Frantz Oil Filter

[Power Wagon]

I picked up a new frantz oil filter today. I say "new" very tounge in cheek, since from the appearance of the box it was actually new sometime around the mid 1970's, well, that's my guess, anyway. It's still sealed in the original box... I guess I should have taken a picture of it, but it's so faded it won't come out well.



For those of you who have installed one, where did you hook it up, what fittings does it take? How does it return the oil?



Thanks

Mark

 

[Todd G]

I got my oil pickup from the top of the filter housing and routed the drain to a hole I drilled and tapped in the first valve cover

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[PRout]

I also used the plugged hole in the top of the oil filter mount for the supply.



Mounted the filter by the battery & alternator. The return line went to the oilpan. Used the self tapping fitting to tap the pan. Located it on the pan per those OLD but instructions. Ended up having to use a drill to drill the pan (very carefully), since its too heavy for the self tapper fitting to cut through.



I sorta wish I had removed & tapped the valve cover for the return also. It would be nice to have it right under the fill cap, so if you wanted, you could visually verify the return flow rate by taking the cap off & looking in. dont know how much oil would come out the filler hole though.



Either way, just make sure you get the paper in good & snug in the housing. I found if you get lazy & dont get it compressed in there, the oil can channel through the filter making a passageway all the way through. If its snug, that doesnt happen.



I found an old coffee can that fits the filter perfect to use as a tool to seat the paper in good & tight, makes it ALOT easier. Just get he paper in far enough to get the retaining ring in, then seat it down w/ the can (ring & all).



It adds a quart of oil to the system. Found you need to change it about every 2k miles to keep the oil looking cleaner.



Hope that helps. Good luck.

 

[RKohn]

I drilled a hole in the top of my filler cap for the return. That way if I ever take it off I don't have to worry about plugging a hole, I just put on a new cap. I took pics, but I blew up the pooter last week and I haven't got it all reloaded yet. Oo.

 

[Power Wagon]

What thread is it on the top of the oil filter housing on the engine?



1/8 pipe or ???

 

[Todd G]

I'm almost sure it's 1/8" pipe thread.

 

[The patriot]

I did mine on the oil fill cap. It was 1/8" NPT. I got a new camera I want to try out, time permitting, I'll see if I can post some pics tomorrow before work.



BTW, I had a slight leak on the fill cap, so I bought a die and ran the threads down about 1" so that it's deeper in the fill cap line. No problem now.

Eric



PS For those of you that have been running these, what brand TP are you using? I changed mine last week, and the roll was very long. It developed a leak at the band clamp. I found it right away, but it was a real PITA to get the housing to close.

 

[paccool]

Mark, I have an Amsoil bypass but the hookup should be the same. I removed the oil pressure sending unit and installed a tee into the block. Put the sending unit back in one port and feed to the filter in the other one. Mounted the filter off an aluminum bracket I made to fit the upper radiator mount on the driver side next to the battery. Took a return line back into the side of the filler tube about 2" down from the top. Drilled and tapped for 1/8" pipe thread and installed a barbed connector. When I installed the connector into the tube, I used JB Weld on the threads and around the outside of the fitting to make sure it would stay in place.



I wanted to see the flow like shortshift said and you can pull the cap and see the flow. Oil doesn't spray out ,it sorta dribbles in a very small stream out of the return line. Not sure what the Franz will do but you don't want too much oil going through it or you may starve something out in the engine. The hole in the Amsoil bypass is really small, like a 1/32" diameter or so. Can't find the paper work right now, know it's here somewhere.



Hope this helps you some.

 

[xbubblehead]

I installed an Oilguard bypass filter. I used the plugged hole on the top of the filter mount as the source (1/8 NPT I believe) but returned mine differently. I routed mine directly back to the oil pan without having to tap the pan (I didn't wish to tap the valve cover either). I have a Walker Airsep which drains back to the oil pan by connecting into the line where the turbo drains. They do this by providing a modified tube insert that replaces the insert that slides into the block just above the oil pan (passenger side of the engine). This modified insert allows the turbo drain and a 1/4 NPT fitting to be connected. I specifically asked the Walker Airsep people if they would be willing to sell the modified tube inserts seperately and at that time I was told "Yes". I think they said it would be about $20. This is probably not the cheapest method, but it is a way to return the bypass filter oil without having to drill/tap either the valve cover or the oil pan (it's working well for me). Plus, you could always return it to the original condition if desired.

 

[The patriot]

I got the pictures, but I cant figure out how to post them.

Eric

 

[PRout]

Originally posted by xbubblehead

I have a Walker Airsep which drains back to the oil pan by connecting into the line where the turbo drains. They do this by providing a modified tube insert that replaces the insert that slides into the block just above the oil pan (passenger side of the engine). This modified insert allows the turbo drain and a 1/4 NPT fitting to be connected. I specifically asked the Walker Airsep people if they would be willing to sell the modified tube inserts seperately and at that time I was told "Yes". I think they said it would be about $20.

Wish I knew that before I added the oil pan fitting. Thats a great idea.



Also, the paper I had the best luck with was like others have said, the commercial rolls that are tightly wound & almost hard as a rock work well. I lost my source on that kind, and found the Scott single ply (hard rolls) seem to work pretty good. I jam 'em im really tight, sometimes end up getting them stuck because theyre too tight & cant get em down in all the way, and have to fight to get em back out. IMO the tighter, the better. After they've been in there awhile & soaked w/ oil, they come out w/ no problem.

 

[redneckdr]

fitting in the top of the oil filter

power wagon, it is 1/8" NPT. that's where i put my pressure switch for my DRL.

 

[egrout]

Want to add the Frantz TP filter to my truck. Where can I get the older one. And what is the diferance , new vs old style.

 

[The patriot]

egrout:

A member named Barry sells them. Theyre new, just they've been in the box about 20 years.

 

[Barry]

Patriot: Thanx for the referal but I think I have sold myself out of biz. I have orders for 4 units and I am counting to make sure I have one left for my truck! There is another thread running right now and there is a website address for "wefilterit" and I also gave a phone # for Debra Walker Haley who is George Walker's daughter. She, like her father is determined to keep the Frantz Filter alive. Thanx for the bizzz... ... .....

 

[PRout]

Oh bummer! Sold out already?



Hey good for you Barry. I ended up w/ 3 of yours & they went to good homes & are working perfect.



I was just going to send you an email asking if you had any of the double roll filters left. Had a plan for one. If you might know where one is, Id be interested.



Thanks for the great service.

 

[xbubblehead]

Reply to Radar Doctor

To return the oil from my bypass filter I used a modified Oil Drain Assembly that I got from the Walker AirSep people. Here's a link: http://www.walkerairsep.com. The phone # should be at the top right of the web page. If you click on Walker Airsep for Turbo Diesel Trucks you'll see a diagram at the bottom which shows the Oil Drain Assembly, although I don't think that diagram accurately shows the 1/8 NPT fitting that they've added. The old one was a pain to remove and the new Oil Drain Assembly needed to have the OD reduced a bit with emory cloth before I could get it to slide in.



When I worked with the Walker Engineering people last summer, they told me they would sell the modified drain tubes seperately for about $20. I presume they would still do it.



I've found that my bypass filter, an oilguard unit (www.oilguard.com) is much less effective now that I'm driving mostly short trips. The lines and filter don't heat up enough to get any appreciable flow. If I take a long trip, then I see a noticable improvement in the oil. I made a PDF file (with pictures) of my Oilguard bypass filter installation if you're interested.



As for the Xbubblehead name, I spent 10 years in the Navy's submarine force and for some reason other parts of the Navy call submariners "bubbleheads", so that's how I picked the name.

 

[Balzac]

I have used the Frantz filters since mid sixties, still have one on my 87 N. Yorker.

When replacing roll, size roll slightly larger than housing, bang end on knee to cone shape, place roll remover in hollow end, start into housing, push only on edges until seated then push in middle. Very important to use single ply and the commercial rolls are the only ones tightly wound. Sizing means adding or removing wraps to fit. The double roll unit would be the right size for the oil quantity of the 5. 9. haven't had time to mount mine, have a single and double, both new from Barry.

On my previous gas engines, changed roll 2000Miles and full flow once a year and never changed oil. put on up to 45,000 miles(62 Imperaia 413CI and oil was still clean. Would still change oil in the Cummins unless it stayed clear.