ESPAR install question

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Just finished putting my ESPAR heater, only had one real challenge and that was the G-D'd coolant hose and assoc fittings that goes from the block btwn 5/6 cyl to ESPAR unit. That is NOT easy to get to. Any good ideas on how to keep hose from interfering with throttle linkage?

I still have orig fuel filter location in use and prefer not to go to a primeloc if I can avoid it.

This heater is great!


Andy Raiha

96/2500/CC/4x4/4. 10/5sp

 

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Hi Andy,

You are right about the water jacket pipe plug between # 5&6 Cylinders. A major PITA. I could see the plug from underneath the truck. Couldn't see or feel it from the top. I used an 8" extension and tried to feel when I had got it in the plug. A solid hour to R&R the plug with the hose barb.

I just checked my "in" hose from the block hose barb to the Espar inlet. There is about an 1. 5" clearence from the rearward part of the throttle rod. Plenty of room.

I'm guessing you left the moulded elbow part of the hose that goes to the heater itself a little too long. My "in" hose out of the heater makes a 90 degree bend, than almost a straight line to the block[5&6 cyl} hose barb.

I have approx 3" hose on the inlet port of the heater (flush with the heater body), then it makes a 90 degree bend towards the block hose barb.

In a nutshell, make sure your "in" hose from the block to the heater is not too long. Don't have a lot of straight hose coming off the Espar before it turns 90 degrees.

The "in" hose should come off the Espar , turn 90 degrees & run towards the rear of the throttle rod, right up to the engine block hose barb. If your 90 degree bend starts too late off the Espar, I could see it interfereing with the linkage. See what I mean?

Let me know how you make out.

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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 12-24-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

Bill,

Thanks for the suggestion. I have the hose as short as possible without restricting flow. The hose (straight section) runs only maybe 1. 5 inches in front of ESPAR unit. Makes me wonder if (working in the dark literally and figuratively) I didn't get the heater unit far enough back, can't see how, who knows. I will check this though.

Andy Raiha

 

[Archive]

Andy,

As a reference point, the front edge (towards the grill) of the Espar is almost lined up (flush) with the front edge of the power brake booster.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 12-24-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

Bill,

Took a break for holiday, but after driving to relatives, checked for leaks and looked at placement of Espar unit. It is lined up with the front edge of brake booster. Thanks for your help. I am going to give ESPAR a shout and see what they have to say. I will post results. Have a great holiday & thanks!

Andy Raiha

 

[Archive]

I don't know what all the hoopla is about the pipe plug fitting. It is in the head, not the block and is between cyls 3&4, not 5&6. I got mine with a long 3/8 extension bar and with the fuel filter removed. I have a 97 with the canister style filter and I now have to push the throttle to WOT to get the canister in and out for changing. No prime loc needed. Just give yourself enough hose to also make up for when the engine torques over when under power. The common mistake is to cut the hose too short and then it will interfere with the throttle linkage. I also found no need to remove the starter to do the install. I had it done within about 5 hours, first time ever.

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Chris Timochko
AUTO WURKS DIESEL R&D TEAM
1997 5sp 4X4, Espar Heater, A. W. D. HX40 turbo, ATS 3pc Manifold, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, A. W. D. Custom Tuned Injection Pump, A. W. D. Intercooler, A. W. D. 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, A. W. D. Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, A. W. D. 6" Chrome Exhaust System, BD No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s.
*******************************************************************************
Project U96 - 1996 3500 2WD racer. A. W. D. Marine Ultra Low Compression, A. W. D. Teflon-coated Pistons, A. W. D. High Lift Camshaft, Ported and Honed Cylinder Head, Intake and Exhaust manifold; A. W. D. HX40 Turbocharger, ATS 3pc Exhaust Manifold, A. W. D. Water Injection, A. W. D. Custom Fabricated Fuel System, Race Spec A. W. D. /BD P7100 Injection Pump, A. W. D. Custom High Flow Fuel Injection Nozzles, BD Auto transmission and Custom TC, Weld Draglites, Goodyear Eagle Drag Slicks, 5" Single Stack Through The Bed, Mag-Hytec on Rear and Transmission.

 

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Chris,

Didn't mean to offend your sensibilities... Only quoting espar install guide on 5/6 location. Does the hose run under the filter or next to it? Mine dips down about to bottom edge of filter and slightly under (with an FS1253) and then runs to espar. It runs right next to linkage. Not sure I can make the hose longer without it kinking. I didn't pull my starter either. I got the stomach flu halfway thru job and had to quit. Finished job couple days later. Took little over 7 hours outside in Staten Island weax.

 

[Archive]

I installed the Espar on my '98 12 valve in Jan. of '98 and the plug I had to use was clear in the back of the head (behind the fuel filter) as the temp. sender was in the hole between 5th and 6th. The hole was also larger than the fitting that was included in the kit. I also installed the unit backwards to the instructions so the hoses point to the firewall. Seemed to me it cluttered the engine compartment too much the other way. Another thing that I am looking to do is to direct the Espar exhaust through a fabricated box attached the oil pan to transfer some heat to the engine oil. I started the box 2 years ago and it has set since. (winters have been mild up till this one, didn't need it) The thing that stopped the project was not knowing the best way to mount it to the oil pan so it would tranfer the most heat. Any Ideas?

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'98 12-valve CC 2500 4x4 5-speed,Espar Heater,
Ultimate Bedliner, Turnover Gooseneck Hitch,
Bright-Box, Rancho RS9000
Combo Gage

 

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araiha,

My inlet hose from the Espar runs next to the filter (FS-1253) about 1/2 way up. It does not quite touch it. The rear ball socket of the throttle rod is about 1. 5" away from the hose. (idle position). A thought. You have the 90 degree elbow end of the hose coming off the espar heater, not on the hose barb coming off the head?

wentling,

Very good thinking on a box type oil pan heater. I see you noticed too that there is a TON of wasted heat pouring out of the Espar exhaust pipe. You could toast marshmellows if you wanted too. The exhaust is HOT. It's very clean exhaust too.

Chris , You are right about the plug being in between # 3 & 4 cylinders. It's an Espar typo. My hands were to big to get in there. I couldn't see or feel the plug from the top. Should have used a mirror. It was a totally blind operation using an extension. (for me) If I had to do it again, it would be easy, now that I know how to do it. You know how it is. #ad

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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 12-26-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

I didn't mean to come off in an offended way, just posting and running out of the house to work. My hose doesn't touch the canister either. I started with it much longer than I needed it to be and cut it down until it just wouldn't kink. Then I had the fun of putting on the clamp onto the barb end and cursed and screamed for a half hour as I couldn't fit my hands into there to do the job and I had to resort to a micro ratchet and 1/4 drive socket. And bruises on the arms are just going away now.

------------------
Chris Timochko
AUTO WURKS DIESEL R&D TEAM
1997 5sp 4X4, Espar Heater, A. W. D. HX40 turbo, ATS 3pc Manifold, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, A. W. D. Custom Tuned Injection Pump, A. W. D. Intercooler, A. W. D. 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, A. W. D. Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, A. W. D. 6" Chrome Exhaust System, BD No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s.
*******************************************************************************
Project U96 - 1996 3500 2WD racer. A. W. D. Marine Ultra Low Compression, A. W. D. Teflon-coated Pistons, A. W. D. High Lift Camshaft, Ported and Honed Cylinder Head, Intake and Exhaust manifold; A. W. D. HX40 Turbocharger, ATS 3pc Exhaust Manifold, A. W. D. Water Injection, A. W. D. Custom Fabricated Fuel System, Race Spec A. W. D. /BD P7100 Injection Pump, A. W. D. Custom High Flow Fuel Injection Nozzles, BD Auto transmission and Custom TC, Weld Draglites, Goodyear Eagle Drag Slicks, 5" Single Stack Through The Bed, Mag-Hytec on Rear and Transmission.

 

[Archive]

Appreciate all the input. That's what makes this site great! ESPAR unit front is approx even with front of brake booster. 90 fitting comes off ESPAR unit. Used the right plug on engine. Almost as though fuel filter (unmodified) is causing the tight fit I am experiencing. Guess there are just small differences in engine set-ups. Build date of engine was Oct 95. a well-placed wire tie & some chafe will have to do for now. Only way I can fix right is to put a 3/4 NPT 90 to another 3/4 NPT 90 to 'S' the fitting down from the block a little & go under linkage. Thanks again!