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Fan Clutch time?

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Where Does This Puppy Go?

RPM questions

It can be weak and still not show any issues when working the engine. The fan is combo hydraulic and electronic so even if the hydraulic system is weak the electircla can push the speed up. When it won't anymore then it starts heating.
 
As an aside and of no particular importance, fan clutch "morning sickness" should not be confused with torque converter "morning sickness" in which the TC fluids drain into the pan overnight.:rolleyes:
 
And causing AC issues.
I like to be more pro-active.
Hey Guys,
I’m going to put in the new fan clutch this weekend and was thinking about something else. What is your opinion on water pump replacement at this time? 113K on the clock. No indication of weeping, noise or heat up - that I have observed and don’t want to unnecessarily throw parts at it as a matter of convenience.
Thanks,
Scott.
 
You've never changed the WP? Wow, you're doing good!
Mine went at about 90K and it was very sudden. Given the history of them, I would watch it closely and carry a replacement. Take along the few tools needed to change it, which is an easy job.
Would be a good time to change the thermostat too since it will be right there, loose in your hand.
 
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Unless you go buy one from Cummins run that one until it dies. All things being equal, 150-180k you will have to replace it so you should have a little life. When you buy one get the one form Cummins and hope if it is made in China they did it correctly.
 
After digging in to put the fan clutch in, it became apparent the water pump was leaking a little bit. I had not been diligent in keeping the weep hole clean and as such I had to get up close to see. New water pump, T-stat, Fan Clutch and serpentine belt. Will complete reassembly of peripheral items tonight and pull a vacuum on the system and presuming good, put in the coolant. Thanks for the input.
Scott.
 
OK, I'm in the process of replacing the Fan Clutch but now I have a question. My service manual says the 36mm nut is RIGHT Hand, meaning it rotates counter-clockwise for removal. It's stuck pretty hard and before adding more force, I'm trying to verify rotation.
IS IT RH AS THE MANUAL INDICATES? Some of the TDR threads I've read confuse the issue. Do some of our Cummins use LH thread instead? Which ones? One suggestion for loosening the nut was to strike it on the right corner with a chisel. That doesn't seem correct if it is a RH thread. See what I mean?
 
Yes, it is right hand thread. Facing the the engine at the front of the truck counter clockwise to loosen it. A chisel too loosen will work if you do not have the fan wrench.

Yes, the older generations were left hand thread dude to the way the fan spun, #rd gen and up are all right hand threads.
 
Yeah it's right handed, on my 07 I borrowed the fan tool from auto zone to loosen it, also if you use aftermarket fan clutch take the wiring harness metal bracket off your old one and fit it on new one so your wires will clear fan
 
My home made wrench wouldn't loosen it and the chisel on the corner edge of the nut didn't break it loose either. My next thought is using an air chisel or trying to apply a bit of heat. The things I once took in stride frustrate me more and more as I age.
 
My home made wrench wouldn't loosen it and the chisel on the corner edge of the nut didn't break it loose either. My next thought is using an air chisel or trying to apply a bit of heat. The things I once took in stride frustrate me more and more as I age.
Go to parts house and borrow one, it comes with wrench to loosen and one to hold so fan won't turn
 
My homemade tools are pretty good. Here's a picture of them.
fan clutch tools.jpg
I can hold the pulley with one and try to loosen with the other. I even used a cheater pipe and it wouldn't budge. Maybe a longer cheater? I adapted a air hammer attachment to impact the wrench and still nothing. I'll go to a parts house tomorrow (NAPA or?) to try to borrow the tools.
 
SUCCESS!

Within an hour of coming home with the borrowed tools from O'Reilly, the fan clutch was off. I used their 36mm wrench with a large box wrench of my own to serve as a cheater bar. I was a bit nervous that the essentially 1/4" bolts holding the pulley might sheer off with the torque of the long wrench but they held. The holder I had made worked well to hold the pulley while I loosened the 36mm nut. The new water pump is in and I'm ready to install the new clutch. I saw a YouTube video that suggested removing the shroud to improve access. It was a squeeze but taking that off did give me more working room.

Thanks to all for all the advise and encouragement. TDR has come through once more.
 
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