Extra temp gauge?

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Is there a good place in the engine to add a sending unit for a water temp gauge? I noticed a plug in the block under the water inlet behind the alternater that looks like it might be what I am looking for, it has a 1/2" square removal hole in it, has any body done this? My stock gauge has failed and if the repair on it goes anything like the rest of the electrical systems many repairs I cant afford to do anything except go around the stock set up. This computer controlled system sucks.

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96 SLT Laramie CC 5spd, 3. 54, no muff, no cat, 5"turn down tip
80gal fuel capacity. BD Brake, EGT,Boost + fuel pressure gauges. Member NRA/USPSA

[This message has been edited by Deezul 1 (edited 10-08-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

Deezul,

I have an aftermarket (Autometer) mechanical water temp gauge. Was not sure where to install the probe either. Cummins said the 1/2" NPT plug you are asking about would be a poor location because its the water pump outlet which is the coolest temp of the whole system.

Cummins recommended using one of the two, 1/2" NPT plugs near the t-stat. That was a lot of help. One is being used to feed the heater core, and the other has the one-way check valve for bleeding air from the system when refilling.

Screw it. I took out the one-way check valve and installed my temp probe. Also need to plug the 1/4" port on the T-stat housing. No need to drain any coolant.

What I found was now the T-Stat opened at 190 degrees on the OEM gauge (NEVER saw it that high) and the cycling STOPPED completely. Runs around 180 degrees. I have no idea why this happened. I drove in hot weather and couldn`t really get the temp up any higher than 180. I thought I may be restricting the flow some how, but it seems to be to the advantage. I wish I had done this long ago.

Temp gauge was defective, so I had to pull it . Plugged the port it was in. Absolutely no difference in temp or anyhing with the bypass system disabled. Same old cycling as with it hooked up. I really don`t think it does much.

I had to drain the cooling system for the Espar heater, so I hooked the bypass back up to bleed any air that might be trapped, to be on the safe side.

When I get time I will put the gauge back in the one-way valve port and plug the T-stat housing.

Depending on where you mount your gauge, I found the 6 foot probe was too short. Had to go with the 12 foot.

Take Care

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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 10-08-2000). ]

 

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Hemi Dart
Thanks, that was a great help. Exactly what I needed. Gauge going in tomorrow
John

 

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Deezul 1,

If you are going to use the above port to mount your thermocouple in , make sure it does not butt up against the T-Stat when tightened down.

I just got finished re-installing mine. I used a gravy baster to suck the coolant out of the one way check valve hole so I could see whats at the bottom.

The thermostat is visible at the bottom of the hole. The end that has the little washer and the little spring. My temp gauge probe butts up against the T-stat when tightened down. Not much, but evidently enough to hold it shut just a tad longer and stop the cycling.

This now looks like a bad idea. I drove for 3 months with it like that and it was fine. I liked the non cycling t-stat and overall higher coolant temps.

If you are using a mechanical Autometer temp gauge make sure the probe is not hitting the t-stat. You would probably notice the T-stat is opening later and the cycing will have stopped. Engine will hold about 180 degrees and stay put. Thses gauges have a good sized thermocouple. An electric gauge probably wouldn`t give you any trouble. The sending units are generally smaller.

I just added another bushing to raise it 1/8" and the probe is not contacting the t-stat when tourqed down.


Check yours #ad

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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 12-03-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

If your not using the stock sender, why not use that location? It's driver side rear block below head mating surface. You might have to pick up a bushing at the hardware store to fit the aftermarket sender, I did.

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1972 Chinook class C with 96/215 5spd, 4/5" exh, 4"BD, MagHytec, 85gal fuel, K&N RE0880, AutoMeter, 370's, BD gov kit, BD afc kit, 16cm, 16%btdc, yada-yada-yada
www.fostertruck.com/cummins

 

[Archive]

I found out the gauge was ok, the thermostat stuck open and the engine runs so cool the gauge didnt register. All fixed now.
Thanks Guys

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96 SLT Laramie CC 5spd, 3. 54, no muff, no cat, 5"turn down tip
80gal fuel capacity. BD Brake, EGT,Boost + fuel pressure gauges. Member NRA/USPSA

 

[Archive]

Deezul 1
Got to hear you T-Stat is working again. It surprised I didn`t notice the aftermarket temp probe contacing the T-Stat when it was installed. Careless on my part.

I do miss the steady 190 degree coolant temps & no cycling. #ad


Larry,
I wanted to leave the stock temp guage hooked up. Also isn`t it a bear to get back there where the OE temp sensor is. I had to put an Ohm meter on it once. I could barely reach or see it.

Also the mechanical temperature probes are good sized. I needed at least a 1/2" NPT hole to mount it. I think the OE sending unit port is probably 1/8" NPT.

Did you mount your new Turbo exhaust housing yet?

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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.