Here I am

First time load for the HX40

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Towing thru SE Utah

Tired of tire problems

Yesterday I hauled 2 loads of 18 1500lbs. hay rolls from Mt. Sterling, KY to Grayson, KY. Not a huge trip, just 150 miles both ways. Had to stop and fill up at a truck stop and decided to run through the scales to see how much I weighed. GVW was 40,500lbs. After that I hit the interstate, set the cruise on 70, and sat back. There are some pretty good hills on I 64 once you get East of Morehead. The truck only went down to 65 and the pyro never got higher than 1300 degrees. Boost pressure stayed at 37psi. I could not have been happier. I was a little worried about having oversize injectors and towing with them, but everything stayed where it should have. Now, I did put the Smarty on CAtcher # 1 and the TST was purely for timing advance only with it on 1/0. Not bad for a 3/4 ton.
 
I can travel the state with free reign. Anymore than that and it wouldn't be ecconomical to use a pickup to haul loads. Kinda takes care of itself.
 
When you took it across the scales, it should of given you your axle weights. What were your axle weights? If you go over the axle weight ratings, it wont matter what State your in, DOT will come down hard on you if caught. And your insurance company might pay, if theres an accident, even if its not your fault, but they could cancel your policy after its all over. Your farm tag/insurance will be fine if you stay within your axle ratings.
 
Thanks 2Rowdy. If I wanted an education in DOT laws I would have went to the department of transportation. Oh, and since I've spilled the beans I guess all the DOT cops are going to be looking for me. Gee, I hope I don't see any. They will probably be busy working wrecks on all the travel trailers piloted by morons who find their way in the ditch.
 
mr shipp, good to see your informative post. my stock 05 dodge will hit 1300 in a heart beat, this kinda worries me. my 02 ford wont hit those temps no matter what. as for the the 3rd degree, i learned long ago not to post weights that i often run. i spent years running those kinds of weights and more,on a 3/4 ton gmc diesel. didnt do it cause i wanted to, but because i had to. when the money got right, i upgraded to a dually. i still run overloaded, but not nearly as bad. it comes with being in the ranching and contruction trade. havin said this , these boys are giving sound advise. the farm tags get you so much, but in an accident rest assured, the d. o. t will show up. mfw rateings will be what the investigations will be based on. this day and time that opens a whole can of worms. .
 
I'm sure you know about the small exhaust housing that comes stock on a common rail engine. That is why I upgraded to the 40. Mine has a 16cm2 housing and flows much better. I understand the advise, and take it for what it is worth. The point of this post was to educate some towing guys on a setup that works, and works well. The wieght was meant to give credit. Not to bring the correct police out of the wood work. Now, if anyone has any questions regarding the part# of the turbo, or anything of the like, feel free to ask. Otherwise, telling me that I'm wrong is just going to waste the muscle movement it takes to punch the keys. It's better used to lift your favorite 12oz. beverage.
 
good point. sort of falls in line with that old saying, mind your buisness so you wont be minding mine. what kinda coin did the 40 cost you, and do you recall the differences in egts before and after.
 
I got the 40 from a friend who was going to use it on his pulling tractor. It had never been used and was not a reman. Paid 300 for it. I changed out the turbo before the injectors. EGTs went from 650 at 70mph empty to 500 running the same. The only problem I have is sometimes I get a low boost code. I'm guessing it's because the 40 puts out less boost while not under load. A lot of people say that the 40 is weak, and I would agree, but for my application it works fine. It also has the 60mm compressor wheel. The 40s will last as long as you stay around 35 psi.
 
i'am guessing the 40 wont deliver the low end response that the 35 would, but better top end? when warranty is up, i plan on some type of upgrade. i dont mind loosing a bit of low end, so long as top end stays the same or a bit better. from a power stand point, i'am content with the truck, after all i do run overloaded often. kept in the weighted load range, i dont see how any one could complain about the power of them, but that's a matter of opinion. bottom line i'am looking for the most effetive way to safely lower egt's.
 
I agree, the stock trucks have plenty of power. Just 20 years ago the 5. 9 only had 180 hp and we thought they could pull anything. I really didn't notice an increase in lag with a straight pipe. Since then I have gone to a muffler and notice a little bit, but nothing a slight change in driving style won't fix. The only time I notice is when I lug the engine from being too lazy to downshift after a long day. The biggest thing to improve egts is to open up the turbine housing. That enables you to stay in the thottle longer while loaded.
 
They will probably be busy working wrecks on all the travel trailers piloted by morons who find their way in the ditch.



I find this to be a very ignorant and offensive statement, since the 1st thought that comes to mind is my friend who hit some ice and trashed his 5th wheel a week or so ago on his way to a job. He was lucky that he didn't get seriously hurt.

I hope you don't kill somebody when your rig fails at 40k lbs.

Grow up and get a clue.
 
not choosing sides here, but i think the point mr. shipp is trying to make here is , there's are a lot of folks driveing up and down the road pulling big boats and campers, who dont have a clue what their doing. the average farmer/rancher or contractor pulls heavy for a living. folks like this are experienced at what they are doing. just because a farm hand is loading a truck trailer combo to more then the factory rateings, dosent automaticly make him more dangerous. with the boom in campers the last few years, i have seen many people who never pulled more then a lawnmower trailer with a toyota, jump out and buy a 5 ton travel trailer and a high powered diesel truck , and drive it like they did that toyota. based on the accidents i have witnessed over the years[ my brother owns two wrecker outfits/ + i was an emergency response volunteer for many years] and the number of campers and boats i count frequently at the local insurance salvage pool, i would agree with the man. i myself pull a 37ft snowbird , but i didnt get offended by the post. in my contracting buisness, i'am required to have a class A cdl to pull my trailers. personally i feel theat folks pulling certain weight classes of rv's should have to have to meet the same requirments. i dont feel any safer pulling my travel trailer then i do my dozers , backhoe's, or farm equipment. any of those loads are usually much heavier. sorry if this offends anyone, just my opinion. .
 
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I find this to be a very ignorant and offensive statement, since the 1st thought that comes to mind is my friend who hit some ice and trashed his 5th wheel a week or so ago on his way to a job. He was lucky that he didn't get seriously hurt.

I hope you don't kill somebody when your rig fails at 40k lbs.

Grow up and get a clue.

The clue to my quote would have been moron. I can't help what you call your friend. If the shoe fits then wear it I guess.
 
not choosing sides here, but i think the point mr. shipp is trying to make here is , there's are a lot of folks driveing up and down the road pulling big boats and campers, who dont have a clue what their doing. the average farmer/rancher or contractor pulls heavy for a living. folks like this are experienced at what they are doing. just because a farm hand is loading a truck trailer combo to more then the factory rateings, dosent automaticly make him more dangerous. with the boom in campers the last few years, i have seen many people who never pulled more then a lawnmower trailer with a toyota, jump out and buy a 5 ton travel trailer and a high powered diesel truck , and drive it like they did that toyota. based on the accidents i have witnessed over the years[ my brother owns two wrecker outfits/ + i was an emergency response volunteer for many years] and the number of campers and boats i count frequently at the local insurance salvage pool, i would agree with the man. i myself pull a 37ft snowbird , but i didnt get offended by the post. in my contracting buisness, i'am required to have a class A cdl to pull my trailers. personally i feel theat folks pulling certain weight classes of rv's should have to have to meet the same requirments. i dont feel any safer pulling my travel trailer then i do my dozers , backhoe's, or farm equipment. any of those loads are usually much heavier. sorry if this offends anyone, just my opinion. .

Mr. Ueckert, you are correct with your assumption. I have very much experience with loads and how to load them right to even things out. Been doing it for a while. You took my words exactly how they were meant. Inexperienced trailer drivers should not be operating huge motorhomes. If you got the experience, then roll on.
 
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