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Extra Fuel Filtration

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Anyone installed a fuel filter and/or water seperator similar to this on their truck?



Thinking of pulling the trigger as the OEM filter is a PITA.
 
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I put a xx on my 06' which I sold and put one on my 08'



XX-Fuel Diesel Fuel Filtration Systems



I liked their bracket system better. I'm not at all mechanical but I installed it myself. It is tough to get the hoses on but I am very happy with their system



I change my xx and my stock fuel filters every 20,000 miles, I really like the water seperator/bowl



I'm sure glacier is a great system, I just like the xx bracket better
 
I would not call the F2 OEM filter a POS by any stretch of the imagination; that being said I like the GDP kits, but realize that any of the aftermarket kits with a Fleetguard will have the same 5um rating your current OEM filter does.

The Donaldson P551313 fits where the FF5320 does and is rated 2um, the Glacier kits are easy to install and are top quality for a great price.
 
I would not call the F2 OEM filter a POS by any stretch of the imagination; that being said I like the GDP kits, but realize that any of the aftermarket kits with a Fleetguard will have the same 5um rating your current OEM filter does.



The Donaldson P551313 fits where the FF5320 does and is rated 2um, the Glacier kits are easy to install and are top quality for a great price.



Who called it a POS?



The Glacier kit claims 2um if I'm not mistaken, with a Fleetguard. Or am I misreading it?
 
Haha. . hadn't had enough coffee when I read PITA, for some reason POS stuck in my mind.

I wouldn't remove the OEM filter, just stick others before or after it.

It's a "2um" filter, but rated 5um absolute. There are no 2um absolute filters, 3um is the best you can get.
 
Gotcha.

I was considering using the dual filter only and removing the OEM filter... I've talked to a couple of guys (one with an '06) and they love their set up. Of course, they also have a FASS/AD setup, not just filters.
 
Those filters will do better than AD, and similar to FASS Platinum/Titanium.

When you remove the OEM setup you lose your WIF light and fuel heater.
 
Considering I live in S. Louisiana... I don't think a fuel heater will matter too terribly much!

Thanks for the feedback.
 
I believe XX sells a WIF sensor for their setup with the wiring to splice into the stock WIF wiring so the dash light will still work.
 
here is a better setup that cost $60 for parts and filters, not as pretty but better

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we mount the filters just forward of the fuel tank. we run a fleet of dodges and recently installed one on a 06. there is two bolts through the floor board for a rear seat option at this location. some of our trucks use them others do not. get a 2" x 3" piece of angle iron 6" long. make a card board template that the two bolts and keeper nuts will go through hold the template on the inside against the 2" part and drill the two holes they will be about 5/8" i think and about 3 7/8 " between. center the holes on the 2" and near the edge on the 2" hold the angle iron over the bolts with the 3"part the furtherest away from the tank and drill a 1/4" hole between the two holes, keep drilling through the floor board. now after you mount the filters to the angle iron just simply mount it with a 1/4 grade 8 bolt. this is the only hard part the other items is easy. the total time including building the bracket is about 1 1/2 hours. i will give you napa numbers but they can cross reference to wix or car quest. the two bases are 4770 the water separator pre filter is 3374 if you think you must have a drain on the separator use 3406 the 2 micron filter is 3674. use a 3/8" nipple with about 1/2" space in the middle connect the two bases together observing the in and out. because of this the mounting plate on one filter base is about 1" further out than the other. install two 90* 3/8" barbed fittings on the bases and temporary bolt the angle iron up and hold the filters up to it. make sure everything clears and mark the one base that touches the plate to drill the three holes to mount the filters. next cut the feed fuel line at this location and bend the lines out a little and install 3/8 hose over the lines and to the barbed fittings. i put a small amount of flair on the steel lines. but i do not think it is necessary. Bleed the air out through the stock filter before trying to start it. use a gauge and do not change the filters until you see a four pound drop this should be about every 150,000 miles and the stock filter will never need to be changed. Cheapest place is Wix Filter Bases: FleetFilter Secure Online Store



your filter base has two inlets and two outlets on each base be careful to connect the nipple between the outlet of the first filter to the inlet of the second. only one of the bases get's the bolts as the offset places the second base about a inch away from the plate. we use to make spacers on the first ones and then decided they were not needed

jason the cp3 will put out full power with input pressure from 22 psi to a minus 5 psi. this is from Bosch recommended speck. Bosch told Chrysler not to go above 5 microns on the filter because of wear. you have a 10 micron filter. the larger cr engines and the 5. 9 industrial use 2 micron filters we run a fleet of dodges and the first 03 we got had all kinds of problems with the injectors. Bosch worked with us to find the problem. once we started using the new filter setup we have never had another problem. i stock a huge amount of filters for my equipment and to start with i used what i had in stock and modified a cheap steel base to accept the filter i wanted to use. over the last 8 years we have refined our selection to two filters and found bases that cost more but do not require lathe work. we have it down now to a one hour total time to build and install cost even with the expensive bases is about $60. you will never have to replace the stock filter and depending where you get your fuel you can get up to 200,000 miles between filter change.

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xx-fuel has done extensive research on adding dual fuel filters and their kit installs nice and easy... . we tried running with the stock filter in place and ends up too restrictive. best thing is it is not under the hood where the fan is blowing HOT air straight onto the filters! wtf?
 
best thing is it is not under the hood where the fan is blowing HOT air straight onto the filters! wtf?

Haha... that's the main reason I want my final filter up there, much better than the wind blowing COLD air on it. If you want colder fuel put a piece of insulation on it, then it will stay closer to the same temp (45-75 is where the heater tries to keep it).
 
they are all about the same on filtering. i disagree with the stock filter removal, several of my 06's still has the factory installed stock filter in them. it comes down to looks. i do not care how it looks. i just want the best with the least maintenance. my thoughts are no one is going to crawl around on the ground to look under the truck to see how pretty it is under there.
 
I continued to run the stock filter on my 06' and now my 08' with the xx,



I was just curious CKelley1 and your comment about crawling around and pretty brought a smile to my face remembering the install :) , I actually hired the xx installed on my 06' but put in on my 08' myself



I read the instructions which were simple enough for me to understand, I was able to take a one hour job and turn it into 5 hours, :-laf I'm not mechanical at all but the installation looked simple enough for me to try



years ago I spent forever putting a swingset together for the kids only to determine at the end I had put braces on backwards and had to take the whole damm thing apart, flip the braces and put it back together again



thanks for everyone's thoughts
 
I agree except that fuel shouldnt be heated unless real cold out... . have done dyno tests and noticed power drop off when fuel heats up... . looking at the placement of the glacier diesel setup makes me wonder how hot the fuel is going into the cp3 when towing
 
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