I just replaced front U-joints on my 2004. 5 6-spd 4WD. This was my first U-joint replacement experience, so I was a newbie. Thought I'd share these tips that might save some other newbie some time.
I following the instructions in the Dodge service manual (CD version), but I found it was lacking in some detail.
1) Removing the front drive shaft: Remember long-shank (about 5" shaft) T40 Torx is needed for the removal of bolts at the diff. After I removed all bolts on both ends, I started tapping with wood block, but it wouldn't come free. Duh -- you must compress drive shaft to get it free, it is "engaged" at both ends (rubber boot in middle of the shaft takes up the slack).
2) I used a bearing press "rented" from Autozone. They had deal where you buy the tool full-price, then can return it for 100% full refund (free rent). No matter how long you keep it. I haven't returned it yet, but the salesman swore up and down that was the deal, so I assume it is legit.
3) On the double Cardan joint (H joint), I found that the U-joints must be removed in this order, for there to be clearance to sufficiently press out each cap enough so that it can be finally removed with vise grips:
a) link yoke -- outboard end (near transfer case)
b) transfer case yoke (which will now be separated from driveshaft)
c) propeller shaft yoke
d) remaining link yoke (inboard end)
And of course reverse order on re-assembly.
4) as you are pressing, keep the yokes square / straight, don't let it flop to the side. This gives the maximum amount of travel, and I found that I really needed that bearing cap pushed out as much as possible before I could successfully vice-grip it and remove it
5) Press each bearing cap as far as you can, but when the yoke "bottoms out" -- hits its mate yoke -- stop pressing, and maybe even back it off a bit. I mistakenly pressed it another half turn after bottoming out, trying to get max amount of surface area to vice grip, but it wouldn't budge. After some "frustration", I realized that by squeezing the yokes against each other, I had flexed / wedged the U-joint, making the bearing cap very tight. Back off a touch, and they loosened up and could then be vice-gripped out.
-- Steve
I following the instructions in the Dodge service manual (CD version), but I found it was lacking in some detail.
1) Removing the front drive shaft: Remember long-shank (about 5" shaft) T40 Torx is needed for the removal of bolts at the diff. After I removed all bolts on both ends, I started tapping with wood block, but it wouldn't come free. Duh -- you must compress drive shaft to get it free, it is "engaged" at both ends (rubber boot in middle of the shaft takes up the slack).
2) I used a bearing press "rented" from Autozone. They had deal where you buy the tool full-price, then can return it for 100% full refund (free rent). No matter how long you keep it. I haven't returned it yet, but the salesman swore up and down that was the deal, so I assume it is legit.
3) On the double Cardan joint (H joint), I found that the U-joints must be removed in this order, for there to be clearance to sufficiently press out each cap enough so that it can be finally removed with vise grips:
a) link yoke -- outboard end (near transfer case)
b) transfer case yoke (which will now be separated from driveshaft)
c) propeller shaft yoke
d) remaining link yoke (inboard end)
And of course reverse order on re-assembly.
4) as you are pressing, keep the yokes square / straight, don't let it flop to the side. This gives the maximum amount of travel, and I found that I really needed that bearing cap pushed out as much as possible before I could successfully vice-grip it and remove it
5) Press each bearing cap as far as you can, but when the yoke "bottoms out" -- hits its mate yoke -- stop pressing, and maybe even back it off a bit. I mistakenly pressed it another half turn after bottoming out, trying to get max amount of surface area to vice grip, but it wouldn't budge. After some "frustration", I realized that by squeezing the yokes against each other, I had flexed / wedged the U-joint, making the bearing cap very tight. Back off a touch, and they loosened up and could then be vice-gripped out.
-- Steve