Here I am

F U-joint replacement how-to tips

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Stuck in park

Frt. Pinion Seal

Status
Not open for further replies.
I just replaced front U-joints on my 2004. 5 6-spd 4WD. This was my first U-joint replacement experience, so I was a newbie. Thought I'd share these tips that might save some other newbie some time.



I following the instructions in the Dodge service manual (CD version), but I found it was lacking in some detail.



1) Removing the front drive shaft: Remember long-shank (about 5" shaft) T40 Torx is needed for the removal of bolts at the diff. After I removed all bolts on both ends, I started tapping with wood block, but it wouldn't come free. Duh -- you must compress drive shaft to get it free, it is "engaged" at both ends (rubber boot in middle of the shaft takes up the slack).



2) I used a bearing press "rented" from Autozone. They had deal where you buy the tool full-price, then can return it for 100% full refund (free rent). No matter how long you keep it. I haven't returned it yet, but the salesman swore up and down that was the deal, so I assume it is legit.



3) On the double Cardan joint (H joint), I found that the U-joints must be removed in this order, for there to be clearance to sufficiently press out each cap enough so that it can be finally removed with vise grips:

a) link yoke -- outboard end (near transfer case)

b) transfer case yoke (which will now be separated from driveshaft)

c) propeller shaft yoke

d) remaining link yoke (inboard end)

And of course reverse order on re-assembly.



4) as you are pressing, keep the yokes square / straight, don't let it flop to the side. This gives the maximum amount of travel, and I found that I really needed that bearing cap pushed out as much as possible before I could successfully vice-grip it and remove it



5) Press each bearing cap as far as you can, but when the yoke "bottoms out" -- hits its mate yoke -- stop pressing, and maybe even back it off a bit. I mistakenly pressed it another half turn after bottoming out, trying to get max amount of surface area to vice grip, but it wouldn't budge. After some "frustration", I realized that by squeezing the yokes against each other, I had flexed / wedged the U-joint, making the bearing cap very tight. Back off a touch, and they loosened up and could then be vice-gripped out.



-- Steve
 
I just ran mine over to a big rig driveline shop. They did mine for $132. 00 parts and labor while I waited(45 minutes)
I did that once too. Then a year later I had to buy a whole new one anyway. A little over twice the price but cheap enough I'll never waste my money "fixing" the front shaft again.

Sorry to rain on this thread's parade, but replacing those joints just isn't worth it.

Nice thread title btw. I'm sure the joints share the sentiment... :-laf
 
Sorry to rain on this thread's parade, but replacing those joints just isn't worth it.



I think the education is worth it.



Cumminsense, I was happy to read your procedure for the front driveshaft because I've wondered how the joints are pressed from the double cardan unit given the presence of the center ball.



Ryan
 
i just bought a new driveshaft on the 04, 251. 00 right from dodge. it was worth it to me no headaches just switch it. also new one came with grease fitting
 
I wish I had remembered this thread. I just finished dismantling my front driveshaft, and didn't quite follow the proper procedure.

I used a hammer rather than the arbor press because I thought it would be easier that way. There's an oil seal at the bottom end of the centering ball that I think I damaged slightly.

Assembling the shaft should be a piece of cake. But when dismantling, it's best to follow the order given by CumminSense.

Ryan
 
i just bought a new driveshaft on the 04, 251. 00 right from dodge. it was worth it to me no headaches just switch it. also new one came with grease fitting



I just had my front driveshaft (03, 6 speed) rebuilt at Point Spring and Driveshaft for $107. This included new front joint (greasable), and two new joints in the CV and a new seal in the middle of the CV.



When I took it out 3, of the 4 torx cap screws came right out with a 40-T, but one rounded off. I was able to drill it out to get the head off and then get the rest out with a pipe wrench after the shaft was out. I bought new hex head 8mm cap screws to replace these.
 
Big thanks to Cumminsense for the sequence to changing the double cardan u-joints. $78 in parts and a couple hours in the shop after a big thanksgiving dinner and I'm back on the road. It makes a huge difference to have a 2nd set of hands, that was my son-in-law paying off all the turkey and dressing he ate. :-laf
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top