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flipin axle fliping

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I have been wanting to get more clearance between my bed and goose neck and was looking into lowering the rear of my truck. I can find no way that's not expensive or reversable if I do not like it. I now think I will just put my springs on top of the axles. I can get the parts for about $50. 00 and change it back if I don't like it. I would just like some feed back on the pros and cons. Does it raise the trailer to the point that it feels unstable? Any other feed back would be appreciated. I have a 16 Ft, 14 K goose that I use at maximum capacity for a lot of miles.
 
I'm not sure about trailers, but spring over conversions on 4x4 vehicles have a tendency to wrap the springs more because of the extra leverage. Remember the lift is the thickness of the axle tube + the thickness of the spring pack. On a trailer you only have braking to worry about, but it *could* permanently deform the springs and make it more difficult to return to the original configuration. Something to consider.



In your post on lowering of the rear you mentioned that you may have the blocks machined. I know for sure that they cut easily with bandsaw and/or Bridgeport. A friend use both to trim the "older" solid Dodge blocks for use on his Brand F. IMO, $150 sounds kinda high for just machining the blocks. Might want to check around - or use the hacksaw and grinder if you're feeling brave. I think the "older" blocks (#?) are almost solid, the "newer" blocks (#5210625AA on top of the bumpstop portion of the block) are much thinner wall - changed maybe 2000 or 2001? The old blocks are fully rectangular, the new blocks have a vertical U-shaped divot at the center. I'm not sure if the new blocks are as easy to cut.
 
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I bought a kit made for doing the axle flip.

My axles are made by Dexter and they make

2 kits depending on axle Diameter.

It did a great job, was simple and easy.

Can't tell any difference in towing.
 
I put a set of Dexter kits on my 5ver last spring. Towed over 11,000 miles this summer. At the end of the season I took the kit out because I felt the trailer set too high over the axles and in high winds the trailer became very tippy. This was on a high profile 5ver. The year before I had the axles flipped on a low profile trailer and had no problems at all. Just my experience!
 
Trailer Height

Dodge has a factory lowering kit for your truck. I looked into this a few months ago. At the rear of the springs (where they attach to the rear of the frame) You can get an extension that pushes the rear end of your truck down. Dodge has a service bulletin on this (see the latest issue of TDR). If you lower your truck by cutting the blocks, You might have conflict problems with the sway control on the rear axile.
 
over/under slung kits

I bought the dexter kit to move the axel under the spring pack and gained about 4. 5" - - Also gained a little sway but I think it is the tire sidewalls flexing more since they are border line on capacity anyway. Going to replace tires next year with the next range up for margin of safty.
 
I "flipped" the axels (i. e. put springs on top of axel) on my last fiver, a 12K high profile, 102" wide. I towed it about 20K miles and never felt it all unstable or a problem.



Vaughn
 
If your truck is a 4x4, then just get smaller blocks to replace. it will lower the rear of your truck about 4-5" instead of the 5-6" block that is in there now, get a set that is like 2-4" and get shorter u-bolts. problem solved. if you want the hight back, reinstall the old parts. Easy!

Eric
 
I have towed mine for over 10,000 miles with flipped springs. Assuming what you are towing is not very tall and top heavy there will no real change in stability. Springs sitting on top of the axles seems like it would be stronger than hanging from a weld, but that may not be the case.
 
I have a 25ft Big Tex gooseneck I flipped the axles on. It cost me ten dollars for the new spring pads. I welded them on and it tows just fine and doesnt drag the back of the dovetail anymore. I also flipped the axles on my 2002 triple slide fifth wheel for ten dollars and it tows great also. I tow these with a 96 2500 4x4. :
 
Note about the Dodge factor lowering kit:



If you have the helper springs they must be removed to install the loweringkit and can not be reinstalled without removing the kit.



I definitly want the helper springs because of 14,000 lb fifthwheel.

Therore I could not lower my truck with the Dodge TSB kit.



Mike
 
Posm



I got the axel pads for about $2. 00 each, and welded them on top of the axel. Leaving the old pads on the bottem. Worked real good, 23 ft. TT. Looks better, and rear does'nt drag anymore. 75 MPH Calif to Texas & back. Could'nt even tell I was towing a trailer. I was using the 2500 truck.
 
We have a flatbed gooseneck trailer w/dovetail that towed level with my old 2wd, but all our trucks now are 4wds. What is a reasonable price for a place to make up some small blocks and longer U-bolts? I had a shop look at it today, he said he could do it for $400. I bet he could. He said putting blocks in to raise it would take no time, but he said he'd have to make custom blocks and U-bolts that jacked up his price to do it. If anyone knows of any place in Southern Cal or Las Vegas that might be cheaper, let me know.
 
Originally posted by DodgeTorqueWagon

I'm not sure about trailers, but spring over conversions on 4x4 vehicles have a tendency to wrap the springs more because of the extra leverage.



This is because of the torque being applied to the tires through the axles. Trailer axles should not wrap due to torque.



Blake
 
Originally posted by RBerry

Posm



I got the axel pads for about $2. 00 each, and welded them on top of the axel.



RBerry,



Where did you get your perches (pads)? I need some for my Dexter axles in my trailer.



Thanks,



Blake
 
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