I just picked up the Factory Tow Hooks from the dealer. They come with mounting brackets and other assorted hardware. I don't feel so bad about spending $139 now that I see them. Has anyone installed them yet? Any problems? I have the Air Dam and the service manual says to "Remove the screws" in order to remove the Air Dam. They are not screws they have a star shaped opening. Anyone know what number/name that tool is? I don't know why they are called "Factory" as I couldn't find any way to order them when I ordered my truck. Also, they are stamped "5,500" but on the Installation Instructions it states "8,800# GVW or higher. " Thanks in advance.
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Factory Tow Hooks
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Well Dave. .
I just installed the same hooks on my truck last week.
In addition to the hooks I also ordered the air dam as my truck didn't come with it from the factory.
To remove the dam you will meed a "Torx" bit driver. The size was T-30... (at least that's what mine needed)
In addition to the screws, there are 2 plastic rivits that hold the very ends of the air dam to the bumper plastic.
According to Dodge, on trucks supplied with the air dam from the factory, these will have to be cut and new ones installed.
Once your hook install is done . . a quick trip to the dealer's service department will get 2 new ones installed at a minimal charge. (there is a special Gun used to install the non-reuseable plastic rivits)
My truck had 2 of the reuseable type that look like a large tack with a fluted pin.
so I was all set.
I'll touch on the installation "Keypoints" for you.
First. . Cutting out the holes in the air dam.
This is best done with the dam off the truck.
Use a NEW SHARP blade in an Ex-acto knife and CAREFULLY follow the 2 raised outlines on the front of the air dam.
Go conservative. . you can always cut off more... but forget about putting it back after it's hit the floor...
#ad
In some areas the black plastic will turn white as the knife goes on by. . when the openings are finished the white can be "Scraped off" with light strokes with the knife edge.
Second, The bolts that hold the bumper have been "Rounded off" By Dodge at the factory.
Forget about turning from that end of the bolt. . go on the other side. . the Nuts are fine!(No Pun Intended. .#ad
To loosen, you will need a 18. 0mm six point Mid-Depth or Deep socket. . a Standard length(like the ones in most all socket sets) WILL NOT REACH!! and a 12 point may break at the torque required to loosen and re-tighten!!
A trip to Sears and $5. 49 got the craftsman mid length I needed.
Third. . ACTUALLY MEASURE THE HEIGHT OF THE BUMPER AS IT SAYS IN THE INSTRUCTIONS.
THE BUMPER IS GOING TO MOVE WHEN YOU LOOSEN THOSE BOLTS UP
I found the best place to take this measurement is to look at the headlights. . notice on the glass there are small Points that protrude from the surface?
On both sides of the truck, measure from the top of the bumper to the headlight point that is toward the centerline of the truck on each headlight.
That Bump will act like a pointer.
Write the measurement down so you can recreate the position at the end.
Finally. . Loosen up both sides of the bumper, but work on one side at a time.
Don't remove anything that doesn't need to be removed by the instructions.
If A nut needs to be removed. . remove it but leave the bolt in the hole. . ect. . ect. .
If you doing the job alone you dont want the bumper to drop free on the side your working on. It's heavy and trying to hold it up while feeling a bolt through a hole is NO FUN!!
There is nothing harder than what I mentioned.
The installed hooks look great... and will come in handy this winter. .
A friend managed to pay for a set last year. . pulling people back onto the road durring a snowstorm.
(He wasn't driving a Dodge... A Toyota. . of all things).
Good Luck and don't bust any knuckles#ad
Larry
I just installed the same hooks on my truck last week.
In addition to the hooks I also ordered the air dam as my truck didn't come with it from the factory.
To remove the dam you will meed a "Torx" bit driver. The size was T-30... (at least that's what mine needed)
In addition to the screws, there are 2 plastic rivits that hold the very ends of the air dam to the bumper plastic.
According to Dodge, on trucks supplied with the air dam from the factory, these will have to be cut and new ones installed.
Once your hook install is done . . a quick trip to the dealer's service department will get 2 new ones installed at a minimal charge. (there is a special Gun used to install the non-reuseable plastic rivits)
My truck had 2 of the reuseable type that look like a large tack with a fluted pin.
so I was all set.
I'll touch on the installation "Keypoints" for you.
First. . Cutting out the holes in the air dam.
This is best done with the dam off the truck.
Use a NEW SHARP blade in an Ex-acto knife and CAREFULLY follow the 2 raised outlines on the front of the air dam.
Go conservative. . you can always cut off more... but forget about putting it back after it's hit the floor...
#adIn some areas the black plastic will turn white as the knife goes on by. . when the openings are finished the white can be "Scraped off" with light strokes with the knife edge.
Second, The bolts that hold the bumper have been "Rounded off" By Dodge at the factory.
Forget about turning from that end of the bolt. . go on the other side. . the Nuts are fine!(No Pun Intended. .
#adTo loosen, you will need a 18. 0mm six point Mid-Depth or Deep socket. . a Standard length(like the ones in most all socket sets) WILL NOT REACH!! and a 12 point may break at the torque required to loosen and re-tighten!!
A trip to Sears and $5. 49 got the craftsman mid length I needed.
Third. . ACTUALLY MEASURE THE HEIGHT OF THE BUMPER AS IT SAYS IN THE INSTRUCTIONS.
THE BUMPER IS GOING TO MOVE WHEN YOU LOOSEN THOSE BOLTS UP
I found the best place to take this measurement is to look at the headlights. . notice on the glass there are small Points that protrude from the surface?
On both sides of the truck, measure from the top of the bumper to the headlight point that is toward the centerline of the truck on each headlight.
That Bump will act like a pointer.
Write the measurement down so you can recreate the position at the end.
Finally. . Loosen up both sides of the bumper, but work on one side at a time.
Don't remove anything that doesn't need to be removed by the instructions.
If A nut needs to be removed. . remove it but leave the bolt in the hole. . ect. . ect. .
If you doing the job alone you dont want the bumper to drop free on the side your working on. It's heavy and trying to hold it up while feeling a bolt through a hole is NO FUN!!
There is nothing harder than what I mentioned.
The installed hooks look great... and will come in handy this winter. .
A friend managed to pay for a set last year. . pulling people back onto the road durring a snowstorm.
(He wasn't driving a Dodge... A Toyota. . of all things).
Good Luck and don't bust any knuckles
#adLarry
Thanks for all the helpfull info. I now have a couple of questions that your response raised.
1) I wondered about the bumper moving but the instructions I received say NOTHING about measuring the bumper height. They say to do one side at a time though.
2) My instructions call for drilling a 1/2" hole in the frame crossmember on both sides. Did you have to do that?
3) I'm beginging to wonder if I have the most recent(correct)part #. The part number I have is 82202863. The instruction sheet has a date on it of 7-1-96. My truck is a '99. If you still have your instruction sheet could you tell me what part # you have and if there is a date on the instruction sheet?
------------------
99 QC SB 4x4 Auto
Factory Ordered
Most Options
1) I wondered about the bumper moving but the instructions I received say NOTHING about measuring the bumper height. They say to do one side at a time though.
2) My instructions call for drilling a 1/2" hole in the frame crossmember on both sides. Did you have to do that?
3) I'm beginging to wonder if I have the most recent(correct)part #. The part number I have is 82202863. The instruction sheet has a date on it of 7-1-96. My truck is a '99. If you still have your instruction sheet could you tell me what part # you have and if there is a date on the instruction sheet?
------------------
99 QC SB 4x4 Auto
Factory Ordered
Most Options
I also instlled them. I also put on an aftermarket bumper and I would have to drill the skid plate also. The holes are not drilled yet, but I will drill them when I can figure out how to drill 1/4" stainless plate. I would reccomend drilling them (prime the edges when done). The full capacity might? not be realized. The 5000# limit is per hook, 8800# refers to the GVW class of the truck. As you saw with these hooks using both you could go bungee jumping with the truck! (chevy commercial) don't try this at home!
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P. Campbell 1998. 5 ISB 2500 auto green/driftwood, driftwood rickson's 19. 5's, stainless Pro-Zap front bumper, Mag-tech diff/trans covers, Northwest customs mudflaps all around, Genos/westack boost/EGT,trans/diff temp,horton,espar, etc--
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P. Campbell 1998. 5 ISB 2500 auto green/driftwood, driftwood rickson's 19. 5's, stainless Pro-Zap front bumper, Mag-tech diff/trans covers, Northwest customs mudflaps all around, Genos/westack boost/EGT,trans/diff temp,horton,espar, etc--
Sorry... No I don't have the instructions any more.
My kit came with 4 sets of instructions. . all in differant languages.
I do Remember that step one in my instructions was to measure the bumper location. . Trust me. . use the method I described and you can't go wrong.
As for drilling... . I had to do NONE!!!
NONE AT ALL. . All the holes on my 1998. 5 lined up perfectly!!!
It's a mystery.
The only other thing I did differant from the instructions was to leave the tabs on the "Blind Nuts". . (Boy I've got to loose the fourth grade sense of humor. .#ad
I left the tabs on "Just In Case".
The tabs don't interfere with anything underneath so let them be.
If you ever have to remove the hooks or bumper, having the tabs still there will come in handy.
Later
Larry
My kit came with 4 sets of instructions. . all in differant languages.
I do Remember that step one in my instructions was to measure the bumper location. . Trust me. . use the method I described and you can't go wrong.
As for drilling... . I had to do NONE!!!
NONE AT ALL. . All the holes on my 1998. 5 lined up perfectly!!!
It's a mystery.
The only other thing I did differant from the instructions was to leave the tabs on the "Blind Nuts". . (Boy I've got to loose the fourth grade sense of humor. .
#adI left the tabs on "Just In Case".
The tabs don't interfere with anything underneath so let them be.
If you ever have to remove the hooks or bumper, having the tabs still there will come in handy.
Later
Larry
Peter,
Try laying your hands on some cobalt twist drills for the stainless plate you want to drill. I recently went through the joy of drilling some 1/4" holes and got nowhere until I used some of them. Hope they work as well for you as they did for me.
------------------
Frank Dziurda
Carson City, Nevada
'99. 5 2500 4X4 6-Speed Quad Cab LWB 3. 54 LSD
Try laying your hands on some cobalt twist drills for the stainless plate you want to drill. I recently went through the joy of drilling some 1/4" holes and got nowhere until I used some of them. Hope they work as well for you as they did for me.
------------------
Frank Dziurda
Carson City, Nevada
'99. 5 2500 4X4 6-Speed Quad Cab LWB 3. 54 LSD
Drilling stainless steel... ..... we drill it where I work all the time. Special drill bits are nice but not mandatory. It is best to start with a brand new bit or one that is very sharp, sharpened correctly. Use LOTS of oil and go SLOW. If the ssteel or bit starts to get hot then your in trouble. Drilling on a vertical surface can be interesting, cant keep the oil where you want it. Keep the bit and steel from getting to hot and you will do fine.
------------------
'98. 5 Forest Green 2500HD, QC, LB, Cummins ISB, Auto Trans, SLT, Aux. Rear
Suspension, Trailer Tow package, 4. 10 w/ LSD, HD Transfer Case, Keyless
entry, Camel Leather, ICI Stainless steel Nerf Bars, Bed rail caps, fender
trims and rocker panels, Twin Firestik Firefly antennas & Cobra 29LTD
Classic CB.
Junction City, Oregon
------------------
'98. 5 Forest Green 2500HD, QC, LB, Cummins ISB, Auto Trans, SLT, Aux. Rear
Suspension, Trailer Tow package, 4. 10 w/ LSD, HD Transfer Case, Keyless
entry, Camel Leather, ICI Stainless steel Nerf Bars, Bed rail caps, fender
trims and rocker panels, Twin Firestik Firefly antennas & Cobra 29LTD
Classic CB.
Junction City, Oregon
When i first purchased my 94 Ram in December 93, I installed the Tow Hooks available through Dodge dealer. They were very easy to install, and they look very nice protruding from the air dam. They are very fuctual as well!
Wayne
amsoilman
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94'SLT 4X4 AT/White in color. Factory Tow Hooks & Running Boards. Amsoil By-Pass filter system,BD exhaust Brake, BD Torque Lock, BD Torque Converter, Dr. Performance Stage II Pump. Isspro Pyro Boost and Trans temp Gauges mounted in 3 Gauge post mount.
Wayne
amsoilman
------------------
94'SLT 4X4 AT/White in color. Factory Tow Hooks & Running Boards. Amsoil By-Pass filter system,BD exhaust Brake, BD Torque Lock, BD Torque Converter, Dr. Performance Stage II Pump. Isspro Pyro Boost and Trans temp Gauges mounted in 3 Gauge post mount.
Dave, I installed the tow hooks on my 96 3500 when new. My truck did not come with a spoiler, I installed it at the same time and opted to NOT re-install the end rivets. this allows for removal for cleaning/maint. the ends just lay flat and are not really visible. Nice to know fact about tow hooks, I tow an 18' flatbed and a 69 Vette. Numerous times I have towed other vehicles which were disabled. I wanted to install a front reciever winch mount so I could use my winch at the rear of the truck or on the front of the trailer. NO ONE makes a front reciever hitch that will accomodate the tow hooks. not wanting to abandon my tow hooks, I ended up fabricating my own using the four bolts that hold the hooks as the anchor point. Works great, looks great, and factory tow hooks still where they belong. Happy Rammin,
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A bit pricey- PRO-ZAP makes a front "hidden winch" bumper with the front reciever as an option. even with the skid plate the front hooks can still go on-but they are not needed as the bumper has tie offs but with no open end. Try www.prozap.com sorry I dont do the html stuff don't want to even try.
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P. Campbell 1998. 5 ISB 2500 auto green/driftwood
------------------
P. Campbell 1998. 5 ISB 2500 auto green/driftwood
Thanks Peter, I checked out many hitches/bumpers before I decided to make my own. I didn't want to change bumpers, just have a simple reciever hitch and my hooks too. I actually purchased a Draw Tight, and when it wouldn't fit called the factory and asked the R&D people why they do not accomodate tow hooks? No answer, just that they don't! Got my money back. Personally I did not want to hang a ton of iron on the front of my dualley, and I have not seen an after market bumper that complements the looks of the Ram. I will snap a picture and post it so all can see what a clean installation my reciever is. Happy Rammin, Dave Hauser
I finished the install last week. It was in fact very easy. The instructions were not very good (as usual). A couple of things to look out for.
1) I did not remove 3 bolts (each side) as the instructions said. You only need to use 2 of the existing bolts (each side) holding the bumper. Therefore the bumper did not move at all (I did measure just in case). I did one side at a time.
2) The instructions tell you to insert the handle nut through the opening in the frame. On my truck ('99) there is a support bolted to this opening for the bumper. I had to remove the bolt, remove the clasp nut and then insert the handle nut. I inserted the handle nut all the way into the frame and then reinstalled the clasp nut and bolted the extension back on. It worked very well.
3) I DID have to drill a hole through the frame crossmember. You will see if you look at the underside of the mounting bracket that there is another hole in the bracket that does not line up with a hole in the frame. This is where you have to drill. It was very easy and only took a few minutes each side. I used a new 1/2" Dewalt drill bit (part #DW1132).
4) I used a Roto Zip tool (used for cutting holes in drywall) to rough cut the opening in the Air Dam. I then used a Dremmel tool to finish-sand to the outline.
5) I have a factory Air Dam and so had to reinstall the plastic pop rivits. I went to the Dodge dealer and he refered me to a local body shop. They put them in in about 1 minute and they look exactly as they came from the factory. They didn't charge me a dime. Just asked me to come see them if I ever needed body work.
I can honestly say that the tow hooks look totaly factory. They look great. Any questions e-mail me or better yet post them here for everyone's benifit. p. s If you want to borrow any of the above mentioned tools and you are in the Wash. D. C/Balt. area e-mail me and I will tell you where you can pick them up.
Dave
------------------
99 QC SB 4x4 Auto
Factory Ordered
Most Options
1) I did not remove 3 bolts (each side) as the instructions said. You only need to use 2 of the existing bolts (each side) holding the bumper. Therefore the bumper did not move at all (I did measure just in case). I did one side at a time.
2) The instructions tell you to insert the handle nut through the opening in the frame. On my truck ('99) there is a support bolted to this opening for the bumper. I had to remove the bolt, remove the clasp nut and then insert the handle nut. I inserted the handle nut all the way into the frame and then reinstalled the clasp nut and bolted the extension back on. It worked very well.
3) I DID have to drill a hole through the frame crossmember. You will see if you look at the underside of the mounting bracket that there is another hole in the bracket that does not line up with a hole in the frame. This is where you have to drill. It was very easy and only took a few minutes each side. I used a new 1/2" Dewalt drill bit (part #DW1132).
4) I used a Roto Zip tool (used for cutting holes in drywall) to rough cut the opening in the Air Dam. I then used a Dremmel tool to finish-sand to the outline.
5) I have a factory Air Dam and so had to reinstall the plastic pop rivits. I went to the Dodge dealer and he refered me to a local body shop. They put them in in about 1 minute and they look exactly as they came from the factory. They didn't charge me a dime. Just asked me to come see them if I ever needed body work.
I can honestly say that the tow hooks look totaly factory. They look great. Any questions e-mail me or better yet post them here for everyone's benifit. p. s If you want to borrow any of the above mentioned tools and you are in the Wash. D. C/Balt. area e-mail me and I will tell you where you can pick them up.
Dave
------------------
99 QC SB 4x4 Auto
Factory Ordered
Most Options
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
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Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
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