EZ Boost elbow - how does it work?

[John Berger]

Been meaning to post this since last week. How does the boost elbow prevent the wastegate from cutting off boost. A "side by side" comparison of the stock elbow and the EZ elbow shows what looks like a valve setup in the EZ elbow. This looks more restrictive, yet I know it's not. A little technical help is in order here. Thanks to any and all takers.

John

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1999 Dodge Ram 3500 Quad Cab 2wd; 5 spd; 4:10 LSD rear; Mag-Hytec differential cover; US Gear EGT and Boost gauges. Stewart Warner Fuel Pressure Gauge with dual senders, Westach Oil Temp Gauge for differential. Amsoil foam air filter and synthetics in the motor and differential. Cummins Power, don't leave home without it

 

[LSMITH]

The elbow that comes with the EZ has a bleed orifice to let some of the pressure off the wastegate actuator. Less pressure getting to the actuator means it opens at a higher pressure than before.

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99 2500 QC 4X4 AUTO SB 24V LARAMIE SLT 3. 5 LSD 285-75-16'S SPA Boost/EGT Rancho 9000's Everything but leather NRA Member Great Lakes TDR Member

 

[Bad340fish]

It looks more complicated than it is. It takes 20PSI to start opening the wastegate. You will also notice a small hole in the new elbow. Well that small hole allows a little air to escape and not make it to the wastegate. So it takes longer to build the 20psi in that line to open the wastegate.

Its awful primitive but it works OK. My truck rockets to 20PSI but the other 6 it pulls takes a little longer, I imagine its becuase the wastegate is still trying to open just not as fast as before. Have fun!

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Clark
1999 2500 QC SB 5spd, EZ, Flowmaster 3 chamber, K&N Re-0880
1968 Barracuda Formula S Viper Blue 11. 98@112 Currently scattered all over the garage

 

[waterbrain]

There's been alot of discussion on how to accomodate the HY35 with the hardline. If all the EZ elbow does is let off some pressure (little hole in the elbow) then wouldn't it work just dandy to drill a little hole in the hardline of the HY35 and accomplish the same thing? If you were able to place the hole in an inconspicuous place, it would still be pretty stealth for those working to keep their warantees. I'm still trying to decide how to set mine up.

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2001. 5 2500, QuadCab, 4X4, LB, Auto, 3. 55, SLT+. Mods: EZ, 275's, Rhino Liner.

 

[RichB59]

The turnbuckle method seems to work great I'm getting 31 lbs boost. It's easy to do and completely reverseable.

Rich

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20yr Mopar Parts Manager,"June of 2000" 2001 quad cab,2wd,auto,Camper pkg,354 LSD rear axle,Raven Magnum 8' cap. Mag Hitech trans pan. Isspro gauges pyro,trans and boost Apillar mount. Amsoil air filter. No muff!EZ Edge!!!! N. R. A. member

 

[KatDiesel]

Originally posted by waterbrain:
If you were able to place the hole in an inconspicuous place, it would still be pretty stealth for those working to keep their warantees. I'm still trying to decide how to set mine up.

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One thing maybe you didn't think about, once you drill that hole. . its there. So if you take off whatever your using for a boost module, you will still get the same amount of boost (well close to it) because you have the wastegate "Defeated physically". So you will set off "overboost" code left and right, and the dealer will try to track that down... ... . So I would recomend the . 22 Shell method, or the turnbuckle method, or Stakemans spring method (which is what I use). None of these leave a trace and can all be removed easily.

Do a search and you'll see the "methods" i have mentioned.