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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Extreme oil loss....

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Hows it going, nice to be on this site agin, its been a few years. . I bought a 96 3500 4x4 5spd ex. cab. 12v with the 215pump. . The truck has 150k on it and i bought it to build. My problem is that after about a month with the truck it started going through about 4qts every week. i was only driving about 250 miles a week. I would park the truck go work all day and come out and it looked like i dumped a qt of oil on the front rear. I know some leak a little there but that seemed like alot. the tailgate also has oil on it. I recently moved back to houston from baltimore and pulled my jeep on a 20ft trailer running about 70mph the whole way. Now it seems that the problem is gone. Ive been here about 3 months, and i might have burned a 1/2qt. any ideas. .
 
Look at the front right hand side of your motor on the side of the timing case. You may be a victim of the KDP (Killer Dowel Pin). It's a dowel pin used that on occasion will fall out and the timing gear will bust it through the case. Do a search for dowel pin or KDP and you can read for hrs. Pray that it's not the KDP. If it isn't then do the tab fix soon to make sure it doesn't get you later.



Could be front main seal but I doubt it'll go through that much oil. Mine leaked bad and I never had to add. If you do a front main, do the KDP at the same time.



Mike
 
Thanks, Sorry i didnt include that in there. I have already checked for the kdp and front main, those were my first thoughts. Theres no oil outside the block, no leaks any where. Its like its internal. Im not sure if theres bad blow by, or a clogged oil passage, etc. I know the kdp problem, I had a 97 2500 4x4 that i had replaced the kdp, #10 plate, afc, intake, exhaust, injectors, etc. . The truck i have know is 100% stock until 2 weeks ago i added a #10 plate and afc spring, and straight piped the exhaust. Im just not understanding why or what would cause this this problem to start and stop just as suddenly.
 
How many miles on the truck? Any chance the blowby tube had any obstruction?



Did you change the oil around the time it quit. Could the filter have been leaking.



My '89 (years ago) was dumping vast quantities of oil out the rear main when I bought it. The previous owner had synthetic oil in it. I changed the oil to good ol' Rotella T and the leak stopped. Can't explain it but that's how it happened.
 
Im not real sure. I have changed the oil, but im running rottella. its the same thing the previous owned had been running. anythings possible i guess. its just kinda strange that after i moved down here it stopped. I guess i shouldnt worry about it, but i plan on building this engine and im worried about the lower end. I guess i should just cross that bridge when i get there.
 
Mine leaks on the front, and I think it is a bad seal on the timing cover... from what I understand, the gaskets on the timing cases are just like RTV, no formal gaskets, so therefore, after heat, years, and miles, they break down, causing you to sweat horsepower all over the place. . I cannot even park Black Betty in the driveway at my mother's house when I come to visit... She has to stay out on the street! You may want to check that out though, and maybe hit up the car wash if your motor is cold, blast off the oil, and look for fresh leaks. . Hope this may help you!



-Chris-
 
Chris gave good advice - on a cool engine - clean it up real good and then run it. If it really comes down to it - add UV dye to the engine oil and shine a UV light all over the place.



Check the area above the power steering/vacuum pump - by the timing pin. The gasket between the gearcase and the engine block likes to split and work its way out on some engines. My old '98 QC/12-valve was like this when I bought it and it was a LOT of fun to replace that gasket... pulling the camshaft and everything. :)



Beers,



Matt
 
Thanks for the ideas guys, ill look and see what i can find. I might just go ahead and pull the engine out and rebuild now. I wanted to build it pretty soon anyway. I had planned to do the kdp, cam, and firering the head. I guess while im there i might as well hone or bore and put new pistons and rings in it while im there. Just thought i wouldnt need to since it just turned 150k on the truck.
 
Thanks for the ideas guys, ill look and see what i can find. I might just go ahead and pull the engine out and rebuild now. I wanted to build it pretty soon anyway. I had planned to do the kdp, cam, and firering the head. I guess while im there i might as well hone or bore and put new pistons and rings in it while im there. Just thought i wouldnt need to since it just turned 150k on the truck.



Whaaattt :eek:. 150k is like a new motor man. I just had the head off mine for o-rings with 245k and still had a nice cross hatch in all cylinders with no glazing. You must be planning on building for some big hp (600+) otherwise I'd say you'll be wasting $$ with boring, pistons, rings etc. Just my backyard $0. 02.



Mike
 
If the truck had poor maintenance, was overheated, etc. then it could already be tiring at 150k. With good care & maintenance it should still be pretty fresh. Could just be a faulty vacuum pump or poor seal on the turbo causing the oil consumption.

My '96 went through a phase of high oil consumption around 365k miles. I ran a heavy dose of engine flush through it and changed the oil and consumption dropped dramatically. At 408k though it does use a little oil, about a quart every 1000-1500 miles.

Vaughn
 
When i start the build ill keep yall updated... plenty of pics. If anyone has ideas on how to build or what to use to make a reliable 600+ hp street truck that can still haul around 15k pounds when needed please let me know. Or parts that have been used that you wouldnt run. I plan on running twins, cam, stupid pump, firering the head, stage 3 head, and does any one know where to find 5" dual kit for a 96 3500 4x4. . ?
 
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