2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission FMS- Still no power

[NPloysa]

Ok guys, I am back to nag and whine and complain.



First of all, Chip is awesome and is helping me out as he can.



Second of all, for those of you not up on this, I bought a used box from a guy on the DTR board and am trying to install it with bad luck. I trust him and have no feelings about him that would make me suspicious of him breaking it or sending me a faulty box.



I mentioned trying to hard wire the red and brown power/light wires but Chip said not to. So I did it his way (the right way) with mini fuse taps and female spades.



Brown to #5 and red to #9. All connections are good and tight.



I took the box apart just to make sure all the wires were still soldered and connected after the shipment to Colorado from Maine. Everything is good.



I may run a wire straight to the battery with an inline 10 amp fuse just to double check, unless you guys say not to. I am a crappy electrician and thought I would ask you guys.



Thank you

Nick

 

[jrandol]

Hey Nick do you have the instructions that came with the box? If not I can send you my copies. Lots of good troubleshooting tips in there.

 

[NPloysa]

Hmmm.



You know what. I emailed the guy I bought it from and he mentioned that I may need the pump hooked up for the display to even read. Is that true?



I don't have the pump hooked up yet because I just wanted to use the guages for now but Jeff, like you said, maybe you can fool it by pushing all three buttons while starting it to bypass the diagnoses.



Jeff, I searched and found your post about running with the box up to Evergreen on I-70 and using the guages alone. Did you run the wires to the pump at that time, too?



I will run the wires to the pump and see if that cures it. The previous owner sent me a bunch of install and features attachments so I do not need those, but thanks anyway Jeff.



I don't know. I asked Chip the same question and he should reply tomorrow.



Thanks to you and everyone else.



Nick

 

[jrandol]

Originally posted by NPloysa

Hmmm.



You know what. I emailed the guy I bought it from and he mentioned that I may need the pump hooked up for the display to even read. Is that true?



I don't have the pump hooked up yet because I just wanted to use the guages for now but Jeff, like you said, maybe you can fool it by pushing all three buttons while starting it to bypass the diagnoses.



Jeff, I searched and found your post about running with the box up to Evergreen on I-70 and using the guages alone. Did you run the wires to the pump at that time, too?



I will run the wires to the pump and see if that cures it. The previous owner sent me a bunch of install and features attachments so I do not need those, but thanks anyway Jeff.



I don't know. I asked Chip the same question and he should reply tomorrow.



Thanks to you and everyone else.



Nick

I ran mine for a little while without the pump wire hooked up (waiting for the Pump Cover to come in) and mine would light up. If you started the truck even with the wire untapped it lit up, I dont remember the exact words but it said something like "pump wire tap undetectable" or something like that. Basically telling you, hey buddy the best wire isnt plugged in yet.

I could get my guages to work with an untapped wire by holding down all 3 buttons while the truck cycled and held them down until the normal startup lights on the box went off. From there on out the gauges would work until you turned the truck off. Nick try hooking up the sensor plugs and leave the pump wires untapped and see what you get. Obvisously the power wires need to be hooked up to. Maybe some smarter guys like TMTT that are running this box will jump in. Tool Man? Are you out there?

 

[NPloysa]

Thanks a lot Jeff. I wish you lived next door. Wouldn't the neighbors love us?



I keep thinking the display will come up as long as it has power. BUT I haven't had the time to drill and tap my pyro yet and need to order the MAP sensor adapter (triangle on 99-00). Maybe the box isn't recognizing any thing connected so it has nothing to display.



Too many variables.



Nick

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

EXACTLY No inputs = no outputs. When the key is turned on the FMS looks at the VP44 to run a "Pump Test" (Solonoid power) And that is its first order of buisness. If it doesen't see an input signal it will not continue its fuel delivery functions as it can't read RPM , VP44 Fueling Rate VERSUS Map and EGT Readings. I believe you can bypass that by taking out the fuse in the back of the box so it wont bother looking for the VP44 and will read all other functions as normal... . Just no fuel delivery.



Careful on the 99's as the VP44's Lunch themselves VERY easily as this is the earlier version of the VP44. Latter revisions are better suited ... but not immune. The FMS is a HOT box from the get go (HOT meaning she is an aggressive fueler and thus generates heat real quick) you will love it but you NEED to stack it with a Van Aken Box or an EZ to gain timing advancements to better the performance of fuel delivery. Adjustability is bar none that is for sure.



Have fun. ANd if you are getting the pump cover BE CAREFUL not to go to far with the piercing studs as a cracked PC board may result (Instructions are easy to understand and explain this if memory serves right.

 

[NPloysa]

Thanks Jeff and ToolMan, I appreciate it.



I will continue with installation and let you know how it goes.



Nick