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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fire Ring Question

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 15W-40 vs. 5W-40 synthetic

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I'm about to do my 1st retorque after installing fire rings and 12mm studs from Haisley's. My question is if I DIDN'T use the supplied lube with the studs, did I get the torque on the nuts my wrench was reading at the time? I didn't. :( I have coolant leaking out from the head area but I only get to 20 pounds of boost with my new Piers HX-40?



I couldn't have blown a HG at 20 psi? Could I??



I was wondering if the mild steel fire rings, which would require a bit more clamp to compress because the mild steel is so resistant( like spring steel) would necessitate the use of the stud lube for MORE clamping force on the head.
 
the lube is to insure that the nut continues to slide until to give you a more even and accurate torque. without it the metal of the threads can grab and not give you a true torque reading. it is always recomended to use plenty of that lube. dont take my word for it maybe someone else will chime in but i would crack each one loose and pu the lube on and retorque it, or even go as far as taking it back off and redoing the job. if there isnt an even torque on the firerings to get enough crush then you could easily be leaking coolant, maybe not much compression so not really a blown HG but a leaky one. hopefully i am wrong. good luck give ADT or Piers or haisleys or any of the shops with experiences with firerings.
 
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We don't have any professional installers around here. The only thing I screwed up on my rebuild was the stud lube. I have the hottest diesel in Fort Wayne. The closest would be Rick in Angola. Around here, I'm it.



That's so sad. :(
 
i am sure you did a fine job on the install, i am just saying call pdr or adt and ask them what they would do. i gave you my thoughts on what i think should be done but they may say different. what all you got done to your truck.
 
Oh, okay. Will do.



Uh, lessee, Piers HX-40, Piers cam, Schied's Pistons, ATS manifold, Banks 4" exhaust, DD2s, Haisley's studs, Fire Rings and HG, South Bend Con FE, Fast Coolers, Scotty 2...



Uninstalled, PacBrake, Edge EZ, Bank's Ottomind and a burned up HX-35.
 
I used the ARP slick-um when I did mine. 60 psi everyday since then with no problems.



I torqued them to 30, then 60 then 90 then 125 then 125 again. With the arp lube. I just did the retorque @127 lbs. The HG instructions say to take them to 135, but the head stud instructions say to take them to 125.



Which one is right??



I would pull each nut off one at a time and smear arp on them and then torque it to the correct torque. Give Van a call and make sure you can torque them to 125 with the lube.



You might have already put the stud in its plastic state of stretch...





Justin
 
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When using the ARP 12mm studs anything above 125 lbs is doing more harm than good. The fasteners have 100% yeild at 122 lbs (in theory), by going to 125 lbs you are going above 122 lbs just slightly but this can be accounted for by friction between the fastener and stud. Be sure and use lots of ARP lube on the threads, washers, and fasteners.



Doug
 
arp studs are chromalloy the studs he bought from Haisley's (scheids are the same) are a-1 tech the are made from tool steel in which have a higher tension strenght Van told me 130# sorry to say i would bet your doing a another head job
 
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