ESPAR install (FYI)

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I wanted to post on my ESPAR installation for the benefit of those considering buying one. I wanted to do this when I did the install, but I've been a bit busy all summer long.....

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Great kit, had everything I needed. One part was damaged in shipping and ESPAR replaced it right away with no cost to me at all.

Clear illustrated instructions allowed myself and a friend to mount everything but the electronics within about 4 hours. Being more electronic than mechanical, the mounting up part was the area I had been most worried about.

Dropping the fuel tank seemed a bit hairy but following the step by step instructions we had no real problems. (hints: get the dirt off before you break open anything, watch the fill and vent hoses for too much strain, and do this with a near empty tank)

Sounds like it will not be long before I get a chance to see the heater in action!!

I'll say more once I start using it on a regular basis. I can't wait to click the remote control at the airport and have a warm truck to climb into on the roof of the parking structure after a x-country flight.

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99' SB 4x4 : DDI's, HOT PE, SPA dual gauge, ESPAR, Line-X OTR, Ladder bars, etc (GPS,Cell,CB,... . )

 

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I have almost got mine in too. Just need to run the wiring harness and fuel line. I went to run the fuel line from the tank to the heater. 6" short. I had 8' line in the kit. A call to Espar said I should have had double that. Espar sent me out more line.

 

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Now that it is starting to get cooler I too have decided to tackle installing the Epsar Heater that I bought back in March (thanks David_VT for putting that group purchase together). Everything had gone well up until I tried to reconnect the fuel supply line to the new Banjo fitting on the lift pump. The fuel line (at least on my truck) has to make a very tight S turn, doubling back on itself, to make this relocated connection and while trying to carefully coax it on the inevitable happened and the line kinked. The fuel supply line is some type of plastic tubing inside of a protective sleeve (at the lift pump and fuel tank ends with steel tubing in the middle) and needless to say the plastic tubing has memory so the kink is permanent. Now I'm out of service until I replace or otherwise fix the line. According to Dodge you have to replace the whole line from the fuel tank to the lift pump as a unit, you can't replace just the plastic at one end, they want around $100 bucks for it, OUCH!!

So, I don't know if anyone else has run into this problem but I thought I would warn you.

In the mean time I will try cutting the front section of the plastic supply line off at the steel tubing and installing a piece of rubber fuel line between it and the lift pump. I think this should work, although I question whether this is a good long-term fix.

Also, does anyone know if this plastic fuel supply tubing can be made suppler, perhaps by heating? I really don't want to go out, buy a new fuel supply line and have the same problem over again.

Charlie




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Y2K+1 2500 RC 4x4 ETH-DEE SLT, 241HD, 3. 55ASD, TT, CS

 

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Sounds like a good time to upgrade to the fuel lines that several folks have talked about. ANYONE got a kit out that does tank to VP44??

I did the ESPAR without removing the starter or the front tire, in a gravel pit with a friend. Sure my long arms help, but it can be done.

As to that fuel line, the only oops we had was dropping one of the gaskets on the ground (remember gravel pit)... .

 

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Finished the wiring on the heater 2 hours ago. I can`t believe it ,IT WORKS!

This heater has got BALLS.

It took the coolant temp from 60 degrees to 140 degrees in an hour. It sounds just like a little oil burner. This heater means business!

It wouldn`t fire at first. Fault code # 052 flashed. I guess it was having trouble priming itself. Re-started and it fired.

Lots of smoke and wierd smells because it was new at first. The exhaust pipe gets VERY hot, make sure nothing flammable is close to it.

Apparently the fuel pick-up tube for the heater is not very long. My fuel tank is 1 needle above a quarter tank. The heater cut out after about 80 mins and flashed code # 054, "flame has extinguished" I HOPE its just out of fuel.

Check the brass fittings on the fuel tank pick up tube. Mine were loose. I tightened them. They may need to have thread tape. It could still? be sucking air from the fittings.

The heater was by far the longest & toughest shadetree job I have ever done.

Fire away with any installation questions you guys may have. #ad

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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.




[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 10-07-2000). ]

 

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Hey!!! Glad to see you guys finaly geting cold enough weather to get motivated!

Actualy I know other priorities were done first. I was down to a Quarter of a tank the other morning and fires for a minute and flashed a code indicating no fuel.

I now will have the job in November of removing the Espar and putting it on a 2001 3500. I think the cold December wind will be pushing me before I complete it.

Bert

 

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Another person that got an Espar during the promotion got a fault code 14. He had to pull his pump/heater and send it in for service... under warranty of course.

The last thing I want to do is pull everything apart again.

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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.

 

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Bill,

The fault 14 was me. I changed my handle to agree with some of the other sites.

I did not have a repair facility near me so the Espar engineer had me send it to them in Canada.
Originaly the 14 code indicated the water pump failure when they worked on it they informed me the ECM was bad which they replaced and tested the unit throughly. They even sent the test sheet that was done. I was concerned after installing, removing unit, and putting back that it might fail. Has worked great!

The install wasn't difficult, just time consuming for me as I like to study and see what may bite me before I am in over my head.
It worked from the getgo.
In a nice quite campground it sounds like a jet warming up so I dont use it early in the morning. (at least try not to).
Will remove it next month and install it on the new 3500 4x4 QC HO 6sp when ever it comes in. (waited 6 1/2 months for the 97 so will try to be patient) #ad
#ad


This Web site is great. Due to the suggestions I received on the initial install, the antena is located up inside the dash and responds to the remote at least 350 ft away. Dash etc not hard to remove, just got to not force anything and see all fastners are removed.

[This message has been edited by Happy Camper (edited 10-07-2000). ]

 

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The heater is meant to go off at 1/4 tank or there about. So you do not suck the tank dry- Not too much of a worry at less than 1/2 litre per hour. I also had the line kink. I used a little heat and massaged it most of the way open. Still not the best, ran it a year like that. Then I upgraded the fuel line to 1/2" and made the problem go away ( JRE kit). The JRE was put in for anther problem with the aftermarket AERO tank.

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P. Campbell 1998. 5 ISB 2500 auto green/driftwood

 

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You guys find the fuel line inside the tank (from ESPAR) almost touched the bottom of the tank? I don't understand how the fuel would cut out at anything but a near empty tank.
Is there a hole in the side of the pipe???

 

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David.

I have the 60gal tank and cant remember (heard that before) how far down the fuel pickup went, for one thing bed raised head in a mouse trap and not paying attention. Is that enough excuses? When the fuel guage was reading 1/4 on a cool morning it fired up for awhile and closed down with the fuel fault code. LOVE THE UNIT.

 

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Quote from Happy Camper

,"for one thing bed raised head in a mouse trap and not paying attention. Is that enough excuses?"

LOL Happy Camper, I agree with ya. I`d want to get my head out of there as quick as possible too. #ad

 

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Hey! Winter is arriving and for those who have purchased the heater and haven't installed yet eat your heart out as I sit here in a warm house and hear the Jet sound as the Ram's second engine is pumping the big Ram's heart up to get it warm and going. #ad

 

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I live in California, so I have no use for this heater yet, but there may be a time in the not too distant future that I'll want one.

I'll be installing a 60 gal Aerotanks tank in a few months, so I'm wondering... is there any prepwork I can do when that tank is swapped to prevent me from having to drop it again? Those tanks aren't small or light.

Rob

 

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This site is killing me!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just when I think I don't need anything else for my truck, a post comes along like this one. #ad
Thanks David... ... ... .....

Joe #ad

 

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Ask AERo about the "spin rings" Thier catolog is not informative at all. I did not like the detail on the fuel unit/cover part. Then I see a part of the catolag that has "spin rings" for maybe over 100$. It looks like they would make the top detail of the tank EXACTLY like stock if built with them. So you could use the stock (or JRE) top plug. I made the stock top cap work with the AERO and the plain sealing ring. The AERO supplied top cap has to few holes for all the sevices-especially with the ESPAR. Of course you need to lower the fuel basket/sender past its normal adjustment limits. The kit they supply is weak on the integration to the vehicle. 3/8 holes are required to be drilled in the bottlom flange of the frame rail. This is a NO- NO right from the DC service manual. I drilled 4 (smaller than)1/4" holes instead and tapped them with a 1/4" NF tap. Then tightened the bolts from the top inside of the frame- ready to recieve the tank. I did drill the 3/8" holes in the axle arch. Build or get some 3/8" "flag" nuts for that part. There is little room once the tank is up to do a good job on backing them up- but it is possible. On attaching to the under cab crossmember- put some scrap over the frame between the frame and cab when drilling. The stock welded in studs need to be cut off flush with the frames. This is your no turning back point. Be prepared to hoist this tank up and down ( with jacks ) many many times during the fit up and alignment. The drive shaft may need to come all the way out. I got away with only taking it off the differential. Long cabs will be different (2 piece shaft??). It will extend your time between fill ups, but these guys are low bid. Be prepared to pick up on the attention to detail that they left out. They will deliver a leak tight fuel tank. Have fun put aside a weekend in your garage, two weekends outside in a driveway to do this. Lifting the bed is a good idea if possible.

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P. Campbell 1998. 5 ISB 2500 auto green/driftwood