FP gauge without Isolator??

[john3976]

Where's all that fuel go when you turn the key off? It drains back into the fuel bowl of the filter... . so I don't see it that inconceivable for the anti freeze to get into the fuel system.



For the record I don't use an isolator but it's not because of anti-freeze, I think it's an unnecessary added cost to the project.

Lets say for sake of arguing that the antifreeze could drain back to the pump, big deal, for the little amount of antifreeze that is in the isolator it is not going to hurt anything.



I would rather error on the side of safety by keeping raw diesel fuel outside of the cab rather then plumbing right into the cab, I would also not use just any steel braided line, I would order steel braided line that is fuel safe.

 

[Matt400]

Why bother with any of that stuff, seems allot more easy to use a transducer at the source and then run electrical into the cab.

 

[R-N-R]

I couldn't wait. Even though I have been checking the FP randomly, driving blind was too uncomfortable, especially with being back up to full power. I've ran the last 2 years without isolators or calamity, other than one gauge breaking. The other gauge leaked because of my original installation oops. Isolators are logical... . maybe next time :-laf

 

[Rman]

Lets say for sake of arguing that the antifreeze could drain back to the pump, big deal, for the little amount of antifreeze that is in the isolator it is not going to hurt anything.



I would rather error on the side of safety by keeping raw diesel fuel outside of the cab rather then plumbing right into the cab, I would also not use just any steel braided line, I would order steel braided line that is fuel safe.

I feel a whole lot better now that you think it's not going to hurt anything.

 

[bgilbert]

FWIW, you can run any mechanical pressure gauge to check or monitor fuel pressure. . Got an old 30psi boost gauge laying around after you upgraded to a 60psi? Also, do not run live fuel to gauge if you have a mechanical lift pump. The pulses from the LP will kill it in short time. I killed an Isspro fuel pressure gauge in about 500 miles, installed my old Isspro 30psi boost gauge, it actually lasted 3x as long as the FP gauge. But its dead now too LOL.

 

[RHARVEY]

Inline needle valve turn down will keep the pulsation of the lp from killing the gauge. .





Rick

 

[Rman]

I have both an inline needle to shut the fuel off in the unfortunate event of a leak, and a snubber from chemequip to snub out the pulses. Been like this for over a year now. My brothers for 3 yrs and 150k miles.

 

[smillertx]

Where can I get a needle valve? Thanks.

 

[R-N-R]

Welcome to TDR!!!



I found mine at Lowes, I suppose any large hardware store will have it. Or, you can find it online like these from Grainger.





Bill

 

[GIT-R-DONE]

Myself, I ran direct to the gauge. I did however put on a shut off valve out under the firewall, in case I ever had a leak in the cab. I tried two different isolators and each one read different. Got rid of the isolators and never had a problem with it after that.

 

[nickleinonen]

Where can I get a needle valve? Thanks.

Welcome to TDR!!!



I found mine at Lowes, I suppose any large hardware store will have it. Or, you can find it online like these from Grainger.





Bill

another good online source is mcmaster carr. they got all kinds of good stuff

 

[rweis]

A really good plumbing supply outlet has them as well.



When you get it in series with the gauge only turn on the needle valve enough to get the gauge to register. The gauge may be sluggish until the pressures on each side fo the needle valve equalize in a couple of seconds, but you know with the initial sluggishness that the pressure is restricted as you want it to be. If the gauge comes up instantly you probably have the needle valve open too much.



Bob Weis

 

[lmills]

To all who think isolators are expensive... . THERE NOT. .



I bought all my gauges from Mark Craig @ DPP, But there pancake isolater was pretty expensive ..... probly as cheap as anywhere else but I still think its too pricy for an isolator.



EEP has the Clynder type for $32 Thats right $32 as cheap as the FP gauge so the reasoning of Ill just get a new gauge when mine dies is right out the window . . I have about 20,000 miles on mine with 15+ #'3s threw it and I have never had any trouble at all... I would say the failure rate cant differ alot from the pankcake stlye ... but Im not a professional.



Here is a small guide I made explaining the Fp gauge and the Isolator a little



http://www.3d.otisnet.net/toppage3.htm



Just Click on the - Preperation Guide



Why Isolate ... . For One it ,,,,,, Antifrezze Wont trash your gauge internals for TWo I had a leak after install and YES the Antifrezze was sticky but I could only imagine how nasty Diesel Would of been running down the inside of my piller .



Hopefully this clears it up.



DM

For what its worth, I have been through three of the EEP isolators in the past 1-1/2 years. I finally got tired of replacing them and elimnated them all together for now. I might go back to an isolator, but I can guarantee you it won't be that one.

 

[nickleinonen]

when i finally get around to putting on a fuel pressure gauge on my truck, if i can find it, i am going to run a winters #70 diaphragm seal with a viton rubber diaphragm. . i think it is going to be an expensive [& impressive at 2" tall x 3. 4" diam] piece, but totally rebuildable [and my work buys lots of winters stuff, so maybe i can swing a discount for myself???]



winters #70 diaphragm seal

[URL=https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=as_li_ss_tl?url=search-alias=automotive&field-keywords=gauge+Isolator+&linkCode=ll2&tag=|gauge Isolator]#ad

 

[Junior]

Kyle4

Kyle trying to get a hold of you ck your PM.

 

[Mark Craig]

Junior,



I think Kyle and his business are gone now, FYI.



Mark @ DPPI