Excessive pad wear

[Cummins12V98]

My 01 Sport that i replaced the calipers (power stop) and rotors plus pads (EBC) and flushed lines has worn out one of the rear sets of pads. The wear is fairly equal as seen but the other side has 1/4" pad left on both pads. Fronts look great also. I may have 20k on the complete job.

My friend has been using the truck and has done the work on it as I am not in the area. To get by I told him to buy a set of $30 pads and throw them on. While things were apart he said the pistons pushed in easily. Truck has about 140k with I am sure the original brake lines. You can see the lower pads left end just started to touch the rotor. I just noticed that pad links to have 1/8" material left so it's wearing unevenly. That does not explain both sides wearing so fast.

What the heck could have caused this???

 

[DavidC]

Pin sliders ?

 

[AH64ID]

I would guess the problem is on the other side, and this side is overcompensating for a lack of braking on the other side.

 

[Cummins12V98]

I would guess the problem is on the other side, and this side is overcompensating for a lack of braking on the other side.

So what could cause that?

 

[Cummins12V98]

Pin sliders ?

I did properly lubrications the slider pins along with all metal mating surfaces.

I was thinking possibly bad hose but the pistons pushed in easily.....

 

[AH64ID]

Just because the calipers move in easily doesn't mean they are working properly.

When was the last time the brake fluid was flushed?

 

[bcbender]

I've seen numerous calipers stuck due to corrosion internally, likely due to water, rust, etc and poor brake fluid condition.. worst is when they stick "engaged" like happened to my camping buddy on his 05 going down black mtn. Ive had some push in "easy" then get stuck shortly after that, IMO due to the above mentioned factors,.. generally I think diff oil and brake fluid are the two most under services / ignored maintenance items out there.

 

[Chief USA]

I had this problem on both the wife's and my truck last year before last and it came to a head when we were on a run for sugar barrels for the apiary. Randomly, the brakes would over heat on random wheels. When we finally got home, I took the brakes apart to find the original OEM brakes that were on the truck when I purchased it new still had about 75% or more pad remaining but I also found that years to condensation cycles from setting while not in use had corroded all of the brake calipers and they were in various states of being seized up. I tried freeing up the caliper pistons, lubricating all of the parts, and cleaning up the corrosion but they after a few brake applications were right back to seizing up and over heating. I am embarassed to say that the original brake fluid when I purchased the truck new was still in the brake system. No excuses, I should have been replacing it every 2 years but there it was almost 17 years old. On a farm, sometimes other things can take priority and side track you from the maintenance that should get done. That and surgery and rehabilative therapy to repair a torn distal bicep tendon kinda had my mind on other things. Still my fault though.

Rather than try to salvage badly corroded and potentially problematic parts, I replaced EVERYTHING. The truck got new Centric cyro dipped HD slotted rotors, Centric Loaded Posi Quiet calipers, pads, brake lines, and I flushed almost 2 gallons of clean brake fluid though the brake system to get that nasty old fluid and crap out. The OEM 17 year old brake fluid smelled like cat urine. With all new fluids and components the truck brakes like it did when new. Yes, it was expensive but when I spread out the cost of brakes and maintenance over the years that I have owned these trucks, it comes out to a very reasonable amount per year and FAR cheaper than buying a new truck by far.

Depending upon how far gone the condition of your brake system is, you may be better off to just bite the bullet and change everything out and get it all right the 1st time. For some reason, Rock Auto could not get all of the Centric calipers that I needed and I had to get the rest through Summit Performance who was also very good to deal with and did their best to price match Rock Auto. Good luck with the brake job and hope it all turns out well.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Just because the calipers move in easily doesn't mean they are working properly.

When was the last time the brake fluid was flushed?

It was all new when I did the brakes job August 2019 around 20k ago.

 

[Cummins12V98]

To be clear ALL parts were new including a complete brake fluid (AMZ/OIL) change. These are US Made PowerStop powder coated calipers (Top Quality) along with EBC US Made Rotors and Orange Towing pads.

So how can the opposite side cause the dramatic pad wear?

 

[AH64ID]

The rears are fed off one main line correct? Then splits at the axle.

 

[gsbrockman]

Any chance a brake line got kinked or twisted when the brake job was done?

In any event.....I’d highly consider new rear brake hoses. Sometimes.....brake hoses can collapse inside. Apply the brakes....and the pressure flows well in that direction. Release the brakes....and the fluid doesn’t flow so well.

Picture a flimsy straw being used to quickly consume your favorite chocolate milk shake...

 

[JR]

Were the caliper brackets replaced too? I see one looks painted but Sometimes not enough attention is given to cleaning up the areas of the pad slides causing the pads to stay engaged after the caliper releases.
I see this alot around here.

 

[Wiredawg]

I set parking brake EVERY time I park, even in my shop. Is it possible the parking brake mechanism is sticking? How many miles since rework? The rears typically wear considerably LESS than fronts, so with new calipers and pads, fluid, it's got to be something else.

Anyhoo, interesting to hear what it turns out being.

Cheers, Ron

 

[JR]

Parking brake shoes are inside the rotors

 

[Wiredawg]

Parking brake shoes are inside the rotors

Never knew that, I guess that dispells that theory...

- Master calendar propationing valve applying more pressure to rears than fronts? Seems it would be felt, but maybe not.
- Brake load propotioning valve issue on the rear axle? My '00 2500 had one that reduced rear brake pressure unloaded and increased it loaded.

Just throwing stuff on the wall to see if it sticks.

Cheers, Ron

 

[Cummins12V98]

The rears are fed off one main line correct? Then splits at the axle.

Yes that is correct.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Any chance a brake line got kinked or twisted when the brake job was done?

In any event.....I’d highly consider new rear brake hoses. Sometimes.....brake hoses can collapse inside. Apply the brakes....and the pressure flows well in that direction. Release the brakes....and the fluid doesn’t flow so well.

Picture a flimsy straw being used to quickly consume your favorite chocolate milk shake...

I was very careful and hung the old calipers then did the new and then removed from old and mounted to new.

My first thought was brake hose but then my friend said the piston retracted easily. But when the fluid is moving back and forth may act differently.

The calipers are new and of top quality but i guess anything can fail, My thoughts are a bad hose but as mentioned the other side may effect the bad side???

 

[Cummins12V98]

Were the caliper brackets replaced too? I see one looks painted but Sometimes not enough attention is given to cleaning up the areas of the pad slides causing the pads to stay engaged after the caliper releases.
I see this alot around here.

YES, all new! I sued the Permatex Synthetic caliper lube on the slides and all mating surfaces. The brakes work GREAT as I upgraded to 3rd gen fronts.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Parking brake shoes are inside the rotors

YES, and the pads were fine so I did not replace them but did adjust them and P brakes work great!