2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission First step to reduce steering wander

[GOLDENCANTINA]

Mileage is 188,500. Mostly highway, seldom towing. My trucks suspension is original with exception of Rancho 9000 shocks-soft settings. Tire wear is normal. It pulls to the right and I'm always making steering inputs to keep it straight. I've seen a bazillion posts about suspension woes, what would be my first step-have alignment checked? Replace the steering damper?

 

[fest3er]

Have the alignment checked; they'll check the front end components and tell you which ones are really bad, but they won't necessarily tell you the ones that aren't obvious.

Since all the parts are original, plan to replace all of it:

• stabilizer links
• tie rod ends
• track bar
• ball joints
• axle u-joints
• front suspension bushings (they may seem OK, but are really worn out by 100K miles)
• rear suspension bushings (they may allow the rear end to waggle, affecting steering).
• steering shaft

Then install a steering gear output shaft stabilizer (SolidSteel and others make them).

If you still have wander after that, toss/sell the tires and get some with stiffer sidewalls (commercial-grade tires, for instance).

 

[JustDave]

I agree with Neal's list but would add pitman and idler arms (if your 4wd has them) and jam nut adjustment on the steering box. I would also suggest you look at the front end while your truck's on jack stands to see if there is any play in any of the attachment points. However, it's probably time to replace everything with the mileage you mentioned. You sure got good life out of the OEM parts.



I'm going through the front end of my 2wd truck right now. I'm replacing everything with greasable Moog components. No particular reason for Moog other than I got great prices from Amazon. There are other high quality vendors like Spicer, McQuay-Norris, NAPA, etc. Just make sure they're greasable and have a good warranty.



You know the procedures if you've serviced a front end before. If not, not a hard job. The only thing for me was my spindle/rotor assembly was very heavy and I had to use a small bottle jack to lift it and hold it on the new ball joint studs so I could start the castle nuts. The results were well worth the effort on my truck. My steering accuracy is much improved and is a pleasure to drive again.



Dave

 

[KRStone]

Steering stabilizer doesn't cause wander, only absorbs shocks.



Wander most likely caused by worn tie rod ends and track bar-to-truck attachment.



Have someone crank wheel back and forth while it's not running but steering unlocked (key in run position), lie down under the front of the truck and see what's 'popping' around.



KRS

 

[fest3er]

Steering stabilizer doesn't cause wander, only absorbs shocks.



Wander most likely caused by worn tie rod ends and track bar-to-truck attachment.



Have someone crank wheel back and forth while it's not running but steering unlocked (key in run position), lie down under the front of the truck and see what's 'popping' around.



KRS

With 200K-250K miles on them, the front suspension bushings caused significant steering uncertainty as well as premature tire wear. Years ago when my truck was new, an alignment expert in IL told me to replace the Dodge suspension bushing by 90K because they do wear out and they do cause steering issues. And even more years before that, my '66 Gutless ended up with really scary steering because the bushings were completely shot. No human, not even a moose, can generate forces equal to the dynamic forces encountered when driving one of these little trucks down the road. The OEM bushings may seem solid, but if they have more than 90K on them, replace them. Replace them with OEM, with polyurethane, or with grease-able bronze. I should've replace mine at 100K; I probably wouldn't've worn out two sets of 19. 5s if I had paid attention to my own warnings.