Archived exhaust system woes

[Jim S]

I am in the middle of changing my exhaust to a 4" stainless diesel pro system and they didn't show which direction to install the muffler. They are closed today so I can't get any tech help. Any ideas one end is wide open and the other has an inner and outer tube.

Thanks

 

[Bob Wagner]

can you post a picture or a link? is it a baffle?

 

[Jim S]

I can't break loose the downpipe now anyway if you have any suggestions that would be helpful. I will see about posting a picture.

 

[KYLE4]

Get some penetrating lube liquid wrench and hose the downpipe bolts let it sit take a break, does the manufacture have a internet site you might find it there.

 

[Jim S]

Thanks



www.dieselpro.net but I didn't see any faq

I am letting the bolts but sti;; no luck. Can't get any leverage from underneath.

 

[BTighe]

could you maybe put the first half of the system together then see what way the muffler flows more. just an idea. i dont know much about that stuff though, just triing to help.

 

[JPike]

if you have an impact, try to tighten first and than loosen, do this a few times. pb plaster seem to be the best thing to loosen bolts. if memory serves correct when helping a friend of mine the side w/ the "inset" goes on the inlet side, i think it has to do with the baffling.

 

[Jim S]

Thanks will try again tomorrow to get the bolts free

 

[rkressg]

When I took my exhaust off, I was able to get a combo wrench directly on the bolts at the elbow. It might allow for more leverage to grab the bolt there, instead of using 3' of extension and a socket.

-Rich

 

[ata]

Got a Butane or Propane torch. Spray the Penetrating oil on the bolts and then heat it. Repeat it a couple of times and then try removing the bolts with the elbow real hot.

 

[QZ]

I used an air ratchet on my 2004. 5 to install the exaust brake. It is not a bad idea to replace the nyloc nuts after removeing them, sometimes they are a onetime show. If you don't have an air ratchet try a longer combo wrench after the pen-oil.

Can you see any louvers inside the muffler? They should face back. Who knows, If you put it on backwards you may get better results anyways!

Some of the after market stuff is a crap shoot for instuctions, or tech info.

If you call you may get some gal in India to walk you through it. At least you have the TDR.



GOOD LUCK, WISEGUY

 

[Joe Mc]

This'll work - Did for me anyway

Sorry for the long post - I've been deprived over the past week with a lack of a PC due to issues with the wonderful world of "Windows ala Billy".



Mine had 125k on when I removed the stock exhaust. Small torch - heat up nuts (not those one's - sorry couldn't resist) then while they're still hot aim the penetrating fluid into the thread area of the stud - the heat sucks the fluid right up between both parts. Or if you don't have a torch start engine to get everything warm just watch out cause you can get burned and do the same with fluid. I took a bunch of 1/2 drive extensions & my trusty old Craftsman electric impact and did it from the bottom.



Not trying to be a "know it all", just sharing what I learned some time ago - if a fastener is stuck it reacts better to sudden impact Vs. constant pressure - especially if it is rusted and or heat/rusted. Sudden impact shocks it into loosing - constant pressure promotes breakage of the bolt/stud. Also, the theory of heating it up then dowsing it with penetrating fluid is mainly to allow a capillary action (sucking up) of the fluid into the threaded area where it's needed most. One more, once you get it moving - keep it moving until it's all the way off using plenty of penetrating fluid - the heat created while removing is so much that if you stop it can seize/weld the fastener and then you're stuck.



As far as which way to install the muffler - if it has little "cup like" things sticking out inside the exhaust flow area - I'd make sure they were facing out. Facing them towards the flow may produce too much back pressure and turbulence otherwise - not what we are attempting to do with a 4" system - right.



You haven't gotten this far yet but, I have 305X70s & the spare is the same size located in the stock location with a 4" Magnaflow system. It will fit between the spare, frame, springs and even leave some space so nothing touches when you're done - it just takes five hands (did it all by myself in the driveway - no help around) and the electric impact made quick work of tightening up those clamps.



For $100 that impact has paid for itself 10X over in the past 20+ years I've had it.



Good luck - let us know how you made out.

 

[Jim S]

well I bought a 20" 1/2 inch drive extension today and used it with my 10" and 18" breaker bar. That did the trick. I installed the exhaust and it sounds great. One problem though, neither the down pipe nor the long pipe between it and the muffler were flanged. I had to cut slots in the long pipe and pound it on the downpipe so it would be driveable. Will call deiselpro tomorrow to see about getting a coupler and another clamp. Other than that it is real sweet. I'll post pictures when I can in the products and accessories forum.

Thanks for all the help.



P. S.

I installed the muffler with the baffle to the inlet side. I test drove it and it ran just as good as before. Really couldn't tell a difference except my EGT was a little lower.

 

[ThomasLawrence]

Too late now, but instead of cutting and deforming the pipe, you should have used some stainless steel band clamps - NAPA carries them. They're made to connect two pieces together in a butt joint. I have one connecting my downpipe to the rest of the exhaust. They seal up very well - no leaks. NAPA also carries similar clamps for slip-joint connections (instead of using the saddle clamps that crimp the pipe and make it impossible to remove).



-Tom

 

[Jim S]

Too late now, but instead of cutting and deforming the pipe, you should have used some stainless steel band clamps - NAPA carries them. They're made to connect two pieces together in a butt joint. I have one connecting my downpipe to the rest of the exhaust. They seal up very well - no leaks. NAPA also carries similar clamps for slip-joint connections (instead of using the saddle clamps that crimp the pipe and make it impossible to remove).



-Tom

The exhaust system came with those nice band clamps for the slip joints. NAPA was closed when I ran into problems so I didn't have a chance to see what they had to help. I needed my truck to be operational so I cut the pipe. I talked to the guy at performance truck and they are sending me a piece with flare's on both ends and another band clamp. This should do the trick. They also told me the direction of flow for the muffler, I installed it correctly (thanks to the posts here). This is a really nice system and I got great customer service from dieselpro.net

 

[jdooner]

Exhaust woes

JimS. . congratulations on your installation! Mine didn't fare so well. No trouble getting the old one off. Lots of trouble getting the new one on. After the muffler rolled off the jackstands and hit me in eye, I said to heck with it and had a muffler shop finish the installation. Much easier

Jerry