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Flywheel bolt removal????

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Ok I have a stupid question. How do I hold the flywheel so I can undo the flywheel bolts. Do you pin it somehow? Hold the the alternator?



Just curious what the easiest way is.
 
roger that... impact is your friend! they come right out w/ nothing holding the flywheel.



I did end up buying an engine barring tool in order to bolt the wheel back up though. if you don't have an impact, I'd go ahead and buy the barring tool, you'll probably want/need it to get it back together.



Forrest
 
Ahhh..... I dont have an impact. No air in my shop yet.



I guess I'll call cummins to see if they have a baring tool. Does Napa stock such a beast?
 
believe it or not Cummins was the cheapest place locally, and only a few dollars higher than the cheapest online supplier!



I just used a long breaker bar wedged against the frame rail... worked like a charm :D



Forrest
 
Did you wedge it in the ring gear? Just curious. I could put a screwdriver in there to pin it but I figured that would be a bad idea.



I dont need to break anything either.....



Just got off the phone with Cummins. 32 bucks and they are open untill 12 tonight... ... wow... . that's pretty cool. I should have asked if they do machine work.
 
there's a chance they've got a grinder to cut the flywheel... but there's also a good chance they just farm that stuff out.



on my cars and stuff, I usually shove a screwdriver through the flywheel to lock it up, but I couldn't find a through-hole on the Cummins flywheel, and I decided that having a barring tool around... probably wouldn't be such a bad thing. :)
 
This may be something I OUGHT to keep to myself.....



But I always just use a set of 10" Vice Grips (They, also, are your friend:D), and clamp it on the edge of the flywheel next to the starter gear. Then the Vice Grip bumps against the starter, and holds it there so you can either break loose or tighten up the bolts. BUT, it does require a fairly strong grip to clamp the Vice Grips together.



Ps- while you are in there, replace the cam plug; it costs <$2, and can save you that much oil in 1000mi by not giving it a chance to puke.



Daniel
 
Ok well I got a new trick..... I used a 2nd socket wrench to losen all of them by holding 1 bolt. Then I braced a wrench in the ring gear and very easily applied pressure untill the last one started moving.



Checked my rear main and it looks good. Where is this cam plug? It has a new rubber plug in the back of the bell housing would this be it?



Thanks guys! All I have to do now is cut the hole in the floor and wait for the transmission to come in!
 
You have to undo the 8 bolts holding the flywheel adaptor (they are in an "A frame" type pattern) and remove the adaptor to get to the cam plug. Be sure to unhook the power to the starter, or it coudl be a shocking experience. The plug is on the back of the bare block, about 10 o'clock from the rear main. Not bad once you get this far. Turns out it was probably what was leaking all along on my pickup.



-DP
 
Ahhh OK... I'll do that tonight.



My truck didnt leak any oil before but I will check it while I'm down there.



Would it be a metal plug? Do I just put some thread sealer on it? Should I call Cummins see if they have a new one?
 
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