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Fan Clutch time?

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RPM questions

Several entries in the newest TDR magazine and a number of recent posts on the fan clutch and it's affect on AC and defroster. Many recommend replacement with a Mopar clutch.

I haven't noted any problems with mine although I did have to replace my AC compressor with a new packaged kit last summer. I have over 15K miles on it, mostly towing an 11K fifth wheel.

I wonder how to tell if it really is malfunctioning or weak. The factory service manual shows test methods but they require equipment I don't have. I don't mind replacing failing parts but don't want to just throw parts (and money) at it needlessly.
 
Several entries in the newest TDR magazine and a number of recent posts on the fan clutch and it's affect on AC and defroster. Many recommend replacement with a Mopar clutch.

I haven't noted any problems with mine although I did have to replace my AC compressor with a new packaged kit last summer. I have over 15K miles on it, mostly towing an 11K fifth wheel.

I wonder how to tell if it really is malfunctioning or weak. The factory service manual shows test methods but they require equipment I don't have. I don't mind replacing failing parts but don't want to just throw parts (and money) at it needlessly.

Danavilla,

I have a 2006 Laramie Mega Cab that I replaced with a Napa fan clutch and that's been 40k miles ago and still have no problems. The price difference kind of made me second guess but, I weighed my options and went with the 170.00 clutch verses the 480.00 clutch from dealer. The 300.00 difference was a no brainer. Just a little FYI if you do decide to replace it.
 
They will set a soft code, code without a CEL, when they are out of range. I would scan for codes and see if one has been set.
 
When they quit working correctly you will see heating issues towing and\or codes, or, if the lcuthc locks oyu will not be able to spin the clutch by hand with engine OFF. Until you have concrete issues no need to replace.
 
I replaced mine partially because of its age and the fact that it was used for a very brief time (03 & 04) and I'm a little scared the OEM part will not be available one day. I also noticed that while it doesn't throw codes, my temps are higher when going over the mountains and even though my AC has a fresh charge, it can't run as cold during slow speeds/stops in the Eastern Washington desert heat. The fan no longer had "morning sickness" either.
So this coming camping season will be a test as to whether the new clutch does a better job.
 
When they quit working correctly you will see heating issues towing and\or codes, or, if the lcuthc locks oyu will not be able to spin the clutch by hand with engine OFF. Until you have concrete issues no need to replace.

My 06 2500 4X4 has the “soft” code of P0483. It is my understanding there should be some sort of a wired connection to fan clutch (???). I don’t see anything on the fan clutch. I can turn it by hand, however it won’t free spin and am not sure it should. I seem to be missing something here....
Thanks All,
Scott.
 
Several ways a fan clutch can fail. As above codes can set. Dropped dead failures, leaks, locked up bearings, open wires, shorts are clearly an INOP fan clutch and easy to diagnose.

The concern is a old lazy weak clutch (A survivor that didn't die from the above clear cut failures.) that can't respond fast enough to keep the AC system from extreme high side pressure spikes. As explained elsewhere most of the 2003-2007 5.9's do not have any "code" to shut off the compressor IF the high side is overheating and experiencing extreme pressure over 450 Psig due to a fan clutch that isn't kicking on fast enough. These trucks blew the AC relief randomly when brand new. So it's hard to see through the symptoms.

The engine and cooling system are a huge heat sink vs. the heat capacity of the small AC condenser. So the engine temp is the last to start to rise as a fan clutch wears out, but, the AC system has already suffered badly. Anything over 45 MPH and the fan isn't needed at all for AC. At idle is where the AC will fail on a weak fan clutch.

In my case the idle fan RPM was below 600 RPM measured at the fan on a cold day when the AC or ECT did not require any fan. I recall it was around 400 RPM. IMO this RPM is too low for the fan clutch to get the working fluid moving as well as internal wear and fluid wear out. Kicking the AC on resulted in a very slow RPM change while the AC high side ran away over 400 Psig. A new fan clutch was holding around 600+ Fan RPM when not being called to run. An optical tach or trained eye can see this low RPM. Never set a code, but, vented the AC 4+ times it's last year.

Geno's Garage "tool free" advice is similar to: If you start the truck and the fan isn't roaring from morning sickness: turn the AC on with blower on high. The fan should be running in a block or so at 25 MPH. If you start the truck, AC off, and the fan is roaring from the normal morning sickness: simply wait till the fan kicks out in a few min. Then same kick AC on, blower on high, and again it should be roaring within a block. Assumed somewhat of a summer day.

The obsolete spring thermal clutches are the same technology in the "clutch" part of the fan: only the control has been replaced from a thermal spring to a electric valve controlled by the ECM. The ECM can compensate some for RPM lost due to age. However there are limits when the ECM is asking for 100% and time to get there is excessive, but, not tripping a code. Is the fan clutch under your hood over 5 years old? Yes? Then you are not throwing parts at it. I have not seen an age/miles recommendation rather an age only recommendation for fan clutches in general and NOT specific to our fan clutches. Again the underlying technology that fails due to age is the same as the old clutches that have a recommended 5 year life. 5 year life is because they loose 200 RPM per year so 5 years is 1000 RPM lost.

I recall the factory manual has a 15 min test. Bluntly at idle with the AC blower on high the system will dump the R134a out relief valve before the 15 min "It's dead Jim" test will show a INOP fan clutch.
 
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Tuesdak- Thanks for the detailed response. Your explanation fits with my concern that the clutch may be "getting tired" and not really meeting the needs of the AC. I plan a fairly extended trip beginning in May and certainly want to forestall problems while on the road. With over 150K miles I figure it is probably time to replace it before the trip.
 
Thanks for a great post Tuesdak.
So I should not use my AC during the morning sickness period?
Is there a morning sickenss period if it's say 90+ degrees outside?

Thx again, Scott
 
My Fan (200k Miles) ate it's wiring yesterday, no idea how that is possible but anyway I'm in for a new clutch - Mopar what else.
 
So what is the morning sickness period you all speak of...
I Ohm tested (I believe I did I correctly) the fan clutch today and have less than 10 ohms between input and return signal - like none. And then between the 3 pin and the 5 pin and I got like 8.4 ohms. FSM says in both cases anything under 10 ohms means new fan clutch.
This sound right to you guys?
Thanks!
Scott.
 
So what is the morning sickness period you all speak of...
I Ohm tested (I believe I did I correctly) the fan clutch today and have less than 10 ohms between input and return signal - like none. And then between the 3 pin and the 5 pin and I got like 8.4 ohms. FSM says in both cases anything under 10 ohms means new fan clutch.
This sound right to you guys?
Thanks!
Scott.

I still have my old clutch with 122k that didn't throw any codes and it measures 17 Meg ohms 3~5 so it sounds like yours is shorted in that regard.
What pins are the signal pins?

Morning sickness is the fan roaring in the morning when the eng is cold. The fluid is thick and the fan drags until the fluid flows some. It's normal on good fans. My new Mopar does it a LOT. More than I ever remember the old one doing. It has a higher revision stamped on it too.
Scott
 
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Morning sickness is normal and when the fan is simply locked up (roaring) on a cold engine startup. It's caused by the fan being locked in when the engine is turned off for the day and thus locked in on startup the next day. Or if the holes are in a certain position when the engine stops the working fluid will move in the clutch locking the fan in while it's not spinning. So again the fan will be roaring at startup. Sometimes neither of the two conditions happen and you don't have morning sickness.

@Prairie Dog Just for fan testing purposes if the fan is locked in with morning sickness ... turning on the AC to see if it's roaring in a block or so, well, it's already roaring. For testing purposes only you would wait for the fan roar to stop.

Morning sickness airflow helps the AC work. So if the fan is roaring the AC can be on high. It's the rarer time it's not roaring and you have the AC on high that these trucks tend run the high side pressure way up esp. if you don't immediately take off and get some speed for condenser ram airflow. You are not going to be paying attention to the rare time it isn't roaring on a summer day.
 
I still have my old clutch with 122k that didn't throw any codes and it measures 17 Meg ohms 3~5 so it sounds like yours is shorted in that regard.
What pins are the signal pins?

Morning sickness is the fan roaring in the morning when the eng is cold. The fluid is thick and the fan drags until the fluid flows some. It's normal on good fans. My new Mopar does it a LOT. More than I ever remember the old one doing. It has a higher revision stamped on it too.
Scott

Understood on the morning sickness now - Thanks! Mine does not do this.
As far as signal input/output I was on on the #2 & #3 pin in the fan clutch connector. I got the pin layout from another post and it seems to line up against Alldatadiy subscription. Was this correct? I am getting the P0483 code and the truck runs fine and no other codes present.

It’s cold so I didn’t think to test under AC condition. Would one get an indication in defrost mode?

I did notice a little hunting on my temp gauge, but certainly within operational expectations and pretty narrow in nature. Best description - one needle width above and the below the 200* mark on temp gauge. I just thought for grins I’d check the Smarty Touch for any stored codes and got the P0483.

Thanks guys,
Scott.
 
I'm not sure about the modes. Part of the defrost mode depends on temperature.
No AM sickness = bad fan.
Also, I get 4 Meg on pins 2~3 but my clutch is a different P/N so who knows!

At any rate, it looks like your fan is kaput.

Scott
 
A P0483 without any other codes could be as simple as a bad ground or a flaky connection somewhere. It could be simply the fan is not getting up to demanded speed fast enough due to age.

Open in the power supply circuit between the cooling fan module and the PCM – possible
Short to ground in the power supply circuit to the cooling fan module - possible
Cooling system malfunction – faulty thermostat/water pump – most likely
Cooling fan module faulty - possible Faulty PCM - highly unlikely

Clear the code and monitor to see if it comes back and watch ECT when working the engine hard. If it doesn't overheat it is likely a transient code. Depending on the source a new may not solve it.
 
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