Exhaust Brake for Non Towing?

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I've got a 12v automatic and I don't do much towing if any at all. Is it worth it to put in an Engine Brake if you don't use the truck much for towing. I do use my brakes quite a bit and have problems with my drums in the back making the bed hop. Is it worth it to install one and how much does it really help on brake wear? Also which is the right one to get for primarily city driving and then some highway driving. Thanks GMD

[This message has been edited by DieselDunn (edited 12-11-1999). ]

 

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DieselDunn,
I can't see why you would need an exhaust brake if you don't tow anything... ... ...
I tow a load of 7,000# and could have used some extra braking once...coming down a very long 15% grade... .
Also, I don't know why your back end would hop when braking. I think you have a problem.
I hope you get some good advise here... ... .
Ron

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'99 Quad long bed, emerald green/driftwood, 4x4, 5speed, 3. 55 limslip, Rancho 9000/remote adjuster
Boulder City, Nevada

 

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I know why you'd need one even though you don't tow!!

Just to get that "BIG TRUCK" sound when you pull up to a red light next to a Yugo... (Read PSD)... #ad
. . #ad
. . #ad


I've seen people almost jump out of their skins from that noise... Way better than the WHIMPY HORN on our trucks!!!!

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'98. 5 24V 2500 C. C. SLT, 4X4, Auto, SWB, Forest Gr. /Driftwood, Tow Pkg. , Smittybilt S. S. Nerf Bars, Factory Tow Hooks, K&N, Mag-Hytech transmission,PIAA 1200 Series Fog lights, PIAA Platinum Headlights, Dodge 3 Pc. Bug-Flector,Alpine CDA-855 Head,Alpine VA-100M Sub AMP,Alpine VA-407 4 Ch AMP, Polk Audio (2)6. 5" Components in the doors and (2) Polk 6. 5 Coaxials in back, MTX Dodge RAM Custom Sub Box W/ (2) 10" 5000 series Subs. . 7 7/8 coats of wax. . Yes Sir That's My Baby!!

 

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I have a PacBrake in my 95 2500 w/5spd 2wd and I leave it on all the time. When you are driving in heavy traffic, very little to no braking is required. Just lift up your right foot and S L O W down. You will cut down on using your brakes by 50%. Need more stopping ability, higher RPM (downshift). Be sure to have the RV exhaust springs installed along with the PacBrake.
Needless to say I am happy with mine. If you know anyone who has one on their truck you can drive, drive theirs (only if you leave your first born as a retainer).

 

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There is a reason why Dodge says do not install exhaust brakes on rigs with automatic transmissions. The exhaust brake cooks the transmission if you don't have a switch to lock up the torque converter. The exhaust brake will turn the engine down to an idle and hold it against the torque converter. With this condition you are operating closer to a stall condition and generating much more heat in the torque converter, not in the engine as a manual transmission does. Also, an automatic transmission sends oil to the cooler after all other needs are met. This means virtually no cooler flow with an input shaft rpm below 1500 rpm. In town you would have much operation below 1500 rpm. The manual torque converter lock switch is used by people on long downgrades pulling a heavy trailer. The locked up torque converter will cause the truck to buck and kill the engine if you try to stop without manually switching it off. An automatic transmission does not automatically shift from low to neutral when you come to a stop. If you install the manual switch and use the exhaust brake in heavy stop and go traffic, you will be as busy as the one legged man in an ass kicking contest (or was that the one armed paper hanger).

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'97 SLT 2500, Cummins 4x2 LB Club Cab, auto, 3. 54 LSD, white/driftwood, air dam, sliding rear window, towing/camper pkgs, Rhino liner, stainless bed caps, stake pocket tie downs, chrome exhaust turn down, stainless wheel well trim, Carr steps, Cobra 25W CB/Firestik, J-MAC louvered aluminum headache rack and fifth wheel tail gate, Reese 15k fifth wheel hitch, 29 ft Dreamer fifth wheel, fully loaded GCW=18,000 lbs. Kennewick, Washington.




[This message has been edited by Boldt's Wagon (edited 12-18-1999). ]

 

[Archive]

I have to disagree with Boldt's here. "If you install the manual switch and use the exhaust brake in heavy stop and go traffic, you will be as busy as the one legged man in an ass kicking contest (or was that the one armed paper hanger)" just is not true. It depends on how you rig the manual TCC lock up switch. I use mine all the time. When I start up the TCC switch is turned on and I turn it off when I park it. I have a push button in series with the TCC lock up manual switch that is mounted on the floor next to my left foot. When I want to temporarily turn the TCC lock up switch off I just step on the button (kind of like an old style dimmer switch) then turn it back on by lifting my left foot. This is real easy to do. My front brakes have over 70K miles on them and the back have over 90K. I may have to do a brake job this spring sometime, but I said that last year too. I don't have the part number of the push button switch I used here at work, but if you would like it I can post it later tonight.


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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,Torque plate,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver