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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Ford Rims on a Dodge

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Pcm

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) No fuel pressure to #1 injector

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I've been chasing a shake in the rear of my 1996 Ram 3500 2WD. I had the rear brakes redone including drums,new shocks and still had a shake that would come and go at different speeds and on different road conditions. I gave up and took it to an alignment shop to have them balance everything on the rear. First he said that I had the wrong drums on it. Then he called and said it had the wrong wheels on it. The rims wouldn't fit over the drums properly. He claimed they are Ford rims. I managed to find 6 used rims but they look the same to me. Am I missing something here? My back is against the wall here. We're supposed to be hooking on to the fifth wheel camper to go camping for a week.....
 
I have been chasing a vibration that starts around 60 MPH and gets worse as the speed increases. My drive line was original. My carrier bearing was shot. I replaced all universal joints and carrier bearing on both front & rear axles (4-WD). That helped quite a bit but I still could feel it at times. I took it to a tire shop and had the tires balanced. It helped some more but not completely gone. I was running aftermarket aluminum wheels ( the chrome original ones rusted down years ago) and I knew I had and issue with at least one being hard to balance and my tires were about ready to be replaced. Since my wheels were about 17 yrs old and show a lot of wear I replace the wheels and tires. The vibration is now gone!

Ron
 
I have been chasing a vibration that starts around 60 MPH and gets worse as the speed increases. My drive line was original. My carrier bearing was shot. I replaced all universal joints and carrier bearing on both front & rear axles (4-WD). That helped quite a bit but I still could feel it at times. I took it to a tire shop and had the tires balanced. It helped some more but not completely gone. I was running aftermarket aluminum wheels ( the chrome original ones rusted down years ago) and I knew I had and issue with at least one being hard to balance and my tires were about ready to be replaced. Since my wheels were about 17 yrs old and show a lot of wear I replace the wheels and tires. The vibration is now gone!

Ron

I'm told that you should put steel on the inside and aluminum out the outside on the rear. I've considered that but really don't want to drop 1500$ right now....Here's another thought for your memory bank- I used to be a semi owner/operator and had a new set of Goodyear steer tires put on. I then left for the Pacific Northwest and the front end shook the whole way out and back. I went to the tire vendor and complained. They pulled both steers off and tried to re-balance them. One tire came up perfect every time. The other tire had a different reading on the machine every time he spun it out. They dismounted it, turned it over,changed the orientation on the rim and still no matter what, it came up different every time he spun it. It was like the tire had water in it or something. They pulled it off, mounted a new tire and it balanced out fine. The moral of the story - even new tires aren't perfect....
 
I'm told that you should put steel on the inside and aluminum out the outside on the rear. I've considered that but really don't want to drop 1500$ right now...
I have alcoas on mine and they look sharp but only downside is the tires have to be dismounted obviously in order to rotate them which I like to do once the fronts get rounded. I like to keep running the tires as long as I can as a complete set of six matches tires, a lot of guys including my pops will just swap out the steer tires.
 
The alignment shop is making progress. The wheels that were on there were Hayes aftermarket wheels and the center hub pilot hole was an 1/8" larger than the Dodge wheels that I sourced from a salvage yard. Everything is nice and round and balanced out nicely, however, there's still a bit of a shake in the rear. The next step is to put the old Brake drums back on and run it. They seem to think the new (Autozone) brake drums are the cause of the shake that is remaining. Stay tuned.....I'll give an update some time over the weekend....
 
The alignment shop is making progress. The wheels that were on there were Hayes aftermarket wheels and the center hub pilot hole was an 1/8" larger than the Dodge wheels that I sourced from a salvage yard. Everything is nice and round and balanced out nicely, however, there's still a bit of a shake in the rear. The next step is to put the old Brake drums back on and run it. They seem to think the new (Autozone) brake drums are the cause of the shake that is remaining. Stay tuned.....I'll give an update some time over the weekend....

It seems one of Autozone drums is out of balance by 35 oz ! We'll be sourcing different drums. Stay tuned.....
 
It seems one of Autozone drums is out of balance by 35 oz ! We'll be sourcing different drums. Stay tuned.....

Both drums were grossly out of balance. We put on a different set of new drums .The wheels that were on my truck were Hayes aftermarket wheels. I haven't figured out yet if they were supposed to fit or what. I have the part numbers and will be doing a bit of research. Hopefully, I can sell them to somebody and recoup some cash..... There's still a shake at the right rear when applying the brakes. The alignment shop assured me it was safe to use and they seem to think that possibly the hub face is distorted from having the wrong wheels on it. There wasn't one in town to be had anyway
 
I just went thru this on my 99 3500 dually, brand new Napa Rear Drums had no signs of being balanced (e.g. no weight added or machining to balance), nagging small vibration after the brake work. Fortunately I had held onto the original drums (which were Bosch and you could see where some metal had been machined off to balance them). Put these back on and it ran smooth. Fortunately Napa took the drums back and gave me a refund.
 
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