We not only grind flywheels but build grinders for production... . Clutch Rebuilding...
I'm not aware of a standard for truck flywheels other than the following.....
We see a lot of flywheels with over 1/4" removed (15 1/2" clutch) to the point that the springs in the flyweel disc hit the flywheel mounting bolts... where we see the problem is the heat build up from a bad driver slipping the ceramic clutch..... On these truck flywheels and ceramic discs its not uncommon to grind off . 060" when they are worn... .
And I can't see where you'd take off less than . 015" when you grind a flywheel with an organic disc..... Like joe mentioned... . I'd never use a shim... to back space the flyweel as you also now spacing the ring gear / starter drive...
On a diaphram type clutch all you've done is move the cover that much closer to the engine... . which if you have to... you can deal with using a longer push rod for the linkage... .
If there is a published specification... . we've never found one... . Also, we've found that often the same flywheel from year to year of the production might have a different thickness... . we don't have a clue why that is... .
What you MUST do is make sure who ever grinds the flywheel for you (never machine) makes sure that the crankshaft mounting flange is where they register the flywheel to on the table..... this assures a flat and parallel surface.....
I've personally never seen a lathe that would allow you to dial in the back of the flywheel (crank mount surface) to make the clutch mating surface parallel... ...
I know this is not an answer but its the input and information we give to those who we teach how to grind flywheels... .
One last comment..... we teach installers to first put the disc, and cover on the flywheel on a bench, push the alignment tool into the disc... . and make sure that all looks normal before they install the flywheels and clutch to the engine...
Hope this helps..... I can talk about this and the problems related to it for hours... . hope this isn't too long... .