Fitting problem w/tran cooler line

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When I had my truck at the dealer to fix my hard start problem I requested they replace the transmission fittings mentioned in the TDR[dealer subscribes]. Ser advr said there was no p/n for the item besides I had a 95 which doesn't use the plastic fittings. So off to Sask. Canada 3500 mi round trip. In Auburn, Ca. about 120 mi, coming home, the back of the truck was clean as a whistle. In Roseville 85 mi. to go, the back was covered with nasty red oil. Trouble shooting revealed the tran. line fitting at the water to oil cooler had failed wherein I lost three qts of oil. That coffee stop save me a new transmission. To replace the line and fitting dealer quoted 350. 00. Upon further investigation of the failure mode noticed a 'U' shaped clip held the line in the fitting. The clip was missing, by using good ole plow wire and back pocket pliers replaced missing clip. I later found a piece of the clip on the frame which showed evidence of vibration wear through. Hope I get 90k on the wire like the OEM. A check of the clip can be made by pulling down on the loop. If it bends replace it. Save yourself a lot of money.

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95 ext cab 3500 shaker Whitney boost gage air springs/Amerigo camper.

 

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My wife called one day while I was @ work and said my truck broke down #ad
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She said she put it in gear,and it didn't want to go anywhere, so she drove it across town(about 7 miles) to a buddy's workplace and he said to SHUT IT DOWN NOW! It was spewing ATF like a can of beer! A week later when I got off work to see my poor truck smeared with ATF everywhere, I cried in disbelief as I found a transmission cooler line connector had failed. So I drove down in my friends "F-word" to Gene's Chrysler here in Fairbanks, AK where they quoted me 400 bananas for a complete transmission cooler line replacement set! #ad
(bananas are RARE here in Alaska) So I drove the "censored" truck down to Alaska Rubber, and promptly bought $30 worth of fittings and DAYCO hose. #ad
The hose is 1/2 inch inside dia... ... SPECIAL push-on fittings, and it's good for 300 psi with NO clamps! I replaced all lines in 20 minutes (rated @ 2 cans of beer for the whole job). 12 qts. of ATF later, and the ol' ram ran over the "F-word" again! To get this stuff, contact your local Hydraulic/industrial/tractor/hose/(but not the pet... . )/store and they should be able to hook you up. I don't have to worry about replacement weatherheads cracking due to vibration, and there is a lot more flexibility when plumbing your transmission lines! My transmission suffered no damage thru this whole fiasco(thank God), and had to give my friend a ride because of his broke a$$ "censored" truck(it suffered catastrophic damage upon seeing the ram for the second time in one day... . a valve dropped in his #7 cylinder right after fixing my truck) initially the plan was for his phord to tow the Ram, but instead, the Ram saved the day, and towed his to the yard. "Cummins-getit!" #ad


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Jason Case
'95 2500 4x4 Auto Reg Cab
BD torque converter and valvebody, #5 fuel plate, BD 4" exhaust turbo back, K&N RE-0880,transmission temp, boost and egt gauges.
Pressure Lock installed

'99 KTM 300 EXC

[This message has been edited by sixkill (edited 11-18-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

Jason,good idea with the hydraulic hose. Take it from a farmer(me)who deals with it all the time,anywhere the hose touches anything it will eventually wear through. I prevent this by slipping a larger hose that is cut lengthwise over the hyd hose and securing with cable ties. Do this anywhere the hose is secured or rubbing,even on another hyd hose and you'll be in business for a long time.

 

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Good point. I use an anti-chaff tape around all possible wear spots. I really like this "no clamps needed" hose, really affordable and a lot easier to use than steel lines. #ad

 

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Hey klic,
The fittings you describe are the same as my '94 had. I updated to the new style (no wire) parts. The updated parts are the ones that thread into the cooler (block mounted) and the trans. They fail too. The current update consists of a new line with a rigid mount on the trans end and a flexible hose on the cooler end. Cost is around $120 as I recall. I don't have the part numbers off hand but they should be in the archives.
Tip: take the flexible hose end off and cut the rubber anti-drainback valve out of it. The easiy way to do it is to take a scrap of appropriatly sized steel tubing (fuel line) and chuck it up in a drill. Use a piece of rod to get the little pieces out.
I would replace the remaining wire retained fittings as they will fail just like the first one did.
Good luck.

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'94 3500 4x4, 204,000 miles, Never had a cat, Auto w/shift kit (thanks Dave G), 3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro gauges inplace of cupholder & Amsoil Bumper to Bumper. NRA member. Blue Ribbon Coalition member.
"Warrantee? We don't need no stinking warrantee!"