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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) EZ with stock auto trans

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way down deep in another thread, I was advised by a fellow TDR member that I should hold off on the EZ until I upgrade the auto trans in my new truck.



Can someone elaborate on this.



What would I need to upgrade, the TC ?



And is this simply a result of the fact that the EZ will put too much power to the stock trans ?



What can I do to help the trans last longer ?



I just ordered a trans temp guage, as I figured it to be a good thing to have, especially since I have 4. 10's and almost need to use O/D even when towing.



Thanks for any thoughts.
 
If all you are adding is an EZ, I would just do it. The Auto transmission can handle the extra power. If you are going to add injectors and such later you will want to upgrade the transmission eventually.



A transmission upgrade can mean many things, ususally (and in my case) it meant a new torque converter and new valve body. There are also some other parts some vendors like to add and change but this is on a vendor by vendor basis. Do a search for DTT and ATS and you will find very long heated discussions on transmissions...



Good luck and Happy BOMBing!
 
Plenty of folks run the EZ on a stock transmission with no problem. With just the EZ I wouldn't worry about the transmission, unless you tow EXTREME loads. If do some more power upgrades then you'll need transmission work for sure.



transmission is hot button subject, do a search, you'll find all the info you'll need. You'll find enough transmission threads to read for the next few months:D



Glenn
 
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I agree that the stock auto can handle the relatively small increase in power that the EZ gives. But, the stock auto can be much much better. Three basic problems with it - the stall speed on the TC is too high, the fluid coupling efficiency is too low, and the valve body can be improved a great deal to increase ATF flow through the cooler at in park and at idle and to increase line pressure to help prevent the clutch packs from slipping. Now as to whose products to use, you'll have to do your homework. There are passionate souls from all camps who would steer you in only their direction. You can see what I have in the signature - it has held up to 25,000 miles of 450 HP abuse.
 
I did not like the way the stock auto shifted with the EZ set on the default setting which adds fuel at 3lbs. of boost. IMO, the extra power at low RPMs causes the transmission to up-shift too soon.



I run mine on setting #2 which does not add extra fuel till the boost is at 10psi. At 10psi of boost the RPMs and line pressure are higher and the extra power is not a big deal. I am very happy with my setup now and don't worry about upgrading the transmission like I used to. If the transmission breaks then I will upgrade.
 
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Repeat after me "I am my own warranty station". If you add the EZ, just make sure you have $3000 - $4000 to fix the damage. Do some searches you will get a real education on what bombing does to the auto's in our trucks. You have enough power to tow your 5er stock. If you want to bomb at least wait until your warranty is up unless you want to fix the auto transmission. Here is one example



MarkF





Registered: Dec 2001

Location: South Eastern MA

Posts: 75

27k, I know, barely broken in, but with EZ the stock TC slips under heavy throttle empty and of course towing. Gonna go with a DTT TC as soon as I have the cash on hand.







__________________
 
EZ box alone is just fine. Add injectors and you will be above 250hp at the real wheels, and into the magic transmission mod zone. At that point, add a good valve body such as DTT.

PS: make sure to also add the modified elbow to increase the turbo boost.

Charlie
 
When I added my EZ, I noticed that the TCC slips when locked in OD at about mid-throttle. Apply more throttle and it slips less. I raised the line pressure on my valve body to mitigate this, which of course has its own side effects. If the TCC slips even a little over a lot of miles, conceivably crud can build up and it can cause transmission problems. What Dr. Kayak did sounds like an easy solution to that problem. I didn't think of that when I noticed the slippage. DC has the Cummins engine de-tuned to the limit of the auto trans. That's why you can't get the HO engine with a 47RE auto. The 2003 has a 48RE, and I think you can get the HO engine with that trans in 49 states (not CA)



Personally, I'd like to add stage 2 injectors, but not until I get a torque converter and valve body.



Has anyone had experience with the ATS triple-lock converter? I like the idea of multiple discs in the TCC.
 
Originally posted by emjay



Has anyone had experience with the ATS triple-lock converter? I like the idea of multiple discs in the TCC.



Is this a loaded question? :rolleyes:



or are we looking to :-{}





I expected more from your line of work :(
 
emjay, you've come to the right place!

I went to Denver last April and got the full ATS Stage IV trans re-build put in my truck. I am only running about 250 H. P. , but even with that little amount the stock TC was slipping. I had 107,000 miles on it when I got my ATS.



That TripleLok T. C. WILL NOT SLIP! Period. Once it locks up it won't slip, slide, wiggle, warp, burn, blister, peel or degrade. A major problem with the stock T. C. , is the clutch linings are not nearly as good as ATS's and when the stock one starts to degrade, under heat and pressure, the little bits of clutch material circulate through the trans and kill it.



Also, the ATS T. C. cover is cnc'd out of a huge piece of billet steel. Stock one is stamped steel and most aftermarket ones are stamped... which will warp under heat & pressure. The ATS clutch linings are manufactured by Raybestos, and are a composite of Kevlar, carbon and cellulose. These linings are absolutely state-of-the-art in T. C. clutch material. They will NOT burn, I know this as I tried with a lighter to burn the stuff and couldn't do it.



Here is a thread I wrote when I got back from getting my ATS.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...?threadid=40441&highlight=experience+with+ATS
 
:{ I'm jealous. Now I'll have to get one. ;)



The triple lock just plain makes more sense. Everyone else is boosting pressure to eliminate the slip, but large increases in line pressure opens up a whole 'nuther can o'worms, IMHO.
 
I agree, but human nature being what it is, once anyone has paid $3,000 for a transmission it automatically becomes the best there is anywhere.



I studied all of them, I e-mailed and talked on the phone, and bottom line, ATS's system of the Triple-Lok, and their GREAT stator, and superb service and all their re-engineered, heat-treated, Cyroed and new-machined 47Rh & 47RE parts simplified my choice. By the way, here is the thread I posted when I came back from watching them do my trans.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...15&highlight=experience with ATS&pagenumber=1



Also... ATS is purple simply because it is the King of transmissions!
 
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Ditto's on the ATS,

I am tripleloked!!

You'll notice a complete night and day difference when you install a valve body and the Triplelok converter from ATS!

The Billet converter weighs in at over 70 pounds!

www.atsdiesel.com



--Justin
 
looks like I opened something.....

wow, this has prompted more response than I thought, and many ideas. That is the value of this site, great experience and knowledge.



But I have a proclamation - when it comes to auto transmission's, I am quite "knowledge challenged", in other words "I don't know ship about them" :rolleyes:



Does anyone have a pointer to a decent article, book, or site where I can read up and learn about these auto trannys so that I can at least understand what all of the stators, plates, valves, etc mean ?



TIA
 
Well I thought that at least one DTT guy should pop in and say that DTT makes good parts too, they just have a different philosophy on the transmission and how it should work. They don't raise the line pressure to keep the transmission from slipping, they just make the fluid coupling better so you don't need to go into lock up to get the power to the ground. This has all been hashed out about 200 times on the TDR. Do a search on ATS, DTT or transmission and you will find more info than you could read in a year.





I agree, but human nature being what it is, once anyone has paid $3,000 for a transmission it automatically becomes the best there is anywhere



My DTT transmission did not cost $3K, I have about $1600 in mine and it works just fine.
 
Search,search,search

Try searching here,the internet,and various trans vendor websites.



There is TONS of good material,explaning basic trans operation to how the aftermarket stuff works
 
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