Fluidampr install questions

[Dieselnerd]

I've been using the search function to review a lot of threads about installing a Fluidampr. I still have a couple of questions.



1. New bolts or re-use the old?

2. Loctite or not? If yes, blue or red?

3. Torque, 30 ft. lbs plus 60 degrees or 92 ft. lbs or 121 ft. lbs? This seems to be the question with the greatest variety of answers. Service manual says 30 plus 60 degrees but that seems kind of "iffy" to me.



I have one of these on order and want to be ready when it arrives.



Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[Tinman]

Yes new bolts. They are a few bucks a piece from Cummins.



I don't remember about the Loctite. The damper install instructions will tell you. I don't think it requires any.



Yes the bolts are very tight. FSM: 30lbs plus 60*. You'll need a long torque wrench and some muscle. The Damper install instruction will have that on there as well.



Be sure to get the belt in there before you tighten the damper. It is nearly impossible to squeeze it in after it is installed. It can be done, but you have to bar the engine over to do it.

 

[Dieselnerd]

Thanks Tinman, I ordered some new bolts from the local Cummins dealer today. They had plenty in stock.



I did some Google searches and I think I have all the other answers I needed too. Loctite isn't needed but is extra insurance according to many.

 

[HEMI®Dart]

I used the OEM recommendation of 92 ft lbs. I needed a barring tool w/ a socket wrench against the trans to hold the crank from turning. Loctite NO.

 

[Tinman]

Yeah you'll need a barring tool to hold the engine. There are some threads around here of stock dampers coming loose with major damage, so the 92 foot pounds might not be enough. 30 plus 60* is way more that 92. When I removed the stocker on my 01 with about 160K on it, I was surprised at how easy the bolts were to get out.

 

[Dieselnerd]

In one of my searches, I came across a post by Joe Donnelly. He said he always tightens the damper bolts to 92 ft. lbs and he oils the bolts and flange.



Others say that 30 ft. lbs and 60 degrees equals around 130 ft. lbs.



When I took the damper off of my 2nd gen to change the front seal the bolts did not seem very tight either.



That's probably why a little loctite might be good insurance...

 

[Dieselnerd]

Update

I installed the Fluidampr today. At the same time I put in a new belt since I have 60K on the truck. The damper install was pretty easy, I did need a barring tool but I have one so no problem there. I bent a thick piece of wire to a 60 degree angle for a gauge and then did the 30 ft. lb plus 60 degrees on the new bolts. I also set the torque wrench to 120 ft. lb and it clicked just before the 60 degrees so that means it's slightly more than 120 ft. lbs.



As for the belt, holy #%&***!!!

I never replaced the belt on a 3rd gen before. After getting very frustrated I did a search on belt changes on TDR. After I read all the posts I had a much better understanding of the procedure. I did loosen the bolt on the tensioner, I could not work the belt behind it any other way. It won't be as big a mystery next time although with the Fluidampr you have to loosen it up to get the belt between it and the fan pulley.



Time for a beer!

 

[Wertles]

Test drive then beer!!! No, test drive, report back, then beer!!!

 

[Dieselnerd]

Wertles, I did the test drive before my last post. Idle is much smoother and I got rid of a harmonic vibration between 1500 and 1800 rpm in both 3rd gear and OD that was bugging me. My old damper witness marks were a little out of alignment but the rubber didn't look bad.