Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Exhaust down pipe bolts

[JCyrbok]

Gonna be replacing my exhuast from the turbo on back with a Rip Rook 4inch here in the next couple of weeks. Was under the hood today and figured I would take a look at the bolts for the down pipe to turbo connection as my current exhaust is the original system. The bolts look like they are pretty mych fused to the turbo elbow flange, LOL (actually several four letter words ran through my mind when I saw that). So I figure I would start soaking them everyday with PB Blaster to hopefully break the bond in the next couple of weeks.



Hopefully that will work but with my luck it will not, LOL. What are the tricks you guys have used to get these out in the past. Heat? Going at them when the system is warm? Long breaker bar? Impact wrench ( I have a low quality one from HD that does not have much muscle to it)?



Any other ideas?



Oh btw that are the head size of the bolts and what is the length etc, incase I break one and have to replace it.



Thanks

J-

 

[BDaugherty]

They aren't easy to reach, but I used a wire wheel on a die grinder to knock the rust off the exposed threads. The nuts actually broke loose without too much fuss, but there's no way they would have backed over the rusted threads. After I cleaned the exposed threads, I put a couple dabs of thread lube (you could use antisieze) on the threads and then used a 6 point socket on a long extension and a 1/2" impact wrench to back them off. I had some new nuts ready use, but I don't think I needed them. Another option is to start a die on the exposed threads to clean them up. Either way, cleanliness and lubrication are key.



I don't remember what size they are, but my truck had studs and shoulder nuts holding the pipe to the elbow.

 

[dieselshu]

give Rip a call he will help you out over the phone with his great customer service.



Dave

 

[DFerverda]

BDaugherty Hit it , clean up, PB blaster beforehand and a 6 point socket, to keep from rounding the bolt, it will come off ok.
Mine had 230k on the original system and it came right off, the trouble is getting the down pipe off.
Dirk

 

[RHestand]

IMO I would never use an air or electric impact wrench on any nut or bolt that you think might be siezed. It can be stripped or broken-off in an instant. And then, the real fun begins.

I would do the things that were mentioned in prev. posts,( PB Blaster, wire brush, etc. ).

I would then get on it squarely, with good quality six point socket or box-end wrench, if possible. Try loosening it, gently, and considering at what point will this size bolt or stud, shear or strip. With some previous experience, you can feel this. If you do stop! Then do another round of Blaster, wire brush, heat, etc. Patience is the key here. The very last thing you want, is to think it's finally loosened up, only then to find out it has either stripped, or sheared off.

Another trick I use, that works sometimes, is when you find that it is stuck, don't be afraid to try gently doing pressure in both directions. Left & right several times, will sometimes crack the rust.

Of course, sometimes, nothing works!

Ray

 

[jeepit]

I used PB blaster and a very long extension to get mine apart. My truck was only a year old when took mine off so I did not have a problem with nuts being too tight...

 

[UMPRacer]

Put a Silverline system on my 98. 5 this winter. PB Blaster and long extension and six point came right off. However I spent over three hours trying to pull the old system apart with everything I had, including a port-a-power. Finally gave in and cut it off.

 

[JCyrbok]

OK copy guys, I'll keep hosing it down with PB. What size bolt head is it, so I can make sure I have the right 6point socket.



I'm pretty sure that the down pipe bolts are the only thing that will give me a problem. The joints are so rotted on the rest of the system that I can twist them and they move. I figured out that it was rotting when I was under the truck and leaned on the tail pipe and it rotated, LOL. IF there are any other problems out comes the sawz all, the system is beyond salavaging so I dont care what it looks like when it comes out, LOL



What do you guys think about painting the new system with some silver header paint, the stuff that is good to 1300degs to help it repeal the enviroment? There was a guy on Cummins forum that painted his with Krylon and it looks pretty good and he said that it is holding up.



Just a thought, as it would be pretty easy to do before installing it.



Thanks

J-

 

[BDahm]

i think it is a 12 or 13mm head on those bolts, just like everyone has already said, pb, 1/2 impact and extension, 6 pt socket, she'll be alright. Hammer down

 

[klaufer]

Just did my exhaust last week. Soaking in PB blaster for two weeks did not help. Hit the flange with the blue tipped fire wrench and the bolts came out probably as easily as they originally went in.

 

[JCyrbok]

got my exhaust in early last week. The bolts came out very easy after all the PB blaster the previous week and with a 24inch breaker bar. The bolts were 1/2inch heads and were not in as bad of shape as I thought. put them back in with some antiseize.



Exhaust went in pretty easy, took about 1 1/2 hour by myself on my back in my drive and another hour fine tuning the fit and tail pipe with a buddy. I was able to get the spare tire back in the stock location and the tail pipe exiting exactly where I wanted it.



Sounds very nice with a deep mellow growl when I stomp on it and no drone at highway speed.



J-

 

[DSeamans]

ANY rusted bolt

I learned this from an old welder/racer over 20 yrs ago. I have done it HUNDREDS of times and it has never failed me. The fire wrench is the first part of the equation. Heat the bolt if possible, not the nut or flange. The bolt expands when heated pushing out on the threads. As it cools, they shrink back and loosen up a bit. Here's the never fails part - as it cools, put wax on it. A old candle or canners parrafin works. The melting wax works in by capillary action(like a plumber sweating copper fittings). I have had complete rust piles spin out by hand doing this. Last but not least, if you wait til the head is already broken off, dont sweat it. Find a nut slightly smaller than the bolt and weld it to the broken bolt. Wire feed or arc works fine. Add wax as it cools and it spins right out. This usually works on steel bolts stuck in galled aluminum. Just get it hot enough to melt the wax, not the aluminum>



Dave