. Also after adjusting the valves can you reuse the same valve cover gaskets. Will they seal back up. And do you need to use any gasket sealer. Last, has anyone had a temperature problem like this? My guage cosistantly moves up and down from 190deg to 160deg all the time. Antifreeze is ok.
I went to push the pin on mine and it
was very tight. So I pulled back on it and the darn thing came out in my hand! I put it back in with some silcon rubber and did my valves using a socket on the crankshaft nut to turn and marked the vibration damper 180 deg from the TDC mark. This is so you can set the other valves. Did not have a problem with the shaft moving as long as you wait for the compression to bleed down. The rear cylinder was a BTH to reach. Hope this helps.
Bill
 
Not as stated (2 man job)!!!
Use a socket and long handled(12") breaker bar(assuming you down't own a 12" snap on -rachet) on the damper pulley bolts. Rotate-after-
remove'ing 1st valve cover --- Heck remove them all-you are about to run the rack-(set the valves---- Rotate till pin goes in. intake& exh will be load free(tension/gap /ect!! Now that the pin is in with a scrib mark the bottom side of the damper & pan... rotate and adjust the other valves. . NEXT time forget the pin and line up the scribed marks>>>
 
The correct position to get the other valves is a complete turn (360) from the TDC mark back to it again. The cam shaft will have turned 180 so that other set of valves will be in position to adjust. I turn mine to the TDC mark and check #1 and #6 to see which set gets done first.

------------------
Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,DTT TC/VB,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver
 
Originally posted by grtescpa:
Originally posted by Easy:
I have a '97 3500 12 valve. When locating TDC how do you push and hold in the timing pin and bar over the motor at the same time, since you can't reach them both at the same time. Also after adjusting the valves can you reuse the same valve cover gaskets. Will they seal back up. And do you need to use any gasket sealer. Last, has anyone had a temperature problem like this? My guage cosistantly moves up and down from 190deg to 160deg all the time. Antifreeze is ok.
Sorry for the wrong info I gave on the valve adjustment. I work on to many motors and get things confused at times. Its nice to know we have sharp readers out there.
Bill
 
All good advice but one more thing I do to ensure a proper fit, I wrote numbers 1-6 on top of each cover so the same would go back in the same place. Might be simple but it works for an old man.
Preston

------------------
96 3500, Black SLT, 5 speed, turbo diesel, , with US Gear overdrive, Rhino liner, Reese 15,000 lb. fifth wheel hitch, US Gear de-celarator exhaust brake, muffler elimination kit, Amsoil lub. , Mag-hytec rear cover, dual-remote by-pass filters, and Roadmaster Active system, AutoMeter Pyro & boost, Primeloc
 
Thanks guys for all your suggestions, they really helped. I understand amsoil is the best synthetic to use. Any input on this? What lube should I use in the transmission and rearend? Mine is a '97 2x4 w/4500 transmission. I keep hearing use only factory lube in transmission or it will screw it up. No syhthetic here. EASY

------------------
Rick Schmidt
 
Originally posted by Easy:
Thanks guys for all your suggestions, they really helped. I understand amsoil is the best synthetic to use. Any input on this? What lube should I use in the transmission and rearend? Mine is a '97 2x4 w/4500 transmission. I keep hearing use only factory lube in transmission or it will screw it up. No syhthetic here. EASY

I run Amsoil in everything except the power steering. No problems in the automatic transmission. Been running with it
for 20,000 miles. Amsoil will not hurt your truck.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top