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Ford Conversion

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Which transmission for the ford swap

Looks like I found my 12V

If the cummins engine is not included, what would be an approximate cost of a powerstroke to cummins conversion on a 96 model year truck? Keeping the 5spd from the powerstroke, and assuming no gear change. Ball park number?
 
My conversion cost a total of $6,000 for everything and I did the labor my self, except the drive line. This included the engine w/flywheel, starter, ect. , intercooler from a 99 ford, 3:55 gears, gauges, adaptor plate and engine kit from FordCummins, drive line shortened 3", exhaust and all the shipping. 24k later, it's still running great. Mine was a gasser, but the cost should be about the same and the powerstroke would be easier to do because you don't have to mess with the fuel tanks. You will need to do a throttle cable. For my tach, I used an Isspro 3 3/8 programmable gauge and isspro's sensor. Hope some of this helps.



Clayton
 
This is a parts only guess, and assuming you use what you can of the stock exhaust system.



Adapter $720

Water outlets $120

Motor Mounts $180

A/C & Alt brackets $200

Intercooler $175

Intercooler plumbing $100

BHAF & Plumbing $100

Exhaust pieces/parts $50

Misc. $500

Total: $2,145



AC and alt brackets can be easily fabbed if you are handy with a welder and drill press. Do this before putting the engine in the truck, makes alignment alot easier. If you are going to upgrade the clutch and/or flywheel you can add anywhere from $450 to $1200. New water outlets may be optional, just depends on the original application of the Cummins and your radiator outlet layout. $500 for misc is the very least I would figure in for a fudge factor. There are always unexpected expenses doing something like this. My truck was originally a 460 so I had a lot more expenses and work to do, but I did have a complete Ford diesel donor truck for fuel system components. You should also figure in about $200 to shorten the rear driveshaft and another $200 to lengthen the front shaft if you have a 4WD. transmission must be set back about 3".

Danny
 
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Thanks for the replies. How difficult is this swap? I have always wanted to do this but can't see tearing into a running vehicle just to put in a new motor I guess. I will have to do some more reading I guess. Thanks for the info.
 
TJarecke said:
How difficult is this swap?



If you have some fabricating skills and have changed a few engines before it's not that difficult, however it is time consuming. I had mine in and running after about 160 hours of labor.

Danny
 
Like DPinkston said, the swap isn't too bad if you can do some fabricating, otherwise you may get stuck on something. My brother helped me and we finished it in 4 1/2 days working on it from 9 to 9.
 
I think I could work it out. My brother is a welder, my buddy has a machine tool degree and a mechanical engineering degree with access to a mill, and our garage has a Mig, Tig, and stick welder, drill press, etc.

Can you use a cherry picker to take out and install an engine or do you need something bigger? And do any of you use an engine stand? Most of the pictures I see the engines are sitting on pallets.
 
When I did my motorhome I used a cherry picker. The Cummins engine weighs almost 1000lbs. The old Cummins engine I pulled weighed almost 2000lbs. Be careful and use bolts through the chain to lock it and make sure your chain is rated for the weight you are moving. I have a stand but for this job I went straight from the pallet to the engine compartment. I blocked the engine from below to the position that I wanted it to be in the motorhome. Then I fabricated the mounts to hold the engine in place. I had to build a custom crossmember and had the driveline custom built and balanced by a driveline shop.
 
Have you seen this? Probably have but I thought I'd throw it out there. If you plan an uping the hp on the new cummins then I'd find another trans. ZF-5s don't hold up real well from my experience. Find a wrecked truck with the cummins/nv4500 combo and throw it in there.
 
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