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F.A.S.S. system. opinions please!

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aFe Pro-Guard 7 OEM Air Filter Replacement

What the heck were they thinking?

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After reading the threads about the third generation trucks having lift pumps suddenly going out, I am thinking strongly about this F. A. S. S. fuel system upgrade. What do "you that have them", (except dealers) think about this system? I was told by the vendor that it did not void the waranty and that some DC. dealerships are installing them. It ain't cheap but I don't want to get stranded in the boonies with a dead truck this vacation and spend even more $ and the headach that goes with it. My truck is an 03, HO, 6 spd, LWB quadcab HD Tow 2500, 3. 73, Jake brake, Banks six shooter, 4"exhaust, Afe Pro guard, with gauges on everything except fuel because I was told it did not help due to sudden failures on the new lift pump failure problems. And will I need a fuel guage with the new F. A. S. S. system? Hit me! ;)
 
Best Mod. I have made to date. Truck runs and pulls better. If I bought a new truck today I would put a FASS on it the next day.
 
The ONLY bad thing I can say about the FASS is the cheesy mounting bracket that comes with it. Beef that up, and you're good to go.



Dave
 
I like it and I'm going to put one on my truck soon.



I don't buy that dealers are installing them and that it won't void your warranty.
 
I like mine! Steady 17 psi running down the road, only pulls down to 15psi at WOT, stock lift pump went into vacuum at WOT. Had to fabricate some additional brackets to fit my truck but after 2k miles it purrs like a kitten.
 
The mounting brackets that come w/ the FASS are for a Longbed, so you won't have to modify it. The only time you here it is when you turn the key over and wait to start, and at idle. FP at idle is 17 psi and WOT is 15 psi.
 
What does the FASS system consist of? What about the Diesel Dynamics kit? What does the FASS system cost?

The FASS consists of an aluminum block, to which is mounted a fuel pump, a fuel/water separator, and a fuel filter (both spin-on). This entire unit mounts on the outside of the frame rail next to the tank.



The Diesel Dynamics fuel kit consists of a Carter fuel pump that mounts on the inside of the frame rail, and hooks up to the stock fuel filter.



The FASS will run about $550 or so - the DD pump is just over $300.



I had the DD pump for a while, and recent switched over to the FASS. The DD pump was fine at first, but lately has been indicating lower and lower fuel pressures (pulled it down to 4psi the other day). The DD pump is also much louder than the FASS.



Currently, I have the FASS plumbed into the stock fuel filter canister, for two reasons: 1. I already had the necessary fittings installed from my DD pump installation, so I wouldn't have to touch anything on the 'clean' side of the fuel system (including my fuel pressure gauge). 2. I was a little concerned that I might have gotten some dirt and/or bits of teflon tape in the lines during the FASS install (wasn't too thrilled about their instuctions to use tape on the fittings on the clean side of the filters). This way, the fuel still has to go through the stock fuel filter as well, so no danger of clogging the pump or injectors.



Another side benefit was the ease of priming the fuel system. The FASS instructions say to loosen the fuel filter, run the pump, then tighten it when fuel starts spewing out all over the place. Since the stock fuel filter canister was still in place, I just opened up the WIF drain, ran the FASS pump, and drained it into a catch can. It took two cycles of the key to purge all the air out, and you could definately see when it switched over from all air, to air/fuel mixed, to pure fuel. I closed the WIF drain, and that was it. I plan on leaving the system like this, and continuing to run a stock fuel filter element, at least for now. My thinking is that the FASS filters will catch most of the gunk, so the stock filter really shouldn't get dirty.



Fuel pressure right now is a steady 10psi, but I believe that to be mainly because of an old and partially clogged factory fuel filter. However, on a few WOT runs after the FASS installation, the FP gauge never moved off of 10PSI. As I said previously, it would drop to below 5psi with the DD pump.



Overall, I'm very happy with the setup. Installation was pretty straight-forward, but I would suggest waiting until you're almost out of fuel before installing it, because it made things much easier when we dropped the tank down about 6".



-Tom
 
Originally posted by badams1

After reading the threads about the third generation trucks having lift pumps suddenly going out, I am thinking strongly about this F. A. S. S. fuel system upgrade.




Wait a sec, I must be out of the loop because I remember reading a thread a while back saying that the lift pump wasn't an issue because the injection pump has two pumps in it. One to draw fuel and the other to step it up to the 23,000 psi. I also remember reading that in some applications the 5. 9 was even being opperated without a lift pump. Am I way off?
 
FASS pressures

I know I've read several times that the FASS pump is suppose to provide 17lbs under normal driving and 15 at wot. Sounds like 10lbs is a problem,... is it adjustable?
 
I've had mine on for about 7,000 miles, never a problem. Maintains about 18 lbs all the time. You should look at smokindiesel.com. Doug has a wiring harness that take the feed direct from the battery. Trigger is thru a relay from a cable that plugs into the feed to the original lift pump. Nice thing is that there is a fuse very close to the battery. Great anti theft device, just pull the auto type fuse and no one is going to get it started . I doubt that many thiefs carry fuses with them.
 
Bunn: Thread "dave 176" registered in Aplil 04 Around page 11 in the 06/06/04 pecking order, titled,"Lift pump crapped out". You read responses and decide if there is another DC/Cummins fuel deleivery problem, especially if you are bombed. I don't want to get stuck in the boonies and if this very good system prevents a headach then I am for it even if it does cost $ for PM up front. Nothing worth having is cheap and I just want to step over the crap and get on with trucking! My 2 cents, Badams1
 
Bunn, many have experienced engine stubling and light miss when they have a box and/or injectors run it hard and draw the fuel pressure down to zero. Even as high as 5 pounds of pressure some have seen engine stumble. From the posts I have seen even the mildest fueling boxes demand more fuel than the stock lift pump is able to keep up with.



Vaughn
 
Originally posted by ThomasLawrence

Currently, I have the FASS plumbed into the stock fuel filter canister, for two reasons: 1. I already had the necessary fittings installed from my DD pump installation, so I wouldn't have to touch anything on the 'clean' side of the fuel system (including my fuel pressure gauge). 2. I was a little concerned that I might have gotten some dirt and/or bits of teflon tape in the lines during the FASS install . . .



Tom I think that is a good idea to leave the OEM filter there, without the lift pump on it. 10 pounds should be plenty adequate, especially if it doesn't drop. If I get a FASS I would be interested in doing this if I can come up with the conversion pieces for the canister, or else get one from a 2nd-gen 24-valve which does not have the lift pump mounted to it.



Vaughn
 
Vaughn,



Yeah, I figure since it wasn't dropping during extended WOT runs (the TST started defueling before the FP indicated any kind of drop), it should be OK. I put a fresh OEM filter in yesterday, and it's only indicating 12psi. Maybe I'll put a gauge on the port on the FASS itself (temporarily) and see what it's reading right from there.



As for the fitting, maybe Keith at Diesel Dynamics would sell that fitting separately. I definately feel better about retaining the OEM filtration (can't get any complaints about aftermarket fuel filters this way), and more importantly, retaining the fuel heater.



-Tom
 
Tom I have been told the stock filter canister is fairly restrictive. On my last truck I bombed it a bit by opening the holes up on the plastic piece that goes around the perimeter for the heater. It wasn't too hard to remove. I would also get rid of the banjo bolts or at least get the better ones from Wildcat Diesel.



Vaughn
 
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