Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Exhaust brake leaks

[Sticks]

I need suggestions for sealing up a USGear D-celerator exhaust brake at the inlet clamps. I've tried 3 different strap clamps and I can not get it sealed, ergo I am losing engine braking power. The leak is always at the joint where the strap comes together for the bolts.



I have a reducer from the 5" down pipe to 4", then into the brake.



I'm not welding it or putting on the U-bolt style clamp.



If someone knows of a good clamp or other method, please include brand, model, and or part numbers.



TIA

 

[milehiscott]

Sticks,
1) Did you ever get this fixed?
2) Do you still have the D-Celerator?
3) Do you still like it?

Hope all is well with you.
Scott

 

[Sticks]

1 - Nope, still waiting on suggestions.

2 & 3 - Yup, after my work at Central Motive Power, and driving a Ford, GM and Dodge with just about every type of exhaust brake out there, US-Gear D-Celerator (super duty version - internal wastegate) is still the best IMO. The only Exhaust brake that still noticeably pulls down to 1k rpm.

My 3. 5" that I had on it since I got the truck I ultimately ended up welding it in place to seal those freakin' leaks. I got 78K ( about half city driving) on the OEM service brakes and I only had to replace them because the 2 of the pads delaminated from the backing plates. They were still 1/4" thick.

Due to the location of this one, I don't want to weld it, that and it's just a PITA to remove if you have to (right next to my transmission). That is the only downside to the brand. They don't have a good clamping system to keep the upstream joints sealed to hold 40+ psi back pressure. Just a little leak will cost you about 30% of the braking power (seat of the pants measurement).

With a #2000 pound load in the bed, and another #2000 on a small trailer, it would still pull me down below the speed limit coming down the hills from Eisenhower tunnel. I have yet to have a trailer of any significance behind it.

I think I am going to try some of that adhesive backed aluminum HVAC duct tape under the clamp to see if that holds, barring any solutions from the membership here.

 

[SnoKing]

http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/rm_adhesive.htm



http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...r-&-tailpipe-sealer-(3-oz)-permatex_7020007-p



Snoking

 

[mattk50]

I have to agree with everything Sticks said about the US gear e-brake. I tow fairly heavy (20,000 combined)quite often and it will hold speed to 35-40 mph descending Donner pass with very little application of the service brakes.

 

[B.G. Smith]

I would try breaking the leaking flange, wire brush and clean the surfaces as good as you can, make sure there are no nicks in the mating surfaces, apply a good coat of petroleium based wheel bearing grease to the mating surface and where the band contacts the ring and tighten up according to specs. Don't use the brake the first time you run the truck up to temperature. Re-check torque and then see if it leaks with brake on. bg

 

[Sticks]

B. G. Smith - It's not the flange connections that are leaking, it's the 5" to 4" reducer, and the 4" into the brake with a 4" wide band clamp over the slip joints (ID over OD).

Thanks for the links Snoking. I did not think that there was a paste that would hold up to the temps.

 

[Sticks]

...
With a #2000 pound load in the bed, and another #2000 on a small trailer, it would still pull me down below the speed limit coming down the hills from Eisenhower tunnel. I have yet to have a trailer of any significance behind it...

This just hit me as a little funny - quasi endorsement for both products.

Snow Performance got me up the mountain at the speed limit and kept me under 1000 degrees on the EGT's, US Gear got me down without touching the service brakes.

 

[Cosmo]

Stock VGT brake on my old 08 worked pretty darned well, rolling over 20k I only had to hit the service brakes on a down grade a couple of times across the country. So far I haven't had any complaints about by pacbrake either, but then again I haven't experienced the US Gear.

 

[milehiscott]

Thanks for the recomendation Sticks. I pull a load each year that is roughly 11. 5 K Gross. While that is not earth shattering, I would like something other than the service brakes on Monarch Pass.
BTW, are you still at CMP?

 

[Sticks]

Thanks for the recomendation Sticks. I pull a load each year that is roughly 11. 5 K Gross. While that is not earth shattering, I would like something other than the service brakes on Monarch Pass.
BTW, are you still at CMP?

Nah, left them back in 7/07. Got tired of doing "A" level engine work while kids that graduated DADC with me were making $4 more an hour doing oil changes for trucking companies. Working for a concrete paving company as a field service tech now (the 60 hour weeks suck). I do miss CMP though. Would love to go back, they can't afford me.

The best mod that I have done with that D-Celerator is install a push button on my shifter (Hurst T handle shift knob) and a secondary switch in the brake circuit so it is either automatic when I release the throttle (gotta remember to turn off that cruise control), or only when I push the button on the shifter. My wiring is from a '96(?) model, so the new ones may have wiring to account for cruise control - mine does not. Just gotta get time to seal those darn leaks on the upstream side.

Winter engine warm up is awesome as well. Get's to operating temps in maybe 3 minuets (I'm guessing, never timed it). It puts enough load on the engine at idle and keeps the EGT's around 450-550. So much nicer to have a warm cab in 5 minuets rather than 15.

 

[milehiscott]

Nice. If I can get some toy $, I may be talking with you about helping me put it together.