My truck is just about up for its first oil change since I've owned it. I've never trusted anyone to work on my vehicles before and I'm not about to start now. What oil/filter do you all recommend? Any "gotchas" I should watch out for? At 50k miles anything else I should be changing or looking at while I'm underneath?
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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) First oil change...please help a newbie
- Thread starter BadDNA
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A fleetguard filter, 3 gallons of Rotella T 15w-40. Fill the oil filter about 75% if the way before reinstalling it, otherwise it's just another oil change. Might want to torque the plug. Some people have had problems with theirs. I forget what the figure is, I bought a Fumoto valve.
You might want to see the last time the fuel filter, rear(s), transfer case (if applicable
) and transmission was done.
Dont forget to check the air filter.
Eric
You might want to see the last time the fuel filter, rear(s), transfer case (if applicable
) and transmission was done. Dont forget to check the air filter.
Eric
Since you didn't give us the year of your truck, whether it's a 12 valve or 24 valve, etc. I'm going to assume that it's a 24 valve and respond accordingly.
Oil Filter:
Fleetguard LF3894 Stratopore (get 'em at Geno's or Cummins)
Oil (non-synthetic):
Either Chevron Delo 400 15W-40 or Shell Rotella 15W-40
Oil (synthetic):
Ain't going there - too controversial!
Rusty
Oil Filter:
Fleetguard LF3894 Stratopore (get 'em at Geno's or Cummins)
Oil (non-synthetic):
Either Chevron Delo 400 15W-40 or Shell Rotella 15W-40
Oil (synthetic):
Ain't going there - too controversial!
Rusty
PS
I try to let mine drain over night if at all possible.
Eric
I try to let mine drain over night if at all possible.
Eric
Welcome to the Group BadDNA!
Filters, you best bet is to get one from Cummins. there much cheaper then the dealer, and there the exact same thing.
Look in the links section of this website and look up Geno's garage, they can sell you filters cheaper then just about anywhere. Plus they have the better cummins filters the dealer don't sell.
For oil you can't go wrong with Shell Rotella T 15w40. I buy it by the case, enough for 2 changes. (it holds 11 quarts when you replace the filter). Thinking about Synthetic oil for the motor? to a search on Amsoil and you will find more then you ever wanted to read.
For an oil filter wrench, if its an auto, I would recommend getting one of those strap wrench's you see at Sears, you know the one that looks like it is made of a rubber fan belt.
If its a manual, a standard metal band type oil filter that can pivot will work just fine.
Do you have any records on what maintenance has already been done? Might think about flushing the Brake fluid, Changing the Power Steering fluid over to Valvoleen synthetic, Flushing the Cooling system, or even servicing the auto trans. How about the Rears, Think they have ever been changed? Might be a good time to switch them over to Synthetics.
Filters, you best bet is to get one from Cummins. there much cheaper then the dealer, and there the exact same thing.
Look in the links section of this website and look up Geno's garage, they can sell you filters cheaper then just about anywhere. Plus they have the better cummins filters the dealer don't sell.
For oil you can't go wrong with Shell Rotella T 15w40. I buy it by the case, enough for 2 changes. (it holds 11 quarts when you replace the filter). Thinking about Synthetic oil for the motor? to a search on Amsoil and you will find more then you ever wanted to read.
For an oil filter wrench, if its an auto, I would recommend getting one of those strap wrench's you see at Sears, you know the one that looks like it is made of a rubber fan belt.
If its a manual, a standard metal band type oil filter that can pivot will work just fine.
Do you have any records on what maintenance has already been done? Might think about flushing the Brake fluid, Changing the Power Steering fluid over to Valvoleen synthetic, Flushing the Cooling system, or even servicing the auto trans. How about the Rears, Think they have ever been changed? Might be a good time to switch them over to Synthetics.
Sorry, the truck is a '98. 5 24 valve 2wd ATX. I've run Mobil-1 in my other cars from the first oil change but something tells me that'll get a bit expensive here @ ~3 gal. /fill. Should I be able to find that Fleetguard at any Cummins distributor? What about Autozone/Pep Boys types of places?
FWIW, you guys have got to be some of the speediest most helpful people I've run across on an internet forum.
FWIW, you guys have got to be some of the speediest most helpful people I've run across on an internet forum.
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Since you state that you're a Mobil 1 user, if you're wanting to run a Mobil synthetic in your Cummins, the proper product is their Delvac 1 - the diesel engine equivalent to Mobil 1 synthetic which is for gasoline engines.
Do yourself a big favor - order the Fleetguard filters from Geno's or buy them from your Cummins dealer. If you still have the stock air filter, get the 4-2-1 kit for your year model truck from Geno's - this gets you 4 oil filters, 2 fuel filters and 1 air filter. I've never been able to beat their pricing. Don't mess around with the Pep Boys stuff, and whatever you do, don't put a Fram oil filter on your engine.
And it's 11 quarts for a change on the 24 valve engine, including the quart you'll put into the oil filter before installing it.
Rusty
Do yourself a big favor - order the Fleetguard filters from Geno's or buy them from your Cummins dealer. If you still have the stock air filter, get the 4-2-1 kit for your year model truck from Geno's - this gets you 4 oil filters, 2 fuel filters and 1 air filter. I've never been able to beat their pricing. Don't mess around with the Pep Boys stuff, and whatever you do, don't put a Fram oil filter on your engine.
And it's 11 quarts for a change on the 24 valve engine, including the quart you'll put into the oil filter before installing it.
Rusty
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One more question, for all my other Chrysler vehicles, I've always owned a Factory Service Manual. I'm guessing, based on what I've seen with other vehicles, there's probably a generic manual for the general truck and a suppliment for the CTD. Does anyone have one for a '98. 5 24 valve or know the stock number(s)? I'm guessing I could call the distributor and order myself one if I knew the number(s) to order.
Looks like everyone has covered all the bases but I'll chime in anyway.
Ditto on the oil filter, buy it from the dealer (around $10) or from a place that sells Cummins parts. In my area the dealer price on the filter is one dollar less so I get them 4 at a time. Don't buy generic wally world filters. The few dollars you save aren't worth it. A decent oil filter wrench will make the job easier. I had a cheapie that didn't survive my first oil change. The filter is way too tight from the factory.
If you live near a Costco, you can buy a case (six gallons) of Delo-400 for under $36. It's easy to get a thread war going on what's the best oil to use but no one will give you too much ribbing if you use the Delo. At $6 a gallon it's a steal.
I wouldn't let the oil drain overnight. Right after buying my truck I was fortunate to talk to a technician from Cummins about oil change technique. Two things were stressed and I've followed them ever since. One, prefill the oil filter before installing it. Two, change the oil while the engine is still warm. Both steps are designed to insure that the turbo bearings get oil in the shortest possible time. Until you see the pressure gauge move there's almost zero pressure in the system. On my truck it takes 2 to 3 seconds to see pressure.
If you want to see just how quickly the turbo spins up do this little trick: remove the large air inlet hose from the airbox to the turbo, have someone start the truck while you watch the turbo, and notice just how quickly it starts to spin. Until the oil system starts getting pressure the turbo is spinning on whatever oil was left behind on the bearings. Doing the oil change while the engine is warm means there's still some residual oil left behind. I guess there would still be oil on the turbo if allowed to drain overnight but it's probably going to be less than if you do it while the engine is still warm.
On the drain plug, don't overtighten! The torque on the newer style plug is 35 ft lbs, I've used that spec from day one and never seen a drop of oil. I think the specs on the older ones are higher.
Have fun!
Ditto on the oil filter, buy it from the dealer (around $10) or from a place that sells Cummins parts. In my area the dealer price on the filter is one dollar less so I get them 4 at a time. Don't buy generic wally world filters. The few dollars you save aren't worth it. A decent oil filter wrench will make the job easier. I had a cheapie that didn't survive my first oil change. The filter is way too tight from the factory.
If you live near a Costco, you can buy a case (six gallons) of Delo-400 for under $36. It's easy to get a thread war going on what's the best oil to use but no one will give you too much ribbing if you use the Delo. At $6 a gallon it's a steal.
I wouldn't let the oil drain overnight. Right after buying my truck I was fortunate to talk to a technician from Cummins about oil change technique. Two things were stressed and I've followed them ever since. One, prefill the oil filter before installing it. Two, change the oil while the engine is still warm. Both steps are designed to insure that the turbo bearings get oil in the shortest possible time. Until you see the pressure gauge move there's almost zero pressure in the system. On my truck it takes 2 to 3 seconds to see pressure.
If you want to see just how quickly the turbo spins up do this little trick: remove the large air inlet hose from the airbox to the turbo, have someone start the truck while you watch the turbo, and notice just how quickly it starts to spin. Until the oil system starts getting pressure the turbo is spinning on whatever oil was left behind on the bearings. Doing the oil change while the engine is warm means there's still some residual oil left behind. I guess there would still be oil on the turbo if allowed to drain overnight but it's probably going to be less than if you do it while the engine is still warm.
On the drain plug, don't overtighten! The torque on the newer style plug is 35 ft lbs, I've used that spec from day one and never seen a drop of oil. I think the specs on the older ones are higher.
Have fun!
I use...
Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40 in both my CTDs. Have since both were new. "92 has 230,000+ miles and '99 has 139,000+ miles. I run Wix filters, but many people say this is a no-no. Been thinking of swapping to Fleetguard... this board will wear on you, but lots of good info.
I have a pair of channel-lock filter pliers that work great on the oil filter. Careful with the drain plug. I have heard of several being over-torqued and twisted off or broken. My rule of thumb for this is use a 3/8" short rachet and snug it good... don't put all you got on it. Never had one work loose and never broken one.
Enjoy the ride and welcome aboard!
Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40 in both my CTDs. Have since both were new. "92 has 230,000+ miles and '99 has 139,000+ miles. I run Wix filters, but many people say this is a no-no. Been thinking of swapping to Fleetguard... this board will wear on you, but lots of good info.
I have a pair of channel-lock filter pliers that work great on the oil filter. Careful with the drain plug. I have heard of several being over-torqued and twisted off or broken. My rule of thumb for this is use a 3/8" short rachet and snug it good... don't put all you got on it. Never had one work loose and never broken one.
Enjoy the ride and welcome aboard!
That's fine, but the book calls for 11 quarts in my 2002. To get an accurate reading on the dipstick on mine, it has to sit for quite awhile (like overnight). If I check it within, say, an hour of shutting down, it will read low.
11 quarts as called for in the owner's manual and as measured above is spot-on for my truck. YMMV.
Rusty
11 quarts as called for in the owner's manual and as measured above is spot-on for my truck. YMMV.
Rusty
I let it drain overnight because I have the 7100 pump. There's a quart or two that "hides" in these unless given enough time to drain.
The other point can be argued. Every time you start the truck from an overnight stop will be a dry start.
If it really worried you, you could disconnect the solenoid on the pump so it will crank long enough to get oil pressure, but it will still be rotating on "dry" bearings.
Eric
Make sure you use an oil that is rated for diesel. I believe its api rating is ch4/cg4, check the owners manual. Someone pls correct me if I am wrong. I think the service manuals had the wrong torque specs for the oil plug, it was too high and that was why people were breaking the plugs.
Make sure you have a big enough container for the oil to drain into. It sounds simple but ...
lol
Make sure you have a big enough container for the oil to drain into. It sounds simple but ...
lol
Just wanted to pass on this neat little tip when removing the filter. Was posted here about a year or two ago and I'm sorry I can't remember who to give credit to.
Just barely crack the filter loose and then take a 1 qt zip lock bag and slip it over the filter. Then unscrew it by hand. The spilling oil and filter are it the bag and not all over the engine and axle.
Just barely crack the filter loose and then take a 1 qt zip lock bag and slip it over the filter. Then unscrew it by hand. The spilling oil and filter are it the bag and not all over the engine and axle.
Another newbie, same issues, great ideas.
Howdy. With the 48,000 miles approaching, I will need to change the oil for the first time since buying it (used, with 45,000 miles) in July. I have read through all these posts and appreciate the info. Thanks to all who posted!!!
The Plan: I have a case of Shell Rotella T oil that I plan to use. I will probably order the Geno's 4-2-1 (or something like that). I also plan do an oil analysis to establish a baseline on what is happening in my new (to me) engine. (Blackstone Labs, as I recall. Sent in my request for the sample kit. ) Any thoughts on oil sampling?
The Future: I am hoping to add (to a stock truck so far) gauges (egt, boost, FP), then an AFE air filter and box, then maybe a FASS system, then maybe a DSS. If I find FP a problem, then the FASS goes in quicker.
Thanks in advance for any additional (or updated) thoughts.
Phil
BTW, a special thanks to whomever for the message regarding size of catch container, since my 2 gallon Rubbermaid car-oil-change sloshbox will be marginal at best! :-laf
Howdy. With the 48,000 miles approaching, I will need to change the oil for the first time since buying it (used, with 45,000 miles) in July. I have read through all these posts and appreciate the info. Thanks to all who posted!!!
The Plan: I have a case of Shell Rotella T oil that I plan to use. I will probably order the Geno's 4-2-1 (or something like that). I also plan do an oil analysis to establish a baseline on what is happening in my new (to me) engine. (Blackstone Labs, as I recall. Sent in my request for the sample kit. ) Any thoughts on oil sampling?
The Future: I am hoping to add (to a stock truck so far) gauges (egt, boost, FP), then an AFE air filter and box, then maybe a FASS system, then maybe a DSS. If I find FP a problem, then the FASS goes in quicker.
Thanks in advance for any additional (or updated) thoughts.
Phil
BTW, a special thanks to whomever for the message regarding size of catch container, since my 2 gallon Rubbermaid car-oil-change sloshbox will be marginal at best! :-laf
Any of you guys tried the Red Line 15-40 in your Cummins??? I love it, use it in the race car also, switched over from Delo about a month ago, gets a little better mileage. Not Cheap though!!!
Tom
2001 2500 LB 5-Spd DD TTPM, DD Stage 1's AFE, 4" Pipe, Jake Brake
Tom
2001 2500 LB 5-Spd DD TTPM, DD Stage 1's AFE, 4" Pipe, Jake Brake
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