Here I am

engine wont shut down

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PE Comp with DD2's or DD3'S

Think I'll join in dieselhaulics,say hello

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hello guys. When I started my truck the other day I noticed a whine and rattle coming from the engine compartment. Sounded like the starter was staying engaged. I shut the ignition off but the truck kept running. by disconnecting the batt. cables I was able to shut the truck down. anyone ever have this happen to them. If so how did you fix it. Any input is appriciated. thanks.
 
Don't run out and buy a new starter as the solenoid can be rebuilt for $35. In the meantime carry the tools to disconnect the batteries rapidly so you don't burn out the starter.
 
Hmmmm I've heard the same thing a few times,just after I've started the truck. It has not ever kept running though. I suppose a Cummins store is the best place to get these parts, how about NAPA do they have the good stuff or is it a equal to Mopar replacement stuff?
 
Diesel Electric Service in Arizona has the parts for the solenoid repair. They are 29. 50 plus S&H. Phone number: (520) 836-8231. This is where many folks here have been getting them. They take credit cards and ship same day with excellent instructions.
 
thank's for the input guys. starter solinoid hugh? I was thinking that. I started with the starter relay. my next step was the enjector pump relay on the firewall. for 30$ my next step will probley be to rebuild the solinoid. Thank's guys.
 
You can rebuild it for about $10 if you just want to buy the contacts inside the starter... . which is all that is really wrong in there. You can change up to 3 sets of contacts before the plunger is bad... . which is why you spend $30 at that Diesel Electric place in AZ... . they give you two contacts (~$5 each... and at that they are making a nice profit)... and a plunger which takes up the remainder of the cost... .



The starter is really easy to pull... . use a 10mm 12-point wrench that is a bit lengthy as the bolts may be on tight... then use a shorter 10mm 12-point to move them out the rest of the way... . the electrical connections are self explanatory... . 8mm, and then 18mm... if my memory is worth it's weight in PSD parts. I ended up cutting the big red insulator on the heavy gauge wire as it was a huge pain in the butt to get things back together with it being its non pliable self. Do the electricals first, then remove starter... . then rebuild starter... . then reinstall starter... . then do electricals again.



Matt - been there, done that... . got the T-shirt... . truck has shut down every time since I changed out both contacts.
 
This has happened to me a couple of times so I know a fix is coming. Each time I have turned the key again to kick the solenoid and it has come unstuck. Then it works great for a few months.



It's on my list!
 
Originally posted by Deezul 1

Check your yellow pages for starter/ alternater rebuilders, they will have the contacts.



I read somewhere (TDR?) that Toyota dealers carry them too- Toys also use ND starters.
 
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