Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Hi everyone! I learned a lot in the course of installing my FP gauge recently, so I thought I would post what I learned and save someone else some headaches.
1) Do research thoroughly before you start. Because I wasn't as thorough as i should have been, I ended up using braided stainless line where a push-on socketless type would have been much easier and cheaper.
2) Braided Stainless is a PITA! Great once you get it done, but consider it a LAST RESORT. Most applications don't NEED braided line. I personally spent almost 2 days of free time just getting the ends on! I ended up chamfering the ends with a 3/4 inch countersink bit to get the hose in.
3) To cut braided stainless, I found that strapping tape and a Dremel worked the best-- nice clean cut with no fraying. Make sure you cut around the braided perimeter first, then cut through the line, instead of just going straight through. Enjoy the smell of hot rubber as you do.
4) Mechanical gauge seems to be the best bet for reliability in the long term. Electrics toss sending units regularly when strapped to the mighty Cummins for a rough ride.
5) Enterprise Engine is a great company! I installed their house brand 30PSI mechanical gauge (made by Hewitt) and I love it. I was real pleased with their service and feel I got great value for my money.
6) Use SEALANT on ALL NPT threads. Most of you know this, but it bears repeating.
7) If you use an isolator and need to replace the fluid, regular antifreeze will work (diluted) but doesn't flow well down the line. Mix up some water, a little bit of anti freeze, a good bit of rubbing alcohol, and a tiny drop of dishwashing liquid and you are set. This stuff is a lot thinner than the fluid that normally runs in the capillary tubing, so it's a lot easier to get the air out of the lines.
8) A coathanger can help you route stuff through the dash and behind trim. Getting a big -04AN line up is a LOT harder than regular capillary line (see #1).
9) Piercing some of the existing rubber grommets in the firewall makes a good place to route stuff from engine compartment to cab.
My setup is pretty simple. I took the core out of the Schrader on the VP44. I screwed on an adapter (from NAPA) that let me go to 1/8NPT female threads. Screwed a grease gun hose into that. Other end of grease gun hose goes to isolator (which is female 1/8NPT on both ends on the one that Enterprise supplies with their gauge). Braided stainless connects the isolator to the gauge. It's simple, but took more doing than I anticipated. Isn't that always the case?
I would only change one thing, and that would be to use socketless hose in place of the braided line. It's overkill to use braided on something that maxes out under 20PSI.
I fuel pressures are 15 idle, 12-13 cruise, and as low as 8 WFO, but I have to WORK to get it down around 8, and it doesn't want to stay there.
HTH
HOHN
1) Do research thoroughly before you start. Because I wasn't as thorough as i should have been, I ended up using braided stainless line where a push-on socketless type would have been much easier and cheaper.
2) Braided Stainless is a PITA! Great once you get it done, but consider it a LAST RESORT. Most applications don't NEED braided line. I personally spent almost 2 days of free time just getting the ends on! I ended up chamfering the ends with a 3/4 inch countersink bit to get the hose in.
3) To cut braided stainless, I found that strapping tape and a Dremel worked the best-- nice clean cut with no fraying. Make sure you cut around the braided perimeter first, then cut through the line, instead of just going straight through. Enjoy the smell of hot rubber as you do.
4) Mechanical gauge seems to be the best bet for reliability in the long term. Electrics toss sending units regularly when strapped to the mighty Cummins for a rough ride.
5) Enterprise Engine is a great company! I installed their house brand 30PSI mechanical gauge (made by Hewitt) and I love it. I was real pleased with their service and feel I got great value for my money.
6) Use SEALANT on ALL NPT threads. Most of you know this, but it bears repeating.
7) If you use an isolator and need to replace the fluid, regular antifreeze will work (diluted) but doesn't flow well down the line. Mix up some water, a little bit of anti freeze, a good bit of rubbing alcohol, and a tiny drop of dishwashing liquid and you are set. This stuff is a lot thinner than the fluid that normally runs in the capillary tubing, so it's a lot easier to get the air out of the lines.
8) A coathanger can help you route stuff through the dash and behind trim. Getting a big -04AN line up is a LOT harder than regular capillary line (see #1).
9) Piercing some of the existing rubber grommets in the firewall makes a good place to route stuff from engine compartment to cab.
My setup is pretty simple. I took the core out of the Schrader on the VP44. I screwed on an adapter (from NAPA) that let me go to 1/8NPT female threads. Screwed a grease gun hose into that. Other end of grease gun hose goes to isolator (which is female 1/8NPT on both ends on the one that Enterprise supplies with their gauge). Braided stainless connects the isolator to the gauge. It's simple, but took more doing than I anticipated. Isn't that always the case?
I would only change one thing, and that would be to use socketless hose in place of the braided line. It's overkill to use braided on something that maxes out under 20PSI.
I fuel pressures are 15 idle, 12-13 cruise, and as low as 8 WFO, but I have to WORK to get it down around 8, and it doesn't want to stay there.
HTH
HOHN
went to a mech gauge, and the first one had a kink in the capillary tube and it would not move. on to number four, take it out of the package and it has a restrictor in it
O well get out the drill and take care of that problem! finally got one that's working
