Exhaust Housing install

[Ewright]

Anybody got any suggestions for removing the housing to manifold bolts? I've been soaking them for days with everything from PB blaster to this 9. 00 a bottle stuff. Heat? Little frustrated, more power is sitting in a box on the floor. ERIC:{

 

[Greenleaf]

more power is sitting in a box on the floor.

The last one I did, I used the heat wrench to warm things up a bit. Manifold to head bolts included. Everything came apart just swell. Good luck!



Scott

 

[Ewright]

Heat and Bees Wax

I finally got the things loose. Used a propane torch and melted some bees wax into the threads, seemed to work really well. The other chore was getting the housing to come loose from the turbine, framing hammer on the old housing took care of that. I made the mistake of removing the oil drain pipe from the turbine, it was dark and I didn't see the pipe clamp down towards the engine, so I broke the seal and need a new gasket ( has to be ordered from the dealer, read: cheap part but multi day wait) So in a pinch I went to the local auto store and found a gasket that looked like it would work but leaks, so I'll be waiting. thanks for the help. Can anyone post a link to the pump tweaking recipes that were posted some time ago, i. e. how much star nut, rpm, etc. I found it once but can't find it again. So now the Old Smokey Mount sits on the floor while I wait for the filter to arrive. I've ordered the Baldwin (PA 2820) but I know someone posted a list of the alternative filters but can't seem to find it either, just in case the Baldwin takes too long. Eric

 

[dpuckett]

Eric,



I leave the T25 Torx backed out- no need to give it fuel until it has air to burn it. I have found the starwheel and pin taper adjustments to have a bigger effect than the "smoke screw". For power, turn the tapered pin till the deepest part faces the front of the engine, and turn the starwheel down till it bottoms out, then back it up 2-5 turns. For economy/ smoke reduction, turn the taper to about 3/4 from shallow to deepest, and tighten the starwheel about 3-4 turns down from the top of where the starwheel is even with the top of the "well. " THen you have the fullpower screw, which I would not recommend adjusting until you have a pyrometer, t-couple in the manifold- I saw a 400-500 deg in crease in peak EGT when I moved mine, and only 28 psi boost, far form the 1psi=10deg difference rule. Once you get the pyrometer on there, you can turn the power screw in a turn or two. You will mostlikely need to drop the idle speed back after that. I use a flat screw driver and tap on one side of the idle adjust screw to loosen and tighten the nut. ANd when you get guages, for gosh sakes, get a 40 psi guage; I can hit 36 psi with stock injectors and no intercooler.



Daniel