Fleetguard Centrifugal Separator CH41102 anyone?

[Chief USA]

Where did you get those oil pressure figures from? They sound like minimum acceptable oil pressure values and not typical operational oil pressure values. I think at the lowest end of the pressure spectrum in actual operation you might see something in the range of 30 psi and a high in the range of 60. That would be higher in very cold temps.



I have never put an actual guage on the engine running to verify. Perhaps someone who has could jump in with some actual field info. and figures?

 

[AH64ID]

After doing some more digging, I'm shying away from this filter as the published oil pressures from the Service Manual indicate the oil pressures to be lower than what makes the filter effective. From the service manual for the 6. 7:



OIL PRESSURE SPECIFICATION

SPECIFICATION



At Idle

69 kPa (10 psi)



@ 2500 rpm

207 kPa (30 psi)



Regulating Valve Opening Pressure

517 kPa (75 psi)



Oil Filter Bypass Pressure Setting

344. 75 kPa (50 psi)



So I'm off trying to decide between the FS-2500 bypass filter set-up or the Dieselcraft OC-25. I still have some work to do... .



Thx for the input,

Glenn

Those are minnimum pressures. At cruise you will be between 40-60.



Look at the Amsoil. Cheaper and more efficient than the FS-2500. I don't know much about the dieselcraft, but it doesn't list its required pressure. There is no reason to think it will work any better than the Cummins one.

 

[glenncooper]

Now I'm not sure! These figures are out of the service manual, they certainly do sound low, and maybe they mean these are the minimums. I'm in no hurry, I'm hoping to get this installed before the summer towing season. I'm too cheap to rush into buying the "wrong unit" and wring my hands over the wasted money. I still would like to keep my oil as clean as possible, I'm just not clear on the best way to achieve that.

Thx for input, I'll continue monitoring this post to see if there is clarity.

Cheers,
Glenn

 

[AH64ID]

A centrifuge will keep you oil the cleanest. But to be honest I am not sure if you will ever get the added cost back in engine life or oil. Consider the OEM filter is 35um, and these motors go hundreds of thousands of miles. Most wear is caused in the 4-7 um range, so a 15um full flow and a 2um bypass will essentially remove all wear causing particles.



The biggest issue with the newer motors and modern oil is soot buildup. The motors put more soot in the oil, and the oil is designed to keep it suspended and not agglomerated. This makes it very hard to filter out, and its where a centrifuge comes into play.



My . 02 is to run an Amsoil full flow (15um) and bypass (2um) for a year and do UOA. If the oil isn't clean enough for your liking sell the Amsoil and run a centrifuge.



As for the pressure those are min's. My 05 service manual says the same pressures and it and I can tell you I have never seen that low of pressures. 18 at idle is normal when hot, 22 when warm. The lowest I have seen while crusing was 38 at 2K rpms after a 5 mile hill pull at 1200+ EGT's. Normal at 2K is 55-58psi.

 

[courierdog]

Glen:

I worked for over a year attempting to get a spinner II to work on my 6. 7.

It was a no go. Most of the issue was related to the Oil Return. both the 5. 9 and 6. 7 have a 5/8 inch spare turbo oil return port to the sump.

Most of these centrifuge devices require 1 inch plus return line.

I did all my work in side the engine compartment.

I suspect if I had remote mounted it in the box or shall I say above the box level it may have worked.

The issue is directly related to the return, as the inlet is sufficient to make the centrifuge spin.

The other thing I have been studying is using a small air compressor and going with the air assist return return.

There is no question the centrifuge is the way to go for todays high soot engines.

Many Bus companies utilize the centrifuge system to aid them in maintaining their engine longevity. As You know a bus is most likely to be the extreme worst case for soot in a diesel engine.

 

[courierdog]

I for one would welcome any one who can show me how to actually get a centrifuge up and running on my truck. There is no doubt the centrifuge does in fact work.
The logistical problems are
1. oil pressure to spin the centrifuge, without sacrificing oil pressure and volume to run the engine.
2. provide an adequate oil return to evacuate the centrifuge so it will keep spinning.
All my experiments to date seem to indicate there is insufficient oil pressure to keep the centrifuge spinning and insufficiently large enough oil return path to totally evacuate the centrifuge and thus swamping the action of the centrifuge.
If there is any one out there who can provide assistance I for one would be extremely pleased.
The centrifuge is capable of filtering down to sub micron levels thus keeping the engine totally free of any soot particles from clogging any part of the operation in the engine.
Due to the lack of room in the engine compartment I currently run all my oil filtration experiments in the box thus I have more access and freedom to change the mounting to suit the requirements.

 

[seafish]

I am planning on installing a Spinner 2 in my 2005 truck.



I am going to experiment with mounting it to the TOP of the oil fill cap on the valve cover, so that the oil return goes straight from the bottom of the spinner into the top of the engine. It would involve modifying the oem oil fill cap to accept the return line form the Spinner and likely tig welding the 2 pieces together. The oil supply line would come from the standard location. It IS a very tight fit in terms of height of the filter and underneath of the hood, but I am almost sure that it will fit without touching the hood. Worse case scenario would involve replacing the hood with an oem viper hood with air scoop to allow for the the extra needed height in mounting the Spinner in top of tha valve cover. I think that this would also have an oil cooling effect, though this is just a guess and it might only be neglibible. Just ideas right now, but I DO have the parts (except for the viper hood) and inclination to make this work some day. This is on a 5. 9, don't know how it would fit on the 6. 7L .

 

[glenncooper]

Hey Courierdog and Seafish, happy to hear I'm not the only one trying to figure out how to get the soot out of the oil. I don't have the luxury of experimenting and I am grateful someone has the same interest as myself. I want to keep this truck alive as long as possible, and I figured the pay back may take decades but I'm hoping to keep it alive till then! I don't get to drive it as much as I like but I intend to retire in five years and hope to get more "towing time" in then and would love to have all of this figured out. If anyone can help, I too would appreciate the details.

Cheers,
Glenn