Flatbed Purchase/Install Question

[Kiohio]

Will the "standard" generic flatbeds fit 1st gens without much trouble?

Truck has a standard bed on it right now.

Anyone out there with suggestions or pics of an install? I would like to install it as low as possible, close to the frame.

I would very much appreciate any tips etc.

Going to look at a used replacement flatbed this weekend.



KO

 

[MXTMOPR]

I have a flat bed on my truck. It was installed professionally by a shop in Georgia. They used several pieces of horizontal box steel between the bed and the frame rails. This will give you the clearance needed for full suspension travel under full load. My load limiters on the frame are allowed full contact with the leaf springs and the tires clear the structure of the bed by an inch. This is assuming you plan on running stock height rubber and rims. Do the math before starting to weld stuff!!! Send me an email if you need photos of my rig. Also, check out my readers rigs shots, some of the bed framework is visible.

 

[Philip]

The arch over the axle is going to be the spot that sets the bed installed height. You could trim the bottom of main rail of the bed to drop it down lower onto the frame of the truck.



When I helped Case500D put a flat bed on his W350. We had to make up a new bed sub frame setup. We used 6" channell for the main frame work. I notched 2" out of the section that goes over the kickup at the rear axle. Then to secure the bed to the frame. We used 5" angle sections about 4" long and drilled them to bolt to the orginal P/U bed mounting points. Then we bolted them to the bed mounts and welded them to the new bed sub frame. Doing the install this way makes it a cleaner install and the bed can removed by taking out the same bolts that your orginal bed used.



I'll have a flat bed within a month or so. I am just waiting on the call telling me it is finished.

 

[1stgen4evr]

I drove a flatbed Ford for a lot of years and it had a factory flatbed. They cut a piece of hard wood two by six to the profile of the frame and the bed was fastened with u-bolts. The main rails of the bed and the frame were the same width. A lot of the 'generic' beds don't have the correct width for a Dodge. I have a couple of flatbeds on salvaged truck frames and neither have the exact width of the Dodge frames (an 03 and a 93). In both cases, whoever installed them just welded the two rails together using some spacers.



The 93 has two inch square tubing in three places along the frame (each side). The 03 has a fabed bracket on the front but is welded on the rear. I will use one of these to make a flatbed service trailer. (Welder, air compressor, torches, angle lid tool box) The other is going on my club cab 92 that a friend wants to buy. If I were starting from scratch, I would make the bed rails the same deminsion as the truck and use the wood spacer like the factory Ford.



I think it is important to have something to transfer the bed load to the frame at the points where the springs attach. This keeps from twisting the truck frame under really heavy load.



But none of it is "much trouble" if you have the right tools.



James

 

[GardnerM]

I just measured the width of the bed runners going on and axed it ,re-welded it (5" channel) then welded four 5" channel on the corners to make it fit perfectly over the rear tires while loaded down (gives you two inches over the frame bend). I would never notch out channel to get a truck bed closer to the frame. I also installed a Rugby hoist so I can haul and deliver two tons respectfully.

 

[SGibson]

Both my 88&89 trucks are C/C's the diesel had a knapheide 12ft flatbed and the 88 is a 8ft crysteel dump, both trucks have a bolt on shim/spacer to "make" flat framerails they look identical except length like it's a mopar part, maybe you could find them at a junkyard. I would definitly install it on some inch oak runners, no less than 6 u-bolts, and at least a 6x6 flat gusset welded on each side, plate the rear or at least a mansfield bar.

 

[Kiohio]

I sort of figured that it would be a rather "custom" install but wasn't sure how much we were getting into. I do like the idea of using channel or box steel to take up the space between the frame and the bed. The truck has the 6" frame so anything to help stiffen it up will be a plus. We are planning on putting on the flatbed then making a removable dovetail to put on it with landscape ramps to hual 0-turns on.



The info/tips are very helpful!



KO

 

[Philip]

If you go with the wood and u-bolts. Be sure to ground the bed to the truck chassis. When the wood starts to scrink the U-bolts might loose the ground for you.



I would use native wood if your inclined to go that way. Pressure treated and kilm dryed seems to splinter/crack/rot worse in this type of app. Native lasts a lot longer.



I have had 5 trucks with flatbeds on them. My W350 will be #6. Three had wood for spacers. That is why I mentioned grounding the bed to the chassis. Nothing like have a police officer whine to you about lights blinking on and off. LOL

 

[Kiohio]

I went and looked at the bed... .

What do you know it came off of a 1991 350. It was set up to slide down over the frame and bolt thru it. Frame blocks are all already welded on the bed. Is the frame width different on the 89 250 and a 91 350? Or dually. I guess the question should be are there any frame width differences between the configurations? I know some frames are taller, but what about the width?

Thanks guys

KO

 

[Philip]

As far as I know the frames are the same width.



I just checked reese hitch website and it shows the same hitch for 86 to 93 models. If the frames were different widths. The hitches would be different.

 

[Kiohio]

Cool, I had never thought of that... .

Thank you very much.



KO