FP gauge without Isolator??

[R-N-R]

Is anybody using a DiPricol FP gauge without an isolator? If so, for how long?

 

[Jeff Clark]

I've been reamed for suggesting that a fuel pressure should not be used without an isolator, but I still stand by that. I guess there's really no other reason for an isolator other than safety, so if you don't want to use one, you don't really have to.

 

[scotty1]

Never used one. Got one with one gauge, set it on the shelf.



If your seals are good and you have a needle valve in place you will be fine.



I use Gasiola teflon paste for all fittings for the fuel pressure. I Just put a needle valve on my truck and had none on it for 50K.



I ran without one on my 01 Ram for all the time I owned it. Isolators can breakdown, lose shape etc. I know folks that use them but I never bothered. The diaphrams can stretch/distort and even break down with biodiesel. The bladder or diaphram if its natural rubber will swell up and breakdown using biodiesel.



Never had a leak in cab either.



I prefer getting as accurate of a reading as possible.



Scotty

 

[R-N-R]

I've used Hewitt Industry FP gauges without isolators for the past two years. I had to replace one within a few months after installation. The other gauge started leaking out the front, but I think that is from me over tighting the mount. Right around this time, I also noticed a chip in my pillar mount by that gauge. I just shut off the needle valve for the time being since I still had the post filter gauge working. The gauge that was replaced early on just went out with the needle hanging in a funny position.



So, I just ordered a new pillar mount and 2 DiPricol FP gauges without isolators. The price of a package set was more than I wanted to spend, especially since I tossed my original pair of isolators out.

However, I've heard that the cylinder style (like the ones I tossed) are better than the pancake style, and they are resonably priced. Any opinions on those notes? I have also recently heard that, straight from DiPricol, an isolator should always be used because diesel is really hard on the internal parts of the gauge. Litigation safety net or intended use product development?



Thanks for your input, I appreciate the responses

 

[jabird]

Had a friend of mine who didnt like the readings he got with an isolator inline, so he didnt run one. He also used braided steel fuel line from the vp-44 to the guage in the cab. When he hit that really big pothole and the line feeding the guage moved across the battery terminals and shorted out, that burned a hole in the line which dumped fuel all over the engine compartement. He said it was a really good fire that burned hotter than one would have thought. After all the paper work was done from the insurance company totaling the truck from the fire, they dropped him, and wont cover him anymore. Not meant to flame anyone... do what ever you like... . just dont think its worth it myself. And i have fuel pressure guage/isolator issues myself right now

 

[R-N-R]

I'm too cheap to buy braided plumbing :-laf



jabird, what kind of issues are you having?

 

[KYLE4]

I have had zero problems using the Bellofram isolator it is industrial grade and should last forever. Also it clearly states that if you run fuel into your Di procol fuel pressure guage the warranty is voided. Can diesel ruin the inside of guage probably. On a 40k dollar truck why would roll the dice over a 65. 00 dollar part. I have done comparisons myself with my guage and and a test guage hooked up to schraeder valve on VP my isolator equipped guage works perfectly in my truck.

 

[RobertMiller1]

line

If you do this, you MUST get a needle valve.



I got my stainless braided line complete with npt connectors, from Ace hardware. fancy overkill ice maker line. About 5 or 6 feet as I recall. about $15. great deal. I also used a needle valve which is shut but not tighted at all, so it basically "leaks" just enough pressure to operate the gauge, once the line is filled. Also smooths out pulses. If it were to leak, it would only be a slight amount before I smelled it. I also used black plastic wire loom to cover the entire route of the braided line so it would not chafe others or short against anything.



Do not use teflon tape on any npt that plumbs petroleum lubricants or fuel.

 

[R-N-R]

I have had zero problems using the Bellofram isolator it is industrial grade and should last forever. Also it clearly states that if you run fuel into your Di procol fuel pressure guage the warranty is voided. Can diesel ruin the inside of guage probably. On a 40k dollar truck why would roll the dice over a 65. 00 dollar part. I have done comparisons myself with my guage and and a test guage hooked up to schraeder valve on VP my isolator equipped guage works perfectly in my truck.

I have two FP gauges so the price doubles, I am still "sore" from replacing the VP and ECM within the past six weeks and also have a turbo upgrade coming up in the next six weeks. So, practicing fiscal responsibility is appropriate for me right now. The isolators seemed like a PITA to install (rookie) the first time so I skipped them. The Hewitt gauges were also at least supposedly rated for use with diesel. I tossed the original isolators after shuffling them around my toolbox for a year. Stupid move, live and learn I suppose... There is a reason I asked about this, even though the needle valves shut down the flow in a jiffy and my experience so far has been seepage not spray. However it's not the $40k truck I am concerned about, it is the $70 in gauges that I don't really want to replace every two years, or more.

 

[strokerschmoker]

No isolator here for a few reasons: If the diesel fuel does break the gauge over time im out like 30 bucks. I can afford to buy a couple of these before that price exceeds the isolator cost. If the isolator does fail, i dont want that 50/50 antifrezze mix going through my motor. As stated before you must use a needle valve when doing it this way. Mine has been flawless now for about 6 months.

 

[john3976]

No isolator here for a few reasons: If the diesel fuel does break the gauge over time im out like 30 bucks. I can afford to buy a couple of these before that price exceeds the isolator cost. If the isolator does fail, i dont want that 50/50 antifrezze mix going through my motor. As stated before you must use a needle valve when doing it this way. Mine has been flawless now for about 6 months.

You won't have 50/50 antifreeze mix going into the engine, but you could have a fuel leak in the engine bay, the pressure of the pump is pushing fuel towards the gauge not pulling towards the pump. But a leak in the engine bay is far better than a leak inside the cab.



Second you don't need a needle valve on an 2005, I have a DiPricol gauge along with the isolator and NO needle valve, the fuel pressure gauge needle is rock solid and does not pulse or vibrate at all, it moves very smooth.



I get 9 LBS pressure at idle and when driving steady I am at 8 to 8 1/2 LBS. If I get on it hard the pressure will drop down to about 5 pounds at the most.

 

[Graphic man]

I run a autometer F/P gage with a braided line for a year now and no problems,

i mounted it in a cup on the side of my pillar so i can keep an eye on it incase of any leaks,

i tapped the banjo fitting on the bottom of the fuel filter and put in a shut off valve just incase it does leak

IMO a direct reading gage is the best way to go

i have run direct reading oil pressure gages F/P gages in cars for years and never had a problem.

 

[Mark Craig]

Rock-N-Rammer,



The manufacturers of any brand gauge will void the warranty if they smell any type of fuel in the gauge, the fuel pressure gauge from DiPricol isn't very expensive but still you have the safety factor as well as you will never get the diesel smell out of the truck should you ever have a leak. The isolators we use are the flat style, the cylinder types caused us so many returns it was crazy. They use a flurourelastomer (sp) material so they are diesel fuel safe etc. Heck they are less than 80. 00 at retail so they aren't that expensive.



Mark @ DPPI

 

[RHARVEY]

I wonder if they ever used isolators on the mach. oil pressure gauges???? You take your time and route the lines and seal things up nice... they wont leak! My customers have not come back due to leaking fuel pressure lines! But I do install a needle valve under the hood to keep the pulsation of the lp from killing the gauge.

No drips, No runs, No errors!



Rick

P. S. I have a couple of DD fuel isolators taking up space in my tool box. .

 

[Graphic man]

Autometer makes gages that are fuel safe and are direct reading gages, so there is no need for an isolator,

not sure about the DiPricol gages

 

[RobertMiller1]

You can have anti-freeze go though your VP44. all it takes is a crack in the isolator diaphram and where do you think that anti-freeze is going to gravity drain to when the engine is shut off. Right through the VP44. I don't like it's lubriciating potential. It is why I would never use anti-freeze in the gauge section of my line in a diesel. Gas engines would never notice it. If I were to use an isolator, I would use a thin silicon oil of some type...

 

[JStieger]

On my '03 I'm using an isolator. I originally had a DiPricol gauge and the instructions that came with the gauge said if mounting inside the cab, then an isolator is required. That being said if my isolator ever goes TU, then I will direct plumb into the cab. I recently switched to the ISSPRO EV gauge, but am still using a DiPricol isolator with a needle valve and stainless braided line. I have the install documented in my Reader's Rig gallery if interested.

 

[RHARVEY]

One thing I did not mention is the fact that I dont put the fp gauge in the A-pillar mount. It goes just above the left edge of the trans tunnel under the dash. Its still in open site and easy to get to if needed.

Most if not all the trucks I do want a trans temp gauge so it goes on the A-pillar with the pyro and boost.



Rick

 

[Rman]

You won't have 50/50 antifreeze mix going into the engine, but you could have a fuel leak in the engine bay, the pressure of the pump is pushing fuel towards the gauge not pulling towards the pump. But a leak in the engine bay is far better than a leak inside the cab.



Second you don't need a needle valve on an 2005, I have a DiPricol gauge along with the isolator and NO needle valve, the fuel pressure gauge needle is rock solid and does not pulse or vibrate at all, it moves very smooth.



I get 9 LBS pressure at idle and when driving steady I am at 8 to 8 1/2 LBS. If I get on it hard the pressure will drop down to about 5 pounds at the most.

Where's all that fuel go when you turn the key off? It drains back into the fuel bowl of the filter... . so I don't see it that inconceivable for the anti freeze to get into the fuel system.



For the record I don't use an isolator but it's not because of anti-freeze, I think it's an unnecessary added cost to the project.

 

[DieselMinded]

To all who think isolators are expensive... . THERE NOT. .



I bought all my gauges from Mark Craig @ DPP, But there pancake isolater was pretty expensive ..... probly as cheap as anywhere else but I still think its too pricy for an isolator.



EEP has the Clynder type for $32 Thats right $32 as cheap as the FP gauge so the reasoning of Ill just get a new gauge when mine dies is right out the window . . I have about 20,000 miles on mine with 15+ #'3s threw it and I have never had any trouble at all... I would say the failure rate cant differ alot from the pankcake stlye ... but Im not a professional.



Here is a small guide I made explaining the Fp gauge and the Isolator a little



http://www.3d.otisnet.net/toppage3.htm



Just Click on the - Preperation Guide



Why Isolate ... . For One it ,,,,,, Antifrezze Wont trash your gauge internals for TWo I had a leak after install and YES the Antifrezze was sticky but I could only imagine how nasty Diesel Would of been running down the inside of my piller .



Hopefully this clears it up.



DM