Here I am

First RV Tow....Felt heavy....

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Video worth watching of wreck recovery

Trailer Not Connected on new truck

First travel trailer I have owned. 2017 Arctic Fox 25W. Dry weight roughly 7K. Crossing the scales still hooked up, truck weighed 7950, then pulling the trailer on, it weighed in at 7050. Just felt like it was all that ol' 12v could do. 5th gear running about 60-62mph on flat land. Stayed in 5th on slight hills. Dropped to 4th if RPM dipped below 1600. 11.36MPG on the 334 mile journey from North Bend, WA to home in Springfield, OR. Above 64mph I could feel a little sway in the trailer. Weight Distribution hitch is a Curt model #17002. It came with the trailer. I am wondering if using a better WD hitch would help.

IMG_0203.jpg


IMG_0203.jpg
 
looks like the WD hitch needs to be tighter. when adjusted properly your front fender height will be the same as it was without the trailer attached. You look a little nose high.

no idea on the power though.
 
Congrats on the new Arctic Fox. They make a quality trailer but that comes with the heavy weight. Travel trailers are very subjective to both cross and headwinds making them feel harder to tow. Some minor sway is common but there are few things you can do to reduce more serious sway. Make sure you have enough tongue weight first of all and you may want to get a set of Timbrens to get rid of the suspension sag. There are better "no sway" hitches but they are expensive. I use a basic WD hitch like yours towing a 10K travel trailer without any issues. Enjoy your new camper!
 
As stated above you need to do some adjusting on the hitch heighth and the WD hookup. Start with everything level, trailer and truck. Adjust the tow hitch to hook up at that level then as stated adjust the torque arms to maintain that level. Probably have to hook up trailer then jack up rig with the trailer tongue jack (not the levelers) to get the proper tension on the bars. bg
 
Looks like RV is nose low??? Get it "LEVEL". Air tires to 80psi for side wall stiffness! TT's are notorious for wanting to sway. On a 12V towing you should keep the rpm's 1,800 or higher!
 
I've pulled more than 50 of those out of La Grande, none of them swayed. The only TTs that sway are ones that are loaded incorrectly or have a mechanical fault. I've towed hundreds of TTs, new, used, loaded and empty. I haven't encountered one that swayed yet. The only thing you need is to setup your W/D better or possibly heavier weight distribution bars judging by the height of the back of your pickup.

Contrary to popular belief, TTs have more aerodynamic drag than a similar sized 5er, so your mileage sounds about right. If your engine is stock I don't see an issue there either.
 
did you have anything in the garage of the TT? looks like you might have to much tongue weight? wait till you get it loaded out for a trip. then see if you still have the issues, don't be scared of the RPM's.
 
Thanks all who have replied. I will try to respond to each of you accordingly:

TConver - My concern with the WD hitch, it is rated at a bare minimum (my opinion) with a tongue weight of only 1000lbs. Granted I am not there yet, but close at about 750-800 lbs. This is completely empty. I would have to double check the next time I go the storage facility where we have it. The class IV receiver hitch I have installed is rated at 1400 lbs with Weight Distribution Hitch Tongue Weight. Tongue Weight alone, no weight distribution hitch, 1200 lbs. My thought of upgrading the WDH to something more stout and to match my Class IV receiver hitch would be better, stronger bars.

KenHwy61 - The trailer would be maxed out at 10k when fully loaded according to manufacturer's specs. The truck squated about 5" upon hookup with the trailer. The truck does have the extra overload springs. With a squat of 5" approximately, I would think there is plenty of tongue weight. Just an opinion, but not sure. I did like the Timbrens after perusing their website. On order. Should arrive in a few days.

B.G. Smith - Thinking of getting a better WDH. Something that is not rated at MAX once the trailer is loaded. The WDH that came with the trailer seems to be only 'adequate' weight wise. Bars a bit thin.

Cummins12V98 - I do agree. Tires on the truck are 'E' rated and set at 60psi. I did not air them up to 80psi after hooking up the trailer. During the 330 mile trip home, stopping at rest ares, etc. Checking the rear tires with the back of my hand, I found them barely warm, primarily the tread area and not sidewalls. As with the trailer tires, Goodyears 'D'rated. In a few weeks we are planning a trip to the coast and will make sure I air everything to MAX to see how it handles. Granted, I will probably not get out of 4th gear due to the hilly/curvy road to arrive at said destination.

GAmes - I think I have touched on your suggestion in the previous replies to others in this post. If not, please do let me know as this is all a learning process for me.

Killer223 - You asked if I had anything in the 'Garage' of the TT? I am not sure I understand, but this trailer is not a Toy Hauler. I apologize if I do not understand your question. Tongue weight rating on the truck is 900 lbs. I do know I did not reach that.

Jace
 
My mistake, I thought it a toy hauler by how far back to axles are located, and the rear entrance door. Usually on toy haulers. Sorry,
Even still, you need to get weight loaded with clothes, food water etc. then see how it does, they tow very differently loaded.
 
Do you have a front end level kit on your pickup? The Kurt hitch is fine, once adjusted and not the problem. I think you are/were apprehensive of the tow so you were attuned to every little bobble the trailer made. Relax and enjoy that fine RV.

Nick
 
How I would start out setting up a rig for the first time, is to have just the truck weighed per axle loaded, as if you were leaving the house for your trip with all passengers fuel and gear. Its important to know what weight your distributing to your front and rear axles when trailer is hitched up. Have your trailer set up as well, as your going to be camping with. If your going to dry camp, then you need to make sure your fresh water tank is full, other wise enough water to use toilet and miscellaneous use will be better. Make sure your Propane tanks are full, unless you can refill them where your going. Propane tanks when full will add a lot of extra tongue weight because there located at the front of the trailer. Once you have the level adjusted properly, (especially the front being level) have it weighed per truck axle and the trailer tandem axle weight. Now you have a better way to decide to add weight to the tongue if necessary. With the front axle up as high as I see in the picture, it can have a negative effect on handling, giving you the feeling that the trailer is swaying. That is one of many reasons a 5ver is easier to handle, because you distribute some weight to front axle. I posted a picture of my weights when I set up my Arctic Fox 5ver. Sorry, I couldn't find the Truck axle weight W/O 5ver.

003.jpg


image.jpg
 
20 years ago people felt that 180 hp wasn't enough, so many of them added some power, such as a TST kit, to 230 hp or so. Unfortunately the egr air intake horn is very restricted internally, to about the size of a quarter, so not much air can get into the engine. Some people modified the horn to get full internal size while retaining the egr, or without egr (by using the 49 state horn).
 
Last edited:
I suppose I should have researched the hitch you listed. I agree with Nick, your W/D is fine. I use one that is almost identical for my job. Obviously I can't be hauling around a selection of bars so I use the 1000 pound bars for all the front heavy trailers I pull (except pintle hitches of course). Your receiver is up to the task as well, IMO. This video, although using a different type of spring bar, gives the correct info for setting up your rig once you have it loaded for travel.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkewkvU8Ot8
 
I towed RV's about 80K miles with my '98 12 valve. It was modestly modded with a Banks kit but the best change I made was a 4K Gov. Spring kit. The 8K Komfort pull trailer was way too heavy on the tongue and tended to sway quite a bit. My fiver towed much better, including a trip to Alaska, but I added air bags to level everything out. My truck DID have o'load leaves in the rear and that also made a difference. Keep trying different adjustments on your bars until you find the best one for you. Addition of a friction sway bar might also help a lot.

PS- An exhaust brake like the BD I added was also a fantastic benefit.
 
Last edited:
Addition of a friction sway bar might also help a lot.

If you had added an "anti-sway" gizmo to your hitch pulling the trailer that "was way too heavy on the tongue and tended to sway quite a bit" you would have found it wouldn't have made a bit of difference. You don't say you were using a W/D hitch, so I assume you were not. The "sway" was caused by lack of weight on the steering axle.
 
OK, air to 80psi truck get the TT level and keep rpm's up and enjoy the ride!!! When you weigh try front axle you may not need 80psi. use the weight/inflation chart and add 10psi.
 
The axles on the trailer do appear to be back a little more than "normal" for not being a toy hauler. The next time you go to the scales, if you can (loaded for travel) drop the hitch jack down on the scale with only the hitch on the scale and see what your tongue weight is, it might surprise you! On my trailer, bumper pull with the axles too far back I was up to 2,320 lbs ! Your's won't be anywhere near that, but it might be higher than you think. I'd be willing to bet you'll be at 1,300-1,500lbs or so. My buddy has a trailer similar to yours with the axles a little farther back than "normal" as well and it overloads the trucks rear axle/tires by 1,100lbs due to the tongue weight with only one quad in the truck box. It's a 2010 2500.
 
Back
Top