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FASS Pump pickup tube install?

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2006 3500

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I installed a fass pump today and when i was installing pickup tube. the tube the kit came with was about a fingertips thickness from bottom of tank without even cutting it! and there was only one flat area in middle of tank to place it. the instuctions say two quarters stacked, the supplyed tube was just too short! I was going to add a peice of rubber hose with a clamp to the end. but i needed to get truck back together for work and didn't have big enough hose on hand. what have you guys run into in you installs? i'm just worried now about running out of fuel sitting on a hill or something like that. do you think it will be an issue? i might run it low to see where it runs out now and keep a 5 gal can of diesel in the bed so i have a refference point.



i was disapointed they didn't give me a tube with more room for adjustment. I could have got another tube from the hardware store but it's not the point. keep in mind it's a $550 kit!
 
i'm calling them tomorrow to send me a new tube. the whole point of this thing is to get rid of air. . now it's going to give me more! i wish i was more patient
 
Mine was the same way when I installed it. I didnt have the patients when I did my install but I always try to fill up around 1/4 tank but definetly by 1/8 tank.
 
I bought a stock fuel canister minus the pump, modified it to accept a vulcan draw straw II so that way even if i am climbing a hill the fuel doesn't move away from the pickup tube and also I can run the truck PAST the point to where the fuel light turns on without any problems.



I did this cause I did not want to drill anything into the tank
 
I bought a stock fuel canister minus the pump, modified it to accept a vulcan draw straw II so that way even if i am climbing a hill the fuel doesn't move away from the pickup tube and also I can run the truck PAST the point to where the fuel light turns on without any problems.



I did this cause I did not want to drill anything into the tank



i wanted to do that but fass said the pump will suck the basket dry. which pump are you running?
 
but cant you buy something called fuelbasket when you order fass today right? thin somthin like that should come with my 150gph
 
I run a raptor 150gph. As long as there is fuel in the tank I don't see how it could suck the basket dry



that's what fass told me, i guess they had trouble with it. i'm going to re-install a new pickup tube and see since the hole is allready drilled i will use the fass recomended setup, not thrilled with there instructions, or quality control, sending out short tubes that are not right on an application specific product. i use to run the truck down past the light. that isn't going to happen anymore!
 
I tested this out in a sink. I took the pump-less, empty fuel canister and placed it in a sink filled with water and it evened out with the water in the sink. the water comes up through a little valve in the canister. Even if you pick the canister up out of the water, it won't leak. If you have your tank dropped and you remove the fuel pump module you will see what I am talking about. So as long as there is a good amount of fuel in the tank and you have the pickup tube in low enough in the canister you'll be fine. I have run my setup 15 miles PAST the point where the fuel light comes on with no problems at all, uphill, downhill, etc...



Here is what I bought and modified



Dynomite Diesel - 04. 5-07 In-Tank Replacement Module Injection and Lift Pumps Chrysler Dodge



I even think there are kits out there that are pre-drilled to accept draw straws
 
Do yourself a favor and either get a modified cannister or mod it yourself with a larger pickup tube to the bottom of the cannister.



Route the return fuel from the FASS into the cannister and you won't have problems running out of fuel.



If you want a bit more insurance make sure the suction end of the pickup tube has a 3/4 to 1 inch fitting on the end of it to stop cavitation from the small surface area draw.
 
There are 2 total ports, a factory feed and factory return. When I modified the canister I took out the factory feed and put the draw straw in its place. I used the factory return line from the stock fuel filter housing.
 
here is what i have Draw Straw I 1/2 in. draw tube and 1/2 in. pushlock fitting and i have the return from my fass and the engine going to the canister. i am about 100% sure the fuel level in the canister is higher then the fuel level in the tank with both returns going to the canister. if its not higher its at least the same and on a hill i wont run out. since this install i have seen no changes in pressure. when i had it hooked to the factory pickup tube i would see changes and i think it was for a few reasons. the tube was too small, and it would suck too much air for the fass system to remove all of it when the tank was low. if it were my truck i would buy the vulcan draw straw again and trash the fass one.


edit: you could add another fuel tank and use the one fass sent you to dump the fuel from the aux tank to the main tank through that... . just some food for thought.
 
I would not worry about the hole or the cut fuel neck. They can be capped off. I would do the job right for your needs rather then risking anything.
 
i spoke with fass directly this week. turns out the are working on an updated pick-up tube. it is going to still be a new hole drilled in tank and pick up fuel from the basket. return is still going to go into filler neck. They are sending me a new teflon pick-up tube to replace the short one i got in my kit. Fass says they don't want to drill the sending unit because it too easy to crack when drilling. Since they are giving me a new tube, i am going to run it since i allready have the hole. i will see how low i can go, if it is as low as basket it should run to the same level.
 
in theory thats right you will be able to run it down just as far. but then there is real world. the basket helps with the fuel that sloshes around in the tank. example. pickup tube outside of basket: you take off from a red light all the fuel will go to the back of the tank leaving your pick up tube sucking air, same goes for stopping or turning. example 2 pickup tube in basket: you take off from a red light fuel does the same exact thing in the tank but the basket will keep fuel in a smaller space until fuel comes back to level while driving.



Here is another great example. i have helped a few friends build rock crawlers. since with these rigs its pretty important to keep fuel flowing when going up hill we put in racing cells with bottom sumps in them and put them in back wards so the only time they can suck air is when they are going down a hill.



I say run it and see if the system they send you works. keep us posted.
 
As I discussed in Issue 70, p. 92 and Issue 56, p. 102, the pickup tube should indeed be close to the bottom of the tank. I bought a 316 stainless steel length of 3/8 pipe threaded on both ends, and cut it to the exact length. You can get this pipe inexpensively at McMaster-Carr
 
On mine, I got a 90 degree barbed fitting, measured and cut, but I stuck on a

fuel sock from a Mopar sender. You can get them from Mancini. A Mopar resto and performance parts store, here in Mi. So now it sits on the bottom of the tank and won't

suck up trash. I warmed up the tube with hot water, made it easier to insert the fitting.
 
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