EZ oil drain plug

[AnOldBiker]

When I first installed my valve, I was told of a possible large amount of oil not draining and that I should look for this. I drained my oil normally and marked the pan of this level. (Note: the level was marked with the oil from the pan and what drained from the filter) I changed the filter and installed the valve.

The next time I drained the oil, I checked this with the mark from the prior change. The level was less than 1/8" from that level. I've had to kick myself because I changed filter companies that prior change and the filter was a taste longer. So I don't know if this lesser amount was due to the oil in the pan, left in the filter, used in the engine or what.

But with this level I do not consider this an issue. And with the mark on my drain pan from the level indicated from a stock pan plug drain, I can compare each change. If this was different, I'd recommend to cross drill like you said.

But I did help someone who had the drain valve opening well above the liquid level, but we had a nut that went over the threads and we ground two channels to that nut and rethreaded it by removing the nut, then installed. Works great.

 

[GAmes]

Maybe the bung isn't as tall in the newer engines. Those of us with P7100 injection pumps already have a qt of oil that doesn't drain when doing an oil change. Another qt in the bottom of the pan means 1/6th of the oil doesn't get changed. I can't mentally see what you are describing with the nut. Did you just install it over the valve threads to prevent the valve from threading in as far?

 

[AnOldBiker]

We had a 1/2 nut that was slightly thinner than the same thickness of the threaded opening on the pan. That would have brought the opening we put in it the same or slightly lower than the top of the pans threaded insert. Then we removed the 1/2 nut slowly to make the threads lay straight again. Like rethreading the threads. When installed, out openings were at the bottom of the pans fitting. If there was oil below this level, it was the same as original and nothing has changed from stock. If the stock was at the bottom of the pan, than all was drained. We just didn't want to have the level higher than stock.

The problem with all this is if you don't remove the pan to see where the top of the stock welded on fitting stands verses the actual liquid level to the bottom of the pan, you never really know where the level is at or if you really improved it our not.

So I try to maintain the original level at minimum. If the pan is ever dropped, knowledge and major changes can actually be obtained.
Until then ?????


Also:
when I first installed my pan valve, I measures the height of the threads going into my pan verses the height of my valve threads. My threads on the valve would be at the same level of the pans top thread. So it was at the same level.

 

[GAmes]

OK, there wasn't a Fumoto or other commercial valve installed? You were just doing basically a normal oil change using a home made sort of valve??

 

[AnOldBiker]

It was replacing the stock plug with a Fumoto valve. Fit fine in my truck, but the pipe end stuck higher in my friends pan.

 

[Larry Willard]

I took a Fumoto plug out of one of my older trucks (think it was the '01) prior to trading and there was only a few additional drops of of to come out after a complete drain, so I feel there is no issue unless something has changed since that time.

 

[GAmes]

I guess what I'll have to do is take a picture of the inside of the pan. I doubt the '01 is any different than a 12 valve oil pan. All I can imagine is the holes in the bung had filled with sediment and were plugged.

 

[GAmes]

Pictures. First the bung with wires placed through the drain holes and a quarter for size reference. Note the bung sits atop a raised round portion of the pan's bottom.

Remember I said about a qt of oil? Here is 29 ounces of water. That is real close to a full qt.

 

[photowrite]

...and that is with the Fumoto (sp?) valve specifically?

 

[GAmes]

I think it would apply to any brand of plug that isn't removed (or loosened) from the pan to drain the oil. I don't know of any that come pre-drilled to utilize the holes in the bottom of the bung.

 

[Gumby79]

I have been using the fomoco(Geno's) for 2 years now in my 91.5 IC . In oct17 I lost my oil cooler . Made it to a shop that let me turn my own wrenches . Cooling system took on 2.5 ga of oil in 150mi(Ogden to Sicpio, Ut). The hole was a split plate (I think , it blew bubbles and that ment not HG or head /bock crack stoped looking no sings of corrosion or physical damage to the cooler/block) a 2 way hole. Oil out running and water in after shut down( 2hr after shut down I thought to open tbe radator cap to releave the cooling system pressure note to self do it sooner next time Aaaah) . I wound up with 2 qt of oil and 2 qt of water coming out of the pan. The water in the pan was not churned into the oil ( the motor had not been run since the first shut down after contamination issue occurred 3 days prior)and water came out first. The valve made it very easy to throttle the out flow to keep from sucking the oil out with the water (reducing the volume of contaminated oil/water for disposal). After repairs it took 12qt of oil to hit the full mark(the same fill volume as before/ after the valve upgrade). I think that had there been 1qt of water traped in the pan my oil would have milked up when I first started it . And probably would not have made the 3k mi to get me home by way of Las Vegas . The difference may be that I have a late 1st gen. I have not added holes driled into the valve.
I'll check in January when I get home(due for a change agen and out of town in the D50) for the 1 need for holes , 2 how much comes out after a full valve drain.

Ground clearance 2wd? Not good . The valve hangs down below the cross member. The stock plug came down even with the bottom of the cross member. If I hear some thing hit the cross member just reach over and turn it off as the pan is probably missing something important, brass shears easy.