external trans fluid filter

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on the "old" site, Craig Scholl had a good-sounding setup shopping list for an external atf filter,---Cummins place has a variety of filter headers and filters that might be useful, but I want to make sure to get a combination that would take the pressure, temps, and still have both good flow volume and sufficient filtering to keep the fluid clean---plan to do valve-body and Mag-hytec,and replace the internal filter w/ an old-fashioned brass screen,then never need pan off again #ad

so i've got a short series of questions

1 micron size?
2 gpm flow rate?
3 max reasonable psi (so I can ask for something that exceeds it by @ least 30-50%)
4 teflon OK or not, for thread seals, or is something else better?

thanks in advance---rich

 

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I have almost no personal knowledge about this subject. A local trqansmission shop owner incourages external filters. He sells a piddily. A discussion in the old 2nd generation forum (before the split between 24v and 12v) led me to look for and buy a Cross 10 micron 20gpm filter for installation. This filter is used in a number of applications including log splitters. I haven't installed it yet, since I have only had the new truck since last friday and haven't figured out where I am going to put it. I have no idea what the in-pan filter is supposed to filter out. Do a forum search for Cross. I believe it was member Mr. Garret who posted the info about the filter.

 

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is a piddiddly anything like an oodle, or a fraction thereof??

 

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External filter is good idea, the problem is the flow rate of your trans is only 4. 2-4. 7 gpm. Most filters have a by-pass of 15 or 25 psi. We will be testing a couple of washable filters let you in 2-3 weeks.

 

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did some calls around town. went over to Cummins shop (Cummins Intermtn, Las Vegas) and was shown the catalog--only filter-mount header specifically intended for trannies was for Allison applications ---get this! 1-5/16" inlet+outlet and nearly 2qt fluid canister filter!!! #ad
overkill even by my standards! for $71 w/o any plumbing pieces and still gotta get the filter ($16)

did some other phone calls-- wound up ordering a "hot-rod" setup from B&M thru my local PepBoys store-- should arrive w/in 5 working days, and be installed before March---I assume the race cars need fast fluid movement at high pressures, and that ours need high volumes at somewhat lower pressures, so the mount will work, and the only variable would be filter choice--this "kit" contains all the goodies (we shall see) for install and includes first filter. w/tax and $7. 50 spcl order charge was just shy of $51. ----hot-rod guys, any opinions?

 

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Guys,
i have one on my rig, that cost $50, including the filter, rated at 150 PSI, 60 GPH flow, 10 micron filter. comes in two sizes, anyone interested email me for the details.

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95-2500-ExtCab-LB-4x4-Auto-AMSoil Air Filter, Bypass Oil Filter by others, AMSOIL and Mobil Synthetics, TST 255HP and TransGO Shift kit .

 

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I bought a B&M one. ( I wish I had got a log splitter one as the ports are bigger. )
I mounted it horizontally on the cross member below the radiator. (My Amsoil bypass is on the other side). I built a 1/4" steel skidplate to fit underneat the two of them to protect them.

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96 4X4 club cab-12v-auto-3. 54 gears-Amsoil bypass filter - all Amsoil fluids-trans filter-britebox-shelfit-DeeZee boards-Rhino liner-Rancho 5 speed shocks-Hellwig rear antisway & overload springs-Warn 12000 lb. winch-dual redtop optimas-combo gauge and trans. temp gauge in pillar mount-255/85R16 Kelly MSR tires

 

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josparks--you've got the B+M unit?--I see your port-size comment, and "I hear ya bruddah", but is the B+M's giving you any flow trouble, or are you in an overkill frame of mind, like is, I suspect, quite predictable for dieselram drivers anyway?---hasn't arrived yet,BTW #ad


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98 12-valve qc2500 4x4/kill-switch, K&N,silencer ring hanging in garage,600amp quick-connect jumper cables, 4"straight-thru w/nasty 5" chrome slant-cut outlet,PrimeLoc,Warn Front receiver,100Watt Rally Eclipse offroad(uh-huh) lights, 19. 5"Ricksons w/Goodyear Unisteel "UPS Truck" tires, camper shell, Westin step-rail/nerf bars, diamond-plate rail caps, bedliner,ATF dipstick bungee(modified porky system),12-V weatherproof outlet hidden inside rear 1/4-panel, B&M remote trans fluid filter on order, Tazmanian Devil mudflaps and floormats--"%$*#)%$^#"-(translation:"TAZ LIKE DIESEL")

 

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1) While I am not totally familiar with the system of metrics of which oodle is a part, I believe a piddil approx. = oodle/10.

In this case the filter was a plastic thingamajig about 2 1/2" in diameter with 3/8 male ferrules on each end. Similar in appearance to an after-market fuel filter but black fiber/resin in construction.

2) I still haven't installed the Cross "Log splitter" filter yet 'cause I am wrestling with how to mount it. The Filter "head" (the casting which has the ports on it and to which the spin on filter mates) appears to be cast aluminum. (it is not ferrous as determined by a magnet). The mounting provisions which are part of the unit consists of two 1/4-20 female threaded receptacles, these are oriented such that the filter would normally be suspended below the head (ala our oil filters) I would like to mount it horizontaly as others have discussed but am concerned that the threaded mounting holes and aluminum casting would not long survive in our vibration environment when cantilevered (sp) the supplied filter looks as those it holds about a quart, that would be pretty heavy. In any event, I think I am going to have to make some sort of bracket.

Any thoughts on this?

BTW, for those who would be satisfied with monitoring trany oil temp after the oil/coolant exchanger and before the oil/air exchanger -- the Cross unit has 1/8 npt receptacles built in. Also, the ports on the head are 3/4 npt making it very easy to adapt down to the 1/2" internal diameter Hyd. hose.

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2001 SLT Auto,White,camper/towing options Line-x over-rail liner, Oem black molded running boards, Powervision mirrors, Black Bug deflector (with eyebrows) Oem CD radio, Dash Carpet, Black louvered tailgate, 5th wheel Hitch. Road ranger 27 ft. trailer, WONDERFUL WIFE of 43 years, (she didn't fuss over the exchange of the '96 for the '01) and two poodles for the back seat. Guages and "real" sheepskin (charcoal) seatcovers coming real soon. No bombing planned, --well maybe -- 275 hp injectors someday.

Yes, Rob I will edit this signature in a few days but, I just had to do it.

[This message has been edited by Nelson Buck (edited 02-06-2000). ]

[This message has been edited by Nelson Buck (edited 02-06-2000). ]

 

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I have not had any noticeable problems with the B&M mount.
One proplem I did have was the plastic insert quick release connectors between the raadiator and the steel lines going to the transmission.
I took some tie wire and wrapped about the plastic part. Then I took a small hose clamp and put it on the steel line, and clamped the tie wire underneath. No way can it come apart now by accident.

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96 4X4 club cab-12v-auto-3. 54 gears-Amsoil bypass filter - all Amsoil fluids-trans filter-britebox-shelfit-DeeZee boards-Rhino liner-Rancho 5 speed shocks-Hellwig rear antisway & overload springs-Warn 12000 lb. winch-dual redtop optimas-combo gauge and trans. temp gauge in pillar mount-255/85R16 Kelly MSR tires

 

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hey, nelson b----horizontal mount might not be bad, so long as you support the end of the filter casing, maybe even with something as simple as a large hose-clamp suspended from a piece of the frame with a small ratchet strap, not too tight, not too loose, just check for saggage periodically,. the header has checkvalves, right? i don't know how immediate the lube demand is, but drystart really sounds unappetizing---rich

 

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Rich M. ,

Thanks for your suggestion. You did address another issue I hve been thinking about.

I really don't know whether there is a check valve in the filter head on the "Cross" It doesn't seem to be a problem as the oil, upon start up, would come from the Trany oil pan.

What I have been thinking about is the nearly quart of oil of oil I would be "short" upon installation and or filter change if I installed it horizontally. A vertical installation would allow for prefill of the filter at installation similiar to the process we should (and I do) of prefilling the new oil filter when changing it out.

BTW, members, I took my truck up to the folks who were going to put the proposed in-line "T" fitting in my transmission output oil pipe for a temp. sensor location yesterday. When I saw how they proposed to do it, (Hacksaw a section of the pipe out and span it with a "T" fitting with compression fittings, all while on the truck) I chickened out. That is a darn long piece of pipe the only support for which is the fitting on the transmission and the fitting at the input of the oil/water heat exchanger. I don't know what the pressures are in that pipe when under heavy load, but I decided I didn't want to worry about it. Hence, while it will not be as informative, my present plan is to put the sensor in the "cross" filter head as Mr. Garrett suggested sometime ago. "Trends" should still be observable.

 

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Have had my Cross filter in my truck for at least 2 years, bolted up horizontally to a cross member behind the left side of the front bumper. So far, I have never had any loosness or suport problems, it's just not that heavy. I did use some good hard, allen head screws, & two good lock washers. I guess if you were still worried about it you could use a drop of "Locktite" too. With my temp sensor in the Cross housing, I'm getting 10-15 deg. higher readings, than when I had it in the test port on the right side of the trans, just above the lip of the pan. I do like the extra quart or so of capacity it gives me too... . DDG

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Locomotive Engineer/Red Ram Driver! 97,2500,Auto,3:54,2WD,Re-sale Red,Loaded w/Leather, Diamond Tread running boards & box, Bumper guards,"Bull Ring" tie-downs, Front bumper guards, Clearance lights,TST 230 HP kit, K&N, Combo exhaust temp & boost gauge, Eng. & Trans. temp gauges. 3 Pos. Lock up switch.

 

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Originally posted by Dennis Garrett:
Have had my Cross filter in my truck for

Skip .....

Dennis, thanks for the info. If it wasn't raining like heck I would go crawl under the truck and look for your mounting location. My mental image is that that the long axis of the filter (as mounted) is parallel to the long axis of the truck, that is, the closed end of the filter canister is pointing to the front of the truck. Do I have it right?

My paranoia wasn't so much about the mounting screws themselves remaining in place as it was the aluminum casting of the filter head withstanding the environment.

Guess I am just a wimp.

When you initially installed, did you just add a quart and then adjust from there?

I could have used e-mail but I thought every one would appreciate your responses as this looks like something of more than just passing interest.

 

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Here's a poor picture of my Cross filter & housing location. I laid the camera on the concrete, and took it straight up. The domed, closed end of the filter faces the rear of the truck, and the housing bolts to the cross member behind the front bumper. I've had it here for a couple of years, and have had no problems, just a little seepage here & there which is normal. If you look close, you can see the black & white wires going to the temp probe... ..... DDG http://members. aol.com/ddgarr/filter.jpg

 

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Dennis,

Ohhhhhhh, O. K. ! the filter "intrudes" aft into the engine compartment, huh?

Honestly, I've been trying to figure out how the heck you got it between the bumper and the cross-member, as distinquished from occupying space aft of the cross-member.

BTW, where did you get/what is -- the hose fitting that appears to connect directly to the transmission line pipe permitting attachment of a hose with a hose clamp? (right side of photo about 4/5ths from the bottom of photo) I assume it is some kind of hose barb that substitutes or marries up to the Dodge interface between pipe and hose which caused grief for some '96 auto owners.

Nelson


[This message has been edited by Nelson Buck (edited 02-13-2000). ]

 

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I pulled the plastic clip connections off the metal lines. They have a crimp band to hold them on to the rubber lines. I hack sawed the crimp band off, and saved the barbed connector that is in the end of the hose. I got some 1/2" transmission hose, stuck the barbed center piece in it, and used good, wide stainless clamps in place of the crimp band. The other end of the trans hose has the barbed fittings that go to the filter housing... ... . DDG

 

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To the Top for a member with questions in re temp sesor location in 24v forum.

Nelson