Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) First Fuel Filter Change and ramblings...

[guldam]

Got in some parts yesterday, and today I started putting them on.



Today was my first fuel filter change, and as always I figured out that to be a decent mechanic you need to have long, super articulated arms that bend in any direction to fish out the parts you need to remove and replace.



I stuck my big oil drain pan under the truck and let loose with the yellow lever, and the filter canister emptied itself onto the drain pan with hardly any muss or fuss.



Fuel filter came off reasonably easy, after removing the water warning wires and loosening up the 14mm nut. Fuel filter canister came out from underneath. I saw no way to pull it out through the top.



Inside the canister was a black film, along with some pea sized clumps of tarry looking stuff. The filter itself was black. I wonder how long it takes a fuel filter to go black?



Lubed up all the parts and put it back together. I didn't have any fresh clean diesel to fill up the canister and so I just put back together dry. Then I pumped away at that rubber bulb underneath hoping I could fill it up that way. Didn't work. So I just ran the starter a couple times, then loosened up the bleed screw and pumped that rubber bulb a few more times and fresh diesel came out and no air bubbles. Figured I was good to go. Turned the key and the truck started right up, happy as can be.



Replaced the intake horn gasket while I was at it. Then checked to see if the AFC housing was slid all the way forward. It wasn't quite. So I backed off on the starwheel to stock position, slid the AFC housing forward, and then tightened everything down, and turned the star wheel to the engine about 60 clicks until it was almost as far as it would go. Started the truck up and ran it up a few hills and it still doesn't seem to have all that much power that I was expecting from the #10 plate.



Turn off overdrive and ease my foot forward, it gets moving and shifts to second, and is still poking along at 2200 rpms, then shifts to 3rd and it feels like it suddenly has some torque. Doesn't feel like what I expected though.



Going to try and get the gauges installed tomorrow, though I kind of doubt I'll have enough time. Perhaps I can do the EGT.



Noticed today that the injector closest to the firewall is dirty and greasy. The others are clean as a whistle. Hope that this is due to just a bad washer.



GulDam

 

[hsmith]

If you will unbolt the master cylinder and move to the side, you will have a lot more room to get to the filter.



You might be in need of some algae treatment also. It has aparantely been a while since it has been changed.

 

[guldam]

Thanks for the tip of moving the master cylinder out of the way!



oiiiiii, don't want to hear about fungus in the fuel. Previous owner spent a wad of money to drop the fuel tank and purge the whole fuel system when he got a bad batch of diesel that had critters swimming in it.



I'll be changing the fuel filter maybe every oil change now.



I have been running a fungicide every other tank of diesel or bio diesel I fill up with. Perhaps, I'll get a bottle of the "evil stuff" my local parts store carries, and shock those little monsters into death, in case I still have them.



Wonder if there are any kits to test diesel for fungus?



GulDam

If you will unbolt the master cylinder and move to the side, you will have a lot more room to get to the filter.



You might be in need of some algae treatment also. It has aparantely been a while since it has been changed.

 

[GAmes]

Of the dozens of fuel filter changes I have done I have never had any "pea sized clumps of tarry looking stuff". I change mine about every 15k and the filter is always black. The black color is normal, the tarry looking stuff is not. It does sound like you have an algae problem.



The next time you pull the canister I suggest you remove the round brass nut that holds the bolt in and replace the bolt with a #8 grade bolt. Mine broke in rural Alabama one hot, humid Saturday afternoon about 6 years ago. It is SAE BTW, 9/16 nut, not 14 mm.



After you replace the filter and install the canister remove the 10mm bleed screw from the banjo on the top of the housing. Push the pump about a million times until fuel comes out the bleed hole. Reinstall the bleed bolt and pump a few more times until you hear a squeal. That is the overflow valve. The truck should start easily.



I've read that hint about the master cylinder before, but I think it only applies to '96 and earlier. They have a different type filter.

 

[hsmith]

You're right Gary, not necessary to move the m/c on the '97 and up. I was thinking on my '96 it really helps.