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Archived Engine turns over, then dies

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Today I was working on my truck (1998, 12v) to fix the evaporator drain causing my passenger floorboard to collect water. I extended the spout with a hose, and dropped the blower motor to clean out the HVAC. While I had the hood up, I also did my normal maintenance. I checked my fluid levels, air filter, and all that. This was also the first time I messed with the fuel filter. I opened the drain a little, some fuel came out, and I closed it right back up.

Now I go to start the truck, and it turns over, idles at about 4-500 and then dies. I tried it again, this time giving it some throttle (thinking that I might have starved it of fuel when I messed with the fuel filter), and the same thing happens.

What do I need to do to get the truck to stay running after it starts?

Thanks

I'm searching the archives, and I guess my problem is most similar to this. Except I didn't actually change the fuel filter, I just drained a little fuel out (as per Haynes manual). So I guess I need to open the fuel filter up and fill it with diesel to replace any air I let in. Is that correct?
 
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That's what I'd try first. These things HATE to run with any air in the fuel. Fill the fuel filter with as much diesel as you can before spilling it and see what happens. It will take some cranking to get it from the filter to the injection pump, but once there, you should be ok. When it finally catches, it might run rough for a bit, but will smooth out quickly. Good luck.
 
Thanks. I managed to get it working by looking at this post too. Bumping the starter was the key to getting things going again. I bumped it about 6-8 times, with 15 seconds between each try, and then went for it, and it started great. After all that, I'm pretty disappointed that I didn't even change the fuel filter. I just looked at it and put it back in.
 
Yup, bumping the starter is the recommended way to do it, but it took a while for me and I lost patience doing it. A friend of mine was pouring the fuel straight in and so I followed suit. Not as safe for the fuel system because it can let unfiltered fuel through, but works very quickly. Glad you found your problem.
 
Unless your fuel lift pump has been changed to an electric fuel pump, I believe you should have a mechanical lift pump with a primer button. Bumping the starter doesn't prime a mechanical pump. If you have the mechanical lift pump, next time you have this problem try going under the hood and pumping the primer button a few times. If you have mostly air in the line the primer will be fairly easy to push. When primed with fuel there's a fair amount of resistance, and when you're pumping it aggressively you should hear fuel swishing past the overflow valve at the front of the injection pump.



Primer button location is below the fuel filter, see pic.



http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Facts/figures/12Ve_locations-l.gif
 
If your idle is only 400-500 then it is way too low. That is what is causing the dying. Set it up to 800 or more. A 12 valve will start even if you install the fuel filter empty. It just takes a few cycles of crank for 30 seconds and let the starter cool for two minutes. Or, as Gary says, use the push button. If the fuel filter is empty then it will take a lot of button pushes to fill the filter. If you fill the fuel filter before installing it then you will be sending unfiltered fuel to the injecition pump. Not a good idea. Email me at -- email address removed -- for my 12 valve fuel system write up, how it works and how to fix it.

Throw away the Haynes manual. It's junk and full or errors. You can get the factory service manual from Geno's garage on CD for $30.
 
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Well, it's back to running normally now, and idling at 800. That 400-500 number was only while I was having issues yesterday. That also really clued me in on the Haynes manual. It told me how to drain/replace the fuel filter, but didn't mention that there was more to the procedure after it was replaced. I'm definitely buying the factory service manual now.
 
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